Video is set to private. Nobody can view it.

 

It is set to public now. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Must have been shot with an iphone. Vertical video that was shot horizontally. Vertical video is bad enough. I'm sure there are some video editors than can flip that onto it's side.

 

that sounds great

 

It was taken from my LG...lol

 

Thank you. Hoping to get it to track soon. Just waiting on my lexan windshield to show up.

 

Sounds good, what is the engine combo?

 

383 with forged bottom end 11 to 1 CR.
Edelbrock Perf. RPM Heads 1.5 RR
Edelbrock Air Gap intake
Comp Cam 292H Grind
Modified dirt track 750 CFM Carb
Long tubes

 

NICE!
Have got to run her yet?

 

Have not had it at the track yet. I'm waiting on my lexan windshield to come in. Should be here this week. I Have however marked out a 660ft stretch of country road with laughable at best traction and have blaster her up and down that a few times. I don't have an accurate speedometer so I rely on one of those apps that tell you your speed. So if my measurement is close and the app is somewhat close then I have hit 103 in the area I marked out. I'll know for sure pretty soon when I take her to track. Plan on shooting a 150 shot too once I get car all figured out.

 

Roller or flat tappet?

 

It is a flat tappet cam.

 

Seems to me that. ... you sir, are in for ONE HELL OF A RIDE!

 

Thanks bud. I'm hoping to....lol

 

What are you shooting for (et,mph)?

 

I'd like to see 6.99 or better in 1/8 on just motor.

Car weighs 2850 with me in it. Motor makes right at 500hp/495trq.

TH400 with 3500 stall

Stock GM 10 bolt with a set of Richmond 4.56 and ARP ring bolts and wheel studs.

Plan on upgrading the rearend next year. But for now this one is still holding. If it breaks I have another.. 2 more actually...lol

Still have a lot more weight to cut too.

 

WOW, you've already dropped quite a bit of weight!
Can't wait to see how it goes. ... keep up the GREAT work.

 

Thanks bud....I'll keep ya posted.

 

Looking forward to it !

 

 

kiss the stock 10bollt goodby...pinon gear anyway. there is nothing to get it to live with sticky tires...
going with aftermarket brakes drops 35+ lbs wildwood as a example.
k member & A arms coil over another 35lbs..

just depends on whats nexed.for ya..

 

10 bolt with 4.56 gear may not make it through the first pass. my buddy went 1.4's with a 10 bolt with 3.42 gear though.

 

I have not launched the car with its full potential in fear of breaking the rearend. I footbrake and usually only get the rpms upward of 2000. Still holding for now but not sure I want to launch any harder.

 

Hell, if you have 2 extra rearends. .. I'd come outta the hole at 4-4500 & let that BE_A-TCH EAT!

 

 

 

 

Is there a specific year make and model I can look for a stout rearend? I hear a lot of people say run a 12 bolt...mine hasn't given out yet...but it's just a matter of time. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

 

It really depends on your power level, a step up is a Dana 44 (direct bolt-in ), then a modified 8.8 ford or 8.75 Chrysler, then a 12 bolt or S60, then a 9".

 

Are these products pretty reliable?

www.quickperformance.com/QP-GM-1982-1992-F-Body-9-Inch-Housing-Moser-Axles_p_40.html

 

A 9" is about as good as it gets for the money, Moser axles are a great quality, so if quick performance has a good rating... & the price is right, yes.
I'd do a search online for feedback on the company / reviews of their products and testimonials from customers ( I always try and find out the bad, if it's trivial stuff, i.e....took an extra couple of days or a week to get there, but it bolts straight in and works. ... I'll buy it). JMO
Strange offers a direct bolt-in 12 bolt for around $2,500.00, depending on options +/- a few $$$

 

I am able to get my hands on a 9 inch out of a 64 thunderbird. Any idea on what needs to be modified if any?

 

ALL of the brackets, axles re-drilled for 5"x4.75" bolt pattern & you'll have to buy an adapter bracket for the torque arm. You can run a ford bolt pattern rim on the rear, and if you're back halfing the car you won't need the torque arm.
Basically, it's cheaper to buy one already done.

