Pics of D1SC on a ZZ4
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pics of D1SC on a ZZ4
here it is I finally got it all mounted, but I'm not done yet thats why everything is kinda messy, the pipe from the throttle body cover to the piping isn't done being made yet so this will do for now.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm running a Be Cool radiator and a 12 rib pulley, look at how close it is.
I hope I don't throw a belt and ruin my $450 radiator.
any suggestions on where I should route my hose?
I hope I don't throw a belt and ruin my $450 radiator.
any suggestions on where I should route my hose?
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it's a ZZ430 clone.
I put the HOT cam in it with the aluminum fastburns and blueprinted the combustion chambers so I have 10.2 in every cylinder.
I'm dying to get it running and on the road, so I can go smoke the trash talking nitrous injected cobras running around here.
But first I have to get my spohn subframes, torque arm, and trans crossmember on.
then I still have to tune it.
I put the HOT cam in it with the aluminum fastburns and blueprinted the combustion chambers so I have 10.2 in every cylinder.
I'm dying to get it running and on the road, so I can go smoke the trash talking nitrous injected cobras running around here.
But first I have to get my spohn subframes, torque arm, and trans crossmember on.
then I still have to tune it.
#7
TGO Supporter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
remember this looks closer than it is thats the way all of the following pictures are I assume. you can see that if we put the bigger belt pulleys here, I would just cut down the radiator inlet more. that piece of chrome pipe is a 1 1/4" x 6" piece of chromed/brass pipe. it is sold as an extention to the undersink drain trap at hardware store. it looks professional and clean, and keeps a bouncing belt from cutting the hose and a blown or thrown belt from ripping it off, it can get pretty violent at full boost, like this customized radiator holdown complete with cracks. I have even seen radiators taken out by errant belts.
Last edited by B4Ctom1; 01-04-2002 at 12:50 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
TGO Supporter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
or this in a combination of 90 degree welded on elbow
Last edited by B4Ctom1; 01-04-2002 at 10:28 AM.
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My brother has a Be-Cool Radiator, and a D-1 mounted the same way in his 88 Iroc, and we had the same problem. Take the top radiator rubber mounts from both sides, and cut the thick section that rests against the A/C condensor off until the radiator tilts towards the front of the car enough to get rid of the stainless strip that was included with the radiator, and mount it like stock. We still had to cut about 1/4" off the radiator snout, though. We've had no problems with the hose coming loose, and no cooling/A/C problems. Hope this helps.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post