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Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
It says 7.5 min recommended...but they also say 9.5 max and I ran a 10....lol
I'd at least get an Iroc rim, 8.5", bulging the tire out on a radial, is really hard on them... I've heard. But I think that the iroc was a 16".... so that won't work. ...hmmmmm
Those that are running a DS loop..what kind do you run and do you have a picture? Summit has some universal ones but I don't know if they'll work all that great.
6.5 will work. with stock width rear.. just get rid of the bumpstops and some side wall on the rear wheel wells.. easy easy..
Just checked clearance of my wheels on a friend's 3rd gen...just like you guys said. Thanks for the help...now I don't have to buy new wheels. I owe yas a beer..🍺
check this link.. the gray inner sheet..can be done away with..its trash thin not worth keeping. just cut it out as one piece.. only cut upward from bottom about 4 to 4 1/2" keep the top of the spring and shock coverd. you will see I put a strap back in.. its up to you.i did it to keep the spring in it's seat/safty stop is all... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...-6-5-back.html
I started cutting the metal out and decided it would be easier to cut both layers and just weld in a flat piece...however....with both pieces gone it gives me easy access to my shock adjustment which is near top of shock..Does that need to be covered or can I leave it open as an access hole?
Ok..so momma let me spend some money. I am ditching my 4th gen rearend for a 9 inch at third gen width. My question is now that I'm narrowing my axle back to stick width my current wheels won't work at 6.5 BS. I plan on keeping my 275 DRs so what BS am I going to need now? I don't want them to stick out at all. Thanks for any input.
Ok..got the first 2 of 4 packages in today for the new rearend. I'm pretty stoked. Will be assembling center section this weekend. Description listed below...
Custom built QP 9" housing & axle package for 3rd gen F body (setup for 4th gen brakes)
- 35 spline axles
-Compatible with stock style suspension
-Chevy wheel bolt pattern (5x4-3/4)
-1/2"-20 studs 3" long
All new pro N center section
-Yukon nodular iron case w/ 5/8" cap bolts
-Timken USA bearings
-Solid pinion spacer
-Aluminum Daytona pinion support
-Motive Performance ring & pinion gear set (4.56)
-1350 Billet steel yoke
35 spline HD drag spool
Ok..got the first 2 of 4 packages in today for the new rearend. I'm pretty stoked. Will be assembling center section this weekend. Description listed below...
Custom built QP 9" housing & axle package for 3rd gen F body (setup for 4th gen brakes)
- 35 spline axles
-Compatible with stock style suspension
-Chevy wheel bolt pattern (5x4-3/4)
-1/2"-20 studs 3" long
All new pro N center section
-Yukon nodular iron case w/ 5/8" cap bolts
-Timken USA bearings
-Solid pinion spacer
-Aluminum Daytona pinion support
-Motive Performance ring & pinion gear set (4.56)
-1350 Billet steel yoke
35 spline HD drag spool
And it is a good thing I did this. Upon removing and tearing down my 10 bolt I found 2 broken ring gear bolts and all of them were loose from threads breaking.
Ok..so momma let me spend some money. I am ditching my 4th gen rearend for a 9 inch at third gen width. My question is now that I'm narrowing my axle back to stick width my current wheels won't work at 6.5 BS. I plan on keeping my 275 DRs so what BS am I going to need now? I don't want them to stick out at all. Thanks for any input.
stock thirdgen width rear axle, 15x10 with 6.5" backspacing works great and tucks really well. must bfh inner fender and cut the bumpstops out. this has been covered exhaustively here so you should be able to find pictures of what i'm talking about.
Last edited by mw66nova; Jul 15, 2016 at 07:09 PM.
stock thirdgen width rear axle, 15x10 with 6.5" backspacing works great and tucks really well. must bfh inner fender and cut the bumpstops out. this has been covered exhaustively here so you should be able to find pictures of what i'm talking about.
Matt,
Yeah I've already done that. I did a quick reply on my original post so all that popped up as well. Thanks though.. I'm pretty stoked to install it this weekend.
Those that are running a DS loop..what kind do you run and do you have a picture? Summit has some universal ones but I don't know if they'll work all that great.
Originally Posted by WickedBowtie
Besides the lakewood 18020...is there another driveshaft safety loop that can be used with the stock torque arm?
I'd like an answer to this as well although I have the UMI torque arm. I don't much care for the Lakewood loop what with having to lift the carpet (and Hushmat) for the bolts. Plus in my application, it interferes with the header y-pipe.
What about a piece of 4" or 5" tubing (2" long or so) welded to the torque arm directly? I believe there's more than one manufacturer that has that as an integral part part of the torque arm.
Then there's Spohn's crossmember incorporated piece as well.
I'd like an answer to this as well although I have the UMI torque arm. I don't much care for the Lakewood loop what with having to lift the carpet (and Hushmat) for the bolts. Plus in my application, it interferes with the header y-pipe.
What about a piece of 4" or 5" tubing (2" long or so) welded to the torque arm directly? I believe there's more than one manufacturer that has that as an integral part part of the torque arm.
Then there's Spohn's crossmember incorporated piece as well.
As long as it never touches the driveshaft while it's turning. .. it would be fine, but be careful not to over heat & weaken the torque arm.
I bought mine from UMI.
Pretty sure just about any of the aftermarket suspension companies carry them. I'll post up a link when I'm back at my PC. (phone is limiting).
i miss the jegster loop. that one was awesome. it fit well and went around everything without too much drama. unfortunately jegs has discontinued the line altogether
For what it's worth, what I have done in the past is to re-use the mounts that were installed on the original (9 bolt) axle (2 3/4" I think) and slot the holes. Then all it takes is a 3" muffler clamp to connect the mount to the axle tube. I boxed in the end of the clamp base for strength and a little detail. Worked just fine.
