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K, power wires have been run back n forth.
Just gotta make terminal ends in the back, the front is done.
Another quick question…. I wanna keep my oil cooler and was gonna run 5/8” heater hose but can someone tell me where the coolant was coming from and going to as far as the passenger side plumbing goes .
Getting closer…..
Last edited by GTA Sammy; Aug 12, 2021 at 09:08 PM.
Made terminal ends on all the wires in the hatch and connected them.
Battery positive and alternator power wire to one lug on the kill switch and the other lug goes to the positive power bulkhead on my driver fender.
Whew…. Still gotta install
Coolant lines from oil cooler
Vacuum lines
Boost gauge
Power to starter from the positive bulk head
MAP
Passenger PVC to catch can
Put the Wideband O2 in.(just a hookup)
Then EBL Flash P4
Plugs and wires/timing
Well the plugs and wires go in pretty good… if hours is good 🤣
After a bunch of fighting with the lack of space I bit the bullet….
Gotta unbolt the driver side from the head and v-band to get #1 spark plug in, but it might have gone in easier without the header wrap. Either way I feel like the wrap is a necessity so…, it stays
I hate the way the HSR fuel rails fit around the distributor, I might try to route it from the front with the crossover in the back…
I pulled the cap and it looks like I got rough timing ready.
Wires routed this way for now…
Vacuum and boost lines are done.
Still gotta run a line for the boost gauge but the T fitting is already in place. I’m hoping that I can reuse some of the transmission temperature gauge wires that are there so maybe it’s partially done (wishful thinking)
Street Lethal helped me out with a few EBL specific questions I had, like where do I wire the MAP sensor, repining and MAF delete….Thank You
This is way more work than most people are willing to tackle….
The only way I would have attempted it was with TGO!
Thank you to all that have helped me along the way… Almost ready
Last edited by GTA Sammy; Jul 23, 2021 at 12:41 PM.
Try Accel shorty plugs, not cheap but. I have to pull the down pipe to install #5 every time and the shorty plug (a 526S for vortec heads) gives me some clearance. And yep, Rob/Street Lethal is the guy for sure, I'd still be choking in fumes in the dark ages without him...
Brian
PS just saw your pm now, glad you got the MAP sorted.
Last edited by brian p; Jul 23, 2021 at 06:49 PM.
Reason: clarification
OMG, didn’t realize that the EBL needed a NB o2 signal so I bought an OEM o2 sensor and welded in another bung. I thought that it would use the WB somehow….
Not to difficult at this point but it meant that I had to take the downpipe off again (won’t be the last time, I know…) and unwrap the fibreglass wrap, weld and re-wrap… ugh
With the exhaust out of the way I was able to finish the heater core/oil cooler lines and get the wire loom relocated up and on the fender so I could pull the MAF wires out.
I also took the opportunity to wrap the heater lines in foil to protect them from heat and figured I would do the same to the downpipe to protect me from fibreglass hair 😝 and the turbo blanket went on…
I took a few minutes to post a YouTube video on my page “Sammy’s Garage”
The sound is bad, but I know why… (GoPro was in a sealed case….)
and I lost a bunch of wiring and battery box mounting video… 🤷♂️ Ugh
Over the last week or so I was able to delete my MAF and re-purpose a few of the wires for the MAP Sensor. I got a 5v power from the TPS Sensor.
So the MAP now has a vacuum/boost reference. The boost gauge needs to go in and a few pin relocations for the EBL ECU
Then taking care of the laptop and software before I can start it…
I really should sign in more often, sorry about that. I just come in and read posts, never think to check my pm's. Glad to hear you're taking a stab at the repinning. I also realized after reading the above you have a P4. I have the Flash 2, it seemed much easier to repin but it's the same process. Deep breath and one at a time. it'll work out great. Just wait till you get on the boost...
that pic brings back memories. when i got my car, it had an ANCIENT Accel DFI (early 90s) in the factory location, and it used an adapter harness between the dfi and factory wiring harness, and that is where the wires would be switched around to the appropriate input. i had that thing out quite a few times changing pins around....
