junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Ah, That makes sense to now with the timing. Earlier I said I was surprised it would handle that much timing, but now I see why because the bin vs dizzy base was off by 5+8 = 13 degrees so your 23 degrees total was really 10 degrees.

I agree with the need of IAT cooling above 10psi. Not a bad night at the track, just a few little things to sort out.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I still had fun. Gotta find out the issues at the track since my butt dyno dont work on cars like this

After fixing timing, it does still seem to do ok with my timing table. I'm seeing some pulled at downshift but it tapers away over time during the pull. Possibly too much down low so i pulled 2-3 deg between 2400-3600

The meth is helping some too even with 50:50 mix

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I always see retard at the shift on $59 with the stock knock sensor, tapers off just like you described then shows back up on the next shift. I pulled almost all of the timing out and it still did it so I assume it's picking up some other mechanical noise

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Even my stock 305 axxb bin was seeing knock retard. I went down to 20 deg at wot and did not remove it so i turned knock off

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Well car still feels slow. Gutted cat and it didnt help anything if in fact made spool alittle slower. Air fuel was dialed in from mid 12's to mid 11's and no big change

Going to look into the distributor and plug wires. I think it was arcing before so likely getting weak ignition so perhaps not all cylinders are firing? We shall see.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

The small cam 305ci is just kind of a turd. Look at the specs on that A4 cam.
At 10 PSI, I would expect 200*((10+14.7)/14.7) = 340 crank hp.

It needs a cam minimum. Something in the 204 to 212 duration range.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

It should have the L98 cam but feeling how this car runs i am beginning to question that. All my research says all 91-92 305 tpi cars got the L98 cam

Regardless i dont think its blowing out spark or lack of spark energy. I replaced wires with my old 8mm set and car felt alittle better but hard to say. It runs clean thru boost but just doesnt have the ***** i thought it would assuming 175-180 whp stock from some dyno threads here i seen.

Figured 300 whp on 10-12 psi? That should run low 13's at 108 with this crap 2.1 60 ft

355tpipickup

iTrader: (5)

I have a 212-218 .500ish 110 cam for sale. Stick that in there!!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

To behonest i am considering that. I really wanted a 218-224 but the 212 may be better suited. But i thought yours was a retrofit roller.

RS Chris

You have the peanut cam (L03) rated at 195 hp. All auto Z28's got that cam, the 5spd cars got the L98 cam. That would definitely be the next place to look for power.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I would have to pull a cover and try to measure lift but everything i read says 91-92 no longer had peanut cams in the z28's. Regardless of transmission. Where did you find the information?

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

That's what I have heard too. If you do pull the cam and measure it could you post the results here? From what I've heard there were no peanut cam's in the '91-'92 LB9's. Power differences were supposed to be in the exhaust difference between the N10 dual cat cars vs. the single cat cars. It would be cool to get a definitive answer on this without asking all the guys with LB9's to pull the cam out and measure them lol.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I'll see what i can do. Regardless it seems to run more like a peanut cam car than what i expected a l98 cam to run with decent boost

Ofcourse motor could be hurting some from 130k miles of time

RS Chris

From here.


List every year Camaro and options. It says for that car and that year with auto was 195 hp. 5 spd would have been 230 hp. I haven't searched elsewhere and I'm not preaching it as the gospel, just the info I have.

The Tech. Data section on here has is listed as this:

91 Z28 M5,A4 LB9 V8 9.3:1 5.0 (305) 205@4200 285@3200 TPI.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Hmm. I'll check my 91 owners manual if it has info. I saw a thread here on this forum discussing the speed density cars and stated the exhaust is only difference

tmellott89

Any updates or more track time slips?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Nope. Been daily driving. Waiting to buy another wideband for it. Gotta tighten plug gap then i can test it.
Refocusing on my black car now. Weather is cooler now so going to start running that car this weekend.

Looking into rebuilding my spare 305 and making that swap next spring or over winter with a bigger cam. We shall see. It also needs a torque converter lol

tmellott89

Ahh i see. yeah i can imagine why you would want to worry about the black car. Pennsylvania racing weather is about to start.You think shell have some more in her with the weather coming? Mabey pick up 3-5 tenths? id love to see a low 8 run.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thats the plan. Low 8's and 170 mph. It should go lol

Did put a cheap boost gauge in the blue car. Summit had sunpro gauge on sale for 10$ lol its basic but works great

tmellott89

Hence the thread name turbo on a budget haha. i did alot of reading through google and other websites, i never found a real good complete answer on the rear mounts. but there are deffinetly some cars out there putting some serious numbers down just like front mounts...Yellow bullet .com has alot of info on anything.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Its not popular since front mounts are easier to do if you arent concerned with keeping car stock looking or dont need emissions or ac and all that stuff

But they work fine. My car spools decent and makes boost just doesnt make power yet and its likely due to a few little things like ignition, plug gap, an old motor, mild cam, etc.

I'll be upgrading this over time. Hope to see some respectable times before end of year

Mirror Image

iTrader: (2)

Nice

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I gotta find time to get back into this car. Still gotta regap plugs and see what happened to my oil pump. Drove in rain and relay fried because i didnt install an fuse on the power supply. I forgot

So rewired but battery is dead so charged up last night. Hope to see if it all works again and i hope i didnt mess up the oil pump.

Johnstonxj

I just read through all of this. Awesome job. I also see you're from Pittsburgh. I'm from around there as well. Latrobe. I was wondering if you plan on taking this bad boy to any meets next season coming. I'd love to see it in person and maybe get some pointers for my t/a.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Actually planned on taking it out to racetrack tomorrow.

