In the process of rebuilding my vert and decided to build a custom spoiler because my mounting brackets for the original one were broken or cracked. I started with cardboard templates and went from there.

 

I've been thinking of doing a custom spoiler to mine when I finish with the hardtop build. I've got a long time before that happens though. Still in the planning stage.

If you've got any more pics especially other angles with no spoiler at all i'd love to see them.

 

Nice fabing.

 

This is the only other picture I have without a spoiler. you can see the far left hole the mounting tab completely broke off in the deck lid. I ended up drilling it out and welding the holes closed so water doesn't get in.

 

Looks good. Let me know when you want to start taking orders in lol

 

One of the many other issues I have been dealing with was a quarter panel replacement. Nightmare of a job.

 

How will yours differ from the factory spoiler?

I've also been slowly working o one but I've been looking to use the regular coupe three piece spoiler version. The problem is asc did not do well with the trunk lid alignment and the spoiler is their to cover the spot welds and the shoddy trunk alignment. So I'm looking into the big chore of fixing g those two issues. If not I'll reuse the stock piece.

 

Aside from being sheet metal versus the plastic, I increased the height of my spoiler by about 2 inches (hard to tell from the pics). I haven't made the side pieces yet, but I am not going to run it along the entire length of the quarter, as you said they did that to hide their crappy work. Mine will also get permanently welded to the car and will be seamless.

 

If you haven't already, look at the spoiler on the Camaro that rad rides by Troy did. It might give you an idea since theirs was metal and welded.

 

I'm wondering, is the bottom lip or edge of the trunk lid above the taillights not even with your taillight opening on the fenders either? I have a suspicious feeling that instead of using a GM hatch lid and simply lengthening it thye made their own trunk lid entirely from scratch...

I might buy a junk yard stock 3 piece spoiler and elongate it since my original fiberglass from scratch idea is taking soo long.

 

Mine were pretty close, the gap that is, but there is always some room for improvement. It was definitely not a precision job at ASC or wherever they did the convertible modes back then. Just one more reason I ditched the plastic one and decided to make my own.

 

Getting the hole for the third brake light is turning into more work then I wanted. because the brake light has a concave design to it and my spoiler does not it causing the bottom end to kick out, not sitting flush with the metal. I thought maybe ill just add some metal around where the spoiler is sticking out and refine it that way, but I am not really pleased with it.

 

 

I am going to have to rethink my process and come up with another way because I am not happy with the results. Not sure if I want to find a different third brake light all together, maybe an LED set up or find another way to make the stock light work.

maybe something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2xSubmersibl...VVxO2d&vxp=mtr

 

Looking good! Following

 

As much as I don't want to take steps back with this project, I think I am going to end up cutting the rear face (the piece that holds the brake light) off and bringing it to a machine shop I have access to in order to use the sheet metal brake or roller to create the same concave angle as the brake light. In the end this is going to be the best way and cleanest method. once the weather warms up a bit ill work on the side pieces as well. Ill add pictures as I make progress.

 

old vs new third brake light. The new one is the top one which is an LED setup.

 

new LED light installed, now just have to weld the spoiler back together.

 

 

Don't forget to rust prevent while your that deep in it with some 3M rubberized undercoating or something. Love the spoiler.

 

Absolutely will, the last thing I want to deal with is more rust. Speaking of 3M undercoating, which is what I used on the inside once I fixed the floor pans, the stuff works well. Recently we had some rain and snow and even though my car is covered with 2 tarps the wind managed to cause some rips in the tarps allowing water to get inside that car. Well, I had a puddle where the back seat would be and after cleaning up the water and drying the area I was impressed how well it held up. Didn't see what spot of water damage.

 

When I first got my vert I put in new carpet and while I had it gutted I got 3 cans of 3m rubberized undercoating and went to town. I was pleasantly surprised to find my car had zero rust and it looked brand new underneath. I just wish my trunk lid was made of aluminum or fiberglass. When I'm working back there the lid always falls on my head.

 

I can't understand how that decklid is so heavy either. Weighs almost as much as a door.

 

Yeah it is insanely heavy for what it is. no wonder the shocks always fail. I am motivated to finish the body work now that the weather is nice again. I am happy to say that the rear quarter is almost finished and there is only one spot of rust repair left on the entire car.

 

The LED looks cool!

 

Thank you, I hope to get the spoiler welded back on the trunk lid soon and start working on the side pieces.

 

 

Making a little bit of progress, put the trunk lid back on and tack welded the spoiler on for alignment. Everything seems to line up pretty close, only some minor adjustments need to be made.

I Have to start making the side spoiler pieces now.

I was really happy with how well I was able to get the replacement rear quarter to line up with everything, it took a lot of time but I am happy with the results.

 

It might be too late to offer up the advice I have been been finding out as I have been working on my spoiler/rear fenders/trunk lid.
1. I think if your trunk seal is worn at all you should replace it to make sure the trunk lid doesn't sit any higher when you replace it.
2. The rear piece of the spoiler should come all the way down to the bottom of the trunk's lip, that way you can correct any height difference between the fender's tail light opening and the trunk lid's lip.
3. To raise the top of the rear fenders (my opinion looks better) the easy way just take a piece of sheet metal and bent it over the top of the existing fender. (I think they used 20 gauge stock-its what I used anyway and its not hard to bend and work) Then cut off from the new piece the amount you need the fender raised and just make a straight piece for the inside for the new drip edge. Make sense?

I think I ended up taking the harder approach with making three new sides.

 

I like how you did the inner channel area, smart idea and looks clean. Did you replace the whole quarter panel?

My original plan was to run the spoiler to the bottom of the trunk lid but I learned that the new LED taillight I integrated wont allow me to move the spoiler down any further because it hits the trunk lid on the inside of the spoiler. I may just measure and add an additional strip of metal to bring it all the way down.

I am not too concerned with the fender height at this time, mainly because I will be fabricating new spoiler pieces out of metal to replace the plastic ones that came from the factory. It will take some work, but I should be able to use those side pieces to hide any minor flaws or gaps.

 

I didn't replace the whole quarter panel, mattter of fact I didn't replace any of it I just added to it extending the top of it. If you have any mismatch on the heights of the trunk lip to the fender's tailight opening I would add the strip. Also as long as their isn't a big ledge from the bottom of the new welded on sheet metal to the trunk's lip you should be ok. Though you could just to 2 or 3 welding passes and then grind it down and body filler over it too.
Are you still making the spoiler a wrap around design like the stock spoiler that goes all the way up to the doors then?

 

Ah, gotcha. It still looks very good what you did, solid way to get the gaps nice.

There isn't much of a ledge at all with the new sheet metal spoiler to the trunk. I was either going to add a strip to bring it down to the bottom or utilize some body filler to smooth it out. I do need to add more welds to the entire piece, I ran out of welding wire half way thru today unfortunately.

I plan to create a very similar design to the wrap around spoiler that came from factory, the idea is to use it to clean up edges, height difference and gaps while making everything seamless. I have a lot of metal to cut, but I have a 5'x5' sheet of 20ga sheet metal to use. I have been using 20 ga for my repairs as well.