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The two plug and play connectors on the left side of the picture seem to be compatible by appearance. I would venture to say yes, but would give Racetronix a call anyway just to confirm...
soooo disappointed that summer has zipped by.... (it’s been very cold and wet here the last few weeks, 37*F/ 3*C at the moment)
too many obligations to finish this project before it snows....
I’ll keep plugging away over winter I guess... sigh
I have to find a T-fitting for the oil pressure sending unit and oil feed line to share the same oil source at the oil filter site.
I believe that the oil pressure sending unit is a 1/4" NPT and the oil feed line is 1/8" NPT.
I hate trying to find fittings for all of this stuff.
Was gonna order braided lines and fittings for the transmission fluid cooler too.... I think they're both 1/4"NPT in and out of the tranny (700R4)
Gonna need some help/suggestions with the re-pinning soon, but I'm gonna wait till its warmer and the wires are a bit more pliable...
Hey guys, a couple of members have PM’d me about the project... so I figured I should letcha know what’s going on.
First off the transfer case motor in my Sierra took a dump and caused a ton of subsequent problems...
Then the head gasket in the truck cracked and I ended up doing the top end (which was kinda alright to tell you the truth)
Then I wiped out my crotch rocket which left a terrible hole in my knee, the doc could put his whole index finger in it..... I think the brake pedal went through my leg. The hole and road rash was bad but the infection was way worse. Almost a month of IV antibiotics and I think I’ve finally beat it.
So I’ve been outta commission for the last month or so, but I’m starting to walk un aided and the MRI says that there’s no catastrophic damage.
I hope to be back in the garage soon to finish finish up this turbo project.
I’m moving around pretty good again after the motorcycle crash and got back into the garage to pull the fuel pump out.
I started to put the Aeromotive 340 in and started to look at the tiny wires coming out of it.
Now considering that I bought the Racetronix Hotwire Kit and the power wire is 10 gauge from the alternator to the very last connector before the pump....
Should I replace the last foot or so to a heavier wire?
The Hotwire Kit says that the pump can pull upto 20 amps under a heavy load, seems like the 2 wires coming out of the pump are a little under rated for that... looks like 18g....?
So after much contemplation, I decided to run heavier gauge wire to the pump from the end of the Hotwire Kit.
I removed the bulkhead plug and installed a grommet in its place.
Ran all three wires through the grommet, positive, negative and fuel level.
Soldered a 10G wire in on the positive and negative side then applied heat shrink as required.
Not sure but i think wire length matters some in its ability to transmit amp load, so the short run of small gauge wire for pump harness may be ok. But you cant go wrong with larger wire
I use this chart often at work. Nothing wrong with going up to larger wire, but to answer the other question the length does indeed have a large effect on amp carrying capacity, as well as voltage and wire type. (Type is broken down elsewhere.) Most import part of higher current wiring is to be sure your fuse is rated to go up well before the wiring hits its limits thermally.
Hope your knee is doing better, I've been following this build for a good while and hope to do something similar in the future. Right now I have to finish my current set of upgrades but buying a house and moving this summer has put a hold on my stuff. Keep up the good work!
Got the fuel pump access door buttoned up...
Used threaded inserts and screws to fasten the door to the car...
Then onto turbo drainage...
Drilled a hole in the unused mechanical fuel pump plate And welded a pipe to it
to allow access for a oil return to the engine from the turbo.
Glad to see this project still going! Did you consider the Mallory plate w/fitting though? I ran out of block off plates, and I didn't want to mess up the stock one, so I bought the Mallory piece...
Soooooo, the downpipe is wrapped in fiberglass header wrap.
Was gonna install the starter, but figured now was a good time to run my transmission cooler lines....
I thought that I had done enough research and purchased all the AN fittings and braided line..., but I purchased the wrong fittings that go into the tranny case....
my car had a kill switch like that one mounted in the bottom of the trunk facing the ground. then there was a rod connected to the lever and ran out one of the bottom license plate holes with a flat plate attached for the push off decal. worked good with zero holes drilled in the bumper.
Oh hey Orr...
things have been pretty slow ....
its -37*F here in the middle of the day....
and I’m a ICU Nurse so Covid has had me pretty busy these last few months....
Honestly, I don’t have far to go.
1) Battery relocation into the back. Run power.
2) Vacuum lines
3) MAF delete and MAP hookup
4) EBL repinning (which makes me nervous)
Don't sweat the EBL repinning. I had mine (EBL Flash 2) sitting in the box most of last fall avoiding it doing everything else. And, I also had replaced my MAF harness with one from Painless so I figured I was really going to be on my own. Looked at RBob's instructions a couple of times, unplugged the 165 and started to swap pins thinking "that's all there is to it?" I think I emailed him once because there was one wire of a different colour but that was all. I had more trouble figuring out Racetronix's supposed plug and play harness...
09-19-2018, 07:54 PM
