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For those who are interested in the wiper motor, her are some more pictures. We used everything included in our Universal Kit. The mounting plate was cut down to fit the recess and then we attached our splined tab to the factory pitman arm.
For those who are interested in the wiper motor, her are some more pictures. We used everything included in our Universal Kit. The mounting plate was cut down to fit the recess and then we attached our splined tab to the factory pitman arm.
How do you set up the end points of the sweep and "parked" locations?
Seeing as how there are no new circuit boards, a lot of people could use this. Can the stock switch be used with a bit of wiring?
How do you set up the end points of the sweep and "parked" locations?
Seeing as how there are no new circuit boards, a lot of people could use this. Can the stock switch be used with a bit of wiring?
When you power the motor on and off, it automatically parks itself, so once it was parked we hooked up the pitman arm while the wipers were in their parked position. The motor operates in a constant 360 degree sweep until you power it off and then it will park. This kit is complete plug 'N play so your switch would be remote.
Back again! Started the mock up for the rear end, fender flares, and did some more mock up assembly including that shifter bezel you all love so much! Also installed our new Tilton pedals.
Those 315's are sitting pretty nice in the wheel wells as it is. Trim the fender lip off and tack 1/8 round for a lip and call it done.... But actually I really like how those flares are gonna look. Keeps the factory vibe with the shape you have mocked.
I really like the sway bar set up/brace. My wishlist is so deep...
The rear suspension looks fairly involved. Floor modifications and supports added to support the front mounted coil overs I'm guessing.
Did I read earlier that you plan to have the exhaust exit before the axle?
The rear suspension looks fairly involved. Floor modifications and supports added to support the front mounted coil overs I'm guessing.
Did I read earlier that you plan to have the exhaust exit before the axle?
Sorry for the delay in response.
The only rear suspension system we sell that requires floor modifications and supports is the QUADRALink™. We do offer a complete bolt in coilover kit. The coilover bolts into the factory shock location. Here is a link to the kit...http://www.detroitspeed.com/1982-199...lover-kit.html
As far as exhaust, we have decided to run it over the axle and dump it at the bumpers.
The only rear suspension system we sell that requires floor modifications and supports is the QUADRALink™. We do offer a complete bolt in coilover kit. The coilover bolts into the factory shock location. Here is a link to the kit...http://www.detroitspeed.com/1982-199...lover-kit.html
As far as exhaust, we have decided to run it over the axle and dump it at the bumpers.
Your video regarding the QUADRAlink is very informative. It answered my question regarding the floor mods as you've described in your reply.
As for the exhaust, I'm interested in seeing your results. It's always been where the 3rd gen guys have had to be creative over the years if dual exhausts are desired.. That is, prior to Holley releasing their Blackheart line for us.
Just a handful more, felt the need to show off the awesome T-56 cross member that our fabricator Andy came up with...
The crossmember looks good from an aesthetic point of view. It looks like you are using a basic c channel design for the transmission crossmember. The C channel derives strength from it's vertical sides and when you ground/cut the sides down you lost all that strength. You should look at span tables for flat bar and see if you're still satisfied with the weight handling tolerances.
I've been going through a similar issue currently as I make my transmission crossmember. I'm using a 1" x 2" x 0.120" ERW tubing and rounding the transmission tunnel to a width of 2' my tubing should hold a uniform load of 630 lbs before it sees 1/8" deflection. Can't recall what it is rated at with a centered load point. My father is welding engineer and a metalurgist and does contract work in QC worldwide so he has held my hand through much of the thinking process. I decided to use a design similar to a motor mount. Welded to the inside of the front of the inner subframe connector (that itself is welded to a 6" x 6" plate) will be the eyes of the bracket and the transmission crossmember will be mounted inside that piece. It's not done yet. These pictures just show the piece that will be the sides of the crossmember that connect to the tunnel side of the mount. The bolt (one on the front side and on on the back side) will go through the eye portion of the bracket and screws into the crossmember.
Dig those subframe connectors.
Just wondering, any reason you didn't choose a 91-2 body which is a bit stiffer? Did you get any chassis twist data b4 you began?
92s added glue in the seams, but 91 was no better than 82. And because of wear to the tooling, a new 91 was probably worse than a new 82. The new 93s used glue instead of pinch welds, but 92 still had pinch welds.
92s added glue in the seams, but 91 was no better than 82. And because of wear to the tooling, a new 91 was probably worse than a new 82. The new 93s used glue instead of pinch welds, but 92 still had pinch welds.
I'd have to look at the info again because i'm not 100% but IIRC, the adhesives came in around in late 90?
If you are talking about pinchwelds along the bottom of the rocker panels, they were still pinch welded till the last ones rolled off the line in 2002 and most cars and trucks I have seen still used the pinchweld.
They brought the pinch welds back for '94, but '92 was the test for the '93s.
If you find both on a '93, post up a pic. The only '93 I ever got close to was before I knew about any of this. '93s are really rare, and I suspect it was low production as much for this as for a late intro.
I did have the GM literature about '92 getting the structural adhesive, I'll try to find it. If you have anything about it being '90 or '91 also, it would be cool to see it.
I had a '91 RS I parted out, but I never checked its seams.
DSE: Very cool running 315s up front, kudos for that. especially Rivals. But others who have tucked 10.5s up front with 295s report that with the perfect offset, an 11 would be an easy tuck