I tightened up plug gap and deleted cat with a straight pipe and it feels strong but we'll see

Johnstonxj

Awesome. Probably putting my car away tomorrow. What track do you take it to?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Closest one lol pittsburgh raceway

Johnstonxj

Haha figured. Never know about beaver run. My brother works at PRP and I have some buddies that go out there every once and a while. Hopefully you get a good run.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Went 13.47 at 110 mph first pass on 10 psi boost. Ran a few more 13.49-13.59 runs but would not go faster than that on more boost. Gotta figure out why lol my guess ignition. Needs a converter and ignition box my guess

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Fyi another good oil pump to try that is half the cost is tilton 40-527. Hearing some good reviews on it

I am swapping to a .68 ar turbine housing instead of the .96 thats on it now in hopes to make it alittle more fun and responsive on street. Lack of torque converter and no exhaust wrap makes it alittle laggy unless you get a wot downshift. So i have .68 housings from my last build laying around i'll try first. That way i dont spend 30$ in wrap to try improve heat retention

Trying to borrow a msd 6a box to see if ignition improves. All goes well and weather stays nice may try to race again this weekend

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

I think you will find the .68 more responsive.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I am just worried the tranny wont like it haha

I get 5-6 psi in top of first. Now may get full 10 early lol

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Haha yeah . It will definitely come in early .

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Well put the .68 housing on, cleaned up dizzy cap, and installed msd 6al box.

Made no difference so not sure whats up.



Slip on right was 11 psi. Slip on left was 20! Lol no difference really. Maybe blowing thru converter but trans shifted fine. 5100 rpm drop to 3800 ish. Twice. So if it was converter i thought it be alot higher rpm.

Oh well. Also had some coolant drip out of the heater core onto the passenger foot well carpet so thats not good lol may be pressurizing the system. Tired old 305

86CamaroDan

If you use a ratcheting philips bit you can have that bitch out in 20 min. And thats weird Would have thought atleast your 60 foot would have atleast picked up a little

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Summit sent me the wrong distributor cap but i doubt it will solve my problems. I thought maybe cap was bad since it shocked me when setting timing, on stock plug wires. Figured wires were bad. New wires didnt seem to change how car ran but i didnt test for arcing around cap again

May try a hotter than stock coil but i figured the msd 6al would have overcame the stock ignition power and should have seen better results. No dice so far.

I dont think converter cuz i had shifts and blowing thru should act like its flatlining rpm. Or showing little drop on shifts. Does seem to show near 10% slip on top end tho

Only thing else is valve float. Perhaps it cant hold valves shut but its only a 5000 rpm motor lol seems strange to me if it was valve float. Rpm pull was alittle unsmooth however

Now i gotta decide if i should dump money into more igntion stuff, converter and possibly rebuild heads to pick up the power.....or look into a 4.8 swap haha

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

With that auto cam I would only rev to 4800 rpm.
Looks like 11 psi is right on the money with the ET: 5.825*[(195*.85)/3600)^(1/3)] = 13.49 sec

I would have stuck with the .96 A/R housing. Especially if going higher than 12 PSI.
The thing holding it back is the cam and exhaust pressure. Put a 208 to 218 duration cam in it and the bigger housing on it and get into the low 12s.
That 305 ain't that tired.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

5100 is where it shifts. I dont think 4800 would have made any difference

I also dont think cam is a problem as all my research seems to show 91-92's got the L98 cam. Boost should make power but clearly does not and doesnt respond to ignition. I dont think exhaust pressure is that bad but i would have to measure. Car does get blowby and now cooling system is getting pressurized. I am thinking valvesprings.

Its much more responsive with the small housing tho on street which is more fun

If i get a converter i'll go back to the .96. But now i gotta decide if i am gonna tear it down/rebuild my spare motor, or cut my losses and go 4.8. I can get one for same price as machine work to clean the block and heads. Actually cheaper. Rebuild 305 likely will need decked and bored. New pistons. Not sure its worth it.

I got to upgrade a good bit of stuff on the other car to try for a 7.99 next yr. not sure what i will do

Probably need to refresh the motor, and def upgrade valvesprings

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

et is bad because of leaving off boost and no converter lol weak all motor. The mph is what matches my previous predictions

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Maybe it does have the bigger cam. What is the tach yellow/red line rpms?
Pressure in coolant system would lead me to think blown head gasket.

I would go with the 4.8 if you are considering it as an option. Best bang for the buck. The 305 is fun to play with but not worth putting any money into. Rebuild heads for one........nah, go 4.8.

If ya go in to upgrade springs, might as well measure the lift.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Its blowing coolant out of the heater core under boost now lol

I wont do springs with heads on car. Bare minimum i'll have to do head gaskets and clean up the heads, install a mild cam. Thats all i think i will do.

4.8 or 5.3 i will want to remain rear mount but need to maintain ac system. Will have to look into that

Already have hp tuners and a harness to integrate into stock system. Should be easy swap. Only problem is ac system, not sure how it all goes together in a stock thirdgen system. Good thing its already Converted to r134

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Ah, the ol coolant outta the heater core. Been there before...replaced it and never hooked it back up again.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Only does it on boost so not sure if that just means stop boosting and it will be ok, or if the core is on its way out

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

I would think the core is on its way out. Did you check the hose clamps at the firewall where the core comes out of?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Nope. I will look but i do not wanna have to replace the core

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

yeah I have done mine twice in the 14 yrs that i've had it.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Lol havent had to do my other car but i only had it connected from 03 to 08 and since then i deleted it. Maybe i can take that one and put it in this car

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

core is kaput. i did the one on my cutlass years ago and it wasnt bad. no idea how bad it would be on a turd gen though.

thewizard

iTrader: (43)

It's not bad. I would just buy a new one though; only $30.