dellman83Z

iTrader: (9)

So I'm at a crossroads with the direction I want to go. Currently have a fully forged 383 with a now wrecked novi 2000. The combo made 645 rwhp through a loose stalled 4l80e and 9". At this point the novi is maxed out and sure don't want to push the stock block any further. I am getting a f1a-94 pro charger as the novis replacent which opens the door to more power. My motor now I have so much money into already it would be sad to change. Dart aluminum heads efi connections conversion full roller and I'm sure a few other things. What I'm torn on is if I just want to spend even more money on a dart little m block and just swap everything over and good to probably 1,100ish fwhp or swap over to a fully forged lq4. I already have the complete motor as well as ls3 top end which would certainly have the potential of the same power. Going this direction may be a bit cheaper in the end after selling my current motor. Mainly just curious on what others opinions are on this.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

What is your goal?

Track car? Fast street car? Timebomb?

-- Joe

dellman83Z

iTrader: (9)

Looking to get around 1k fwhp. That's all the trans and rear will handle. Mostly a street car with some track and autocross. I do drive it quite a bit. This motor has 25k on it that I built a four years ago.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Is the 383 you have a stock block?

I don't know anyone with a stock GM block making 1,000hp that has survived more than a few chest pounding passes or a dyno day.

Even the SHP blocks are only rated at 500hp from the manufacturer, and while we've had a few members push them quite a bit past that those combos also exploded eventually.

When I asked about your goal I was trying to get an idea if you were trying to target a specific ET, just wanted a fast street car, etc. If your goal is simply to make 1,000hp and be able to put that on your signature, well your new head unit should do it. I think it will blow up eventually.

If you want 1,000 reliable horsepower - a car you would put another 100,000 miles onto without worrying about it, then I suggest you start with a little M block, a good rotating assembly, etc.


-- Joe

dellman83Z

iTrader: (9)

That's what dilemma is. Torn if I just sell what ls stuff I have now and just buy a little m block or sell my 383 and build the forged 408 ls motor.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I wouldn't use a stock LQ4 block, I'd use a Dart LS-next block.

Up to you really. LS is more efficient, has better flame travel, and the blocks are stronger to a degree. But it will cost more to build.

-- Joe

dellman83Z

iTrader: (9)

Im not really worried about the stock lq4 block. Those things can take a beating prepped right. Buddy of mine is running a 88mm turbo on his with 1200ish fwhp and a pile of miles and it is just fine. The tune is everything with keeping them together. Dart block would of course take what I would throw at it and them some, but of course for more money.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Well, tuning has nothing to do with the block surviving. Tuning, or rather proper fuel and spark will prevent detonation and save the pistons.

To make 1,000+ hp you will require a ton of cylinder pressure. That's what breaks blocks. In a perfect world, the pressure transmits to rotational force and turns the transmission. In a not so perfect world, the mains split, the webbing cracks, the rods bend, etc.

A stock LQ4 is surely stronger than a stock SBC, but I don't know that I'd expect it to live forever at 1,000HP unless it was really prepped well, and even then I get nervous with stock GM castings.

-- Joe

Kenwood

iTrader: (1)

I could make you a deal on a dart little m 400 sbc setup, as complete or incomplete as you would like as I'm parting out my GTA. Pm me if your considering the little m route.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Not to be a pain in the butt but:

nothing that we've talked about will put down 1000hp reliably for 100K miles. Maybe you could build an engine that makes 1000hp but never use it and tool around using <400hp for 100K miles...

Tuning has a lot to do with the bottom end surviving. Detonation hammers the bearings in the bottom end, often at low levels where a good piston will survive for a while. Take out the bearings and you'll take out the bottom end and likely destroy the block. For that matter blow a piston to bits and the rod flailing around will likely put a hole in the block...

Old 5.0 mustang engines are a great example of how tune helps them live longer. EVERYTHING in their bottom end was lightened to the point where it would flex when you put power through it and tune had a great deal to do with how long you could get it to hold together.