The picture below is my Dana 44 with 3" tubes.
You can see the muffler clamp (with the boxed in end) supporting the sway bar mount and urethane bushing. The clamp base is painted black.
Last edited by skinny z; Jul 27, 2016 at 07:27 PM.
Hell, if you have 2 extra rearends. .. I'd come outta the hole at 4-4500 & let that BE_A-TCH EAT!
Originally Posted by skinny z
For what it's worth, what I have done in the past is to re-use the mounts that were installed on the original (9 bolt) axle (2 3/4" I think) and slot the holes. Then all it takes is a 3" muffler clamp to connect the mount to the axle tube. I boxed in the end of the clamp base for strength and a little detail. Worked just fine.
The picture below is my Dana 44 with 3" tubes.
You can see the muffler clamp (with the boxed in end) supporting the sway bar mount and urethane bushing. The clamp base is painted black.
Well...as of right now I think shes done for the year. About a week ago I put my car on a lift going over some things so I could load her up to get dyno tuned at a local shop. Well...while it was in the air I let the car run for a bit to get some run time on the brand new rear end. It was at this time I noticed I had severe wheel wobble at both wheels...I checked the obvious..loose wheels....rotors etc...what I ended up finding was that both of my brand new axles were out of round. That's right...brand new 35 spline axles out of round. So to back up My theory I brought them to a machine shop to be chucked up and checked by a pro...same result. I contacted QP and was advised to send them back so they can check them out...they paid for shipping and all.they received the axles and found same result. So they are in the works with moser now trying to get me new axles. They confirmed that nothing was installed incorrectly or done incorrectly...so I should be gtg as far as a warranty on concerned. So...while the car is down and waiting on new axles I have decided to start my next year, next big upgrade now which is all new front end..k member, coil overs, control arms etc...also switching to rack and pinion. Kinda sucks that I've spent all this money this year and only made 13 passes...but that's the life and I'm looking forward to getting her back together for next year.
i hate to hear that, but doesn't surprise me given the vendor in question. they do not produce the same quality as say Strange, Moser, or Mark Williams
The axles are Moser, Matt. They are the ones that QP uses for there builds. Just need Moser to validate the warranty now. But I'm glad I caught it and didn't go beat the hell out of her like that.
Kinda sucks that I've spent all this money this year and only made 13 passes...but that's the life and I'm looking forward to getting her back together for next year.
I know the feeling all too well. I've spent most of this season away from home and as such just recently reassembled the new top end. Today was supposed to be the last test and tune of the year and I planned to get in a few passes and report back on what I had hoped to be a success story. Unfortunately, the snow and cold has prompted the track to call it a day. Gotta wait till next year now.
I know the feeling all too well. I've spent most of this season away from home and as such just recently reassembled the new top end. Today was supposed to be the last test and tune of the year and I planned to get in a few passes and report back on what I had hoped to be a success story. Unfortunately, the snow and cold has prompted the track to call it a day. Gotta wait till next year now.
Sorry to hear than man. It sucks..but I'm glad I caught it in time. In the mean time...I'm going to start on the front end. I've already made up my mind on going coil over and new K member etc...however...I am wondering....by switching to a tubular k member it opens up space in engine area. With that being said are there more header options available? I currently run the Hedman LTs and want to run a 1.75 header instead of the 1 5/8 I have now. Anyone have any input on this? SBC with AM k member change.
hooker 2210 or the doug's headers. either way i'd still get the headers for the thirdgen chassis since the k-member is only about half of the space constraints of these cars, lol.
definitely give PA Racing a look for those k-member components. probably the lightest for the dollar on the market, and craftsmanship is 2nd to none.
hooker 2210 or the doug's headers. either way i'd still get the headers for the thirdgen chassis since the k-member is only about half of the space constraints of these cars, lol.
definitely give PA Racing a look for those k-member components. probably the lightest for the dollar on the market, and craftsmanship is 2nd to none.
i highly recommend emailing jason directly, as he's a bit of a one man show, so phone calls don't always work well. if you need to talk with him directly, get him to call you per your email, lol. his email is
Matt, I emailed him. Hoping to hear from him soon. Thank you for that. Also, I'm changing out the headers and am looking into Doug's....but I was wondering...could I buy a set of shortys or turbo style headers and just turn them around and run them out the fenders? I seen some headers for turbos with the band clamp style collector that looks like I could just run some piping right through the fenders. Any input will be greatly appreciated.
some people have with good luck. my car is barely fast enough not to get dirty looks for my fender exits. i like them, but if the car is slower, you may get laughed at, lol.
some people have with good luck. my car is barely fast enough not to get dirty looks for my fender exits. i like them, but if the car is slower, you may get laughed at, lol.
i get where you are coming from. i appreciate the honesty. i can care less if others laugh at me..lol....my main concern is have LT headers so close to the trans brake. i was thinking if i run the exhaust up front i wont have to worry about that. i don't know..i haven't made up my mind yet. still sorting out all this front end stuff for now..
i tried a set of hooker shorty headers super comps..all i did was turn them around and they clear quite nicely..i was surprised...and they are only 180 bucks....downfall is that they are 1 5/8. my LT were 1 5/8 as well..so i don't know if it will be that huge of a difference. i have read some articles and watched many videos and surprisingly going from a LT to a shorty at same tube size there wasn't really any significant difference from what i can tell. but anyways..as always..i appreciate your input. thanks again.
...my main concern is have LT headers so close to the trans brake....
i've never once seen this as a big concern, and was not a problem with my car when i was running an auto. i wouldn't worry about it. worst case, wrap the exhaust that goes by the solenoid.
my front exit headers are custom, equal length primary, tuned primary and collector diameter and length. it was a lot of work, but i believe there were gains there.