 

so i took the car to the track last night. let me just say it was a blast but far from what i was expecting. i was having a hell of a time with traction coming off the line. i would knock the tires off right away all the way through the 60 ft and had my ET Pros set to 20 psi. a friend had recommended softer springs and better shocks for the rear as i am still on factory OEM parts in the back. my question is what is a good/recommended shock and spring for the rear? i was looking at lakewoods 50/50's for the shocks and unsure of the springs. any input would be great.

 

A good strut, like Lakewood 90/10's will help ( if you're not already running them ). An adjustable rear shock would be ideal as well as a rather "soft" spring, not a dead spring either (if it's to soft it's gonna cause more problems than not). Every car likes a different setup. I'd get a set of new stock springs, and a set of "drag race" springs from a reputable source ( their are several companies & everyone has an opinion ), then swap & test...swap & test, etc.
Make sure that you have your pinion angle set right, if you don't have the relocation brackets for the LCA'S & adjustable LCA'S. .. I'd recommend getting them as well.
This is JMO & I'm sure that others will gladly give other suggestions. You may find that someone else's setup will be close, but not perfect for your car. Trial and error are the best way of figuring out what your car wants & gets you intimately acquainted with it. The BEST stories, come from the people that build their own.

 

I have a set of adjustable rear drag shocks on the way. Going to order the Lakewood 90/10 next week for the front. Same goes for the springs. Hoping to have shocks in by Wednesday that way I can install them and try again on Friday etc...etc...

 

^^^^
Important stuff, getting the chassis to really work will pick up things in a good way personally dont like the idea of heavy squatting like the rear to lift and plant the tires instead but as posted every car will want something different

First time out is never what you expect sounds like you know this
A well sorted out car can walk one with more power that hasnt any work done underneath all day long. Youll have to play with tire psi over time too dont get too low too quick that can slow you down.

 

what kinda times were you running?
gotta say i was disappointed my first time out too. more seat time woulda helped.

 

to start with just get a 50/50 shock for the back.. 90/10s for the front.. saves a few bucks. and just works..
get a 9" under the car.. you will never look back.. it's spendy $2000 but its a one time free for a life time of racing.
you can get a 3rd member locker set up with 31 spline axels for $600 off ebay just shop.. Im swaping mine out to a Fab9 type just for the looks.
but I'm running a ladder bar type set up. no TQ arm..

 

Yeah, I have to agree with you arcticwhiteZ, the 50/50 shocks would work for his power level & e.t. goals. I'd probably start with a 225# spring in the rear, getting the rear to just squat as the weight transfers & then standing back up is my goal. So you don't want to go to soft.

 

I don't think a car needs to squat..as some put it.. just use the stock springs..
iv used my stock spring from day one..just the 90/10s in front 50/50s out back.
and put the power to it...keep it simple..wheels up. and good 60ft times

 

I just watch the best and how their suspension works. Most that I have seen, if you watch the car in slow motion, from the line you will see the body "squat" just a bit ,the tires wrinkle & like a shot they're gone.
We all see it differently, but try & get to the same end result.
Have you tried swapping springs? It can be very helpful

 

for the first few years it was stock springs..the new upgrades are coil overs on all 4 corners. I run a ladderbar type set up..my car will not work that way.as the rear is pushed down. and the front lifts to add wt the the rear when the car leaves.

 

That's what I'm calling squat. We're saying the same thing, differently

 

Oh, what # spring are you running on your coilover's in the rear?

 

All 1/8 mile ...

1st- 8.45
2nd-8.33
3rd- 8.28
4th- 8.35
5th- 8.50

The last pull I did I kept car in (D) and let it shift on its own as I thought I was having transmission issues...and I was. My Trans wasn't set up for a MVB so it was shifting on its own from 1st to 2nd even though I was trying to manually shift it it would still overcome it and shift on its own.. Since then I have put new stock springs in back with a set of 3 way adjustable shocks set to 50/50. The Trans was gone through and now has a MVB. Been raining every weekend here so I have no new data. Hoping to go this upcoming weekend.

The video above was very first pass.

 

Let's see how she does with what you've done, if you can tune your way to 7.90-8.00 range or better. ... then put a 150 shot on her & you should be 6.99 or faster.

 

Yeah that's the plan. I'd like to get into mid 7s without gas. I think she has it in her. But it is definitely in her future.

Hopefully traction will be better and she won't shift on her own anymore at 3k from 1st to 2nd.

 

Right!
If you can get her suspension dialed in and the trans works correctly, I'm thinking 7.70's +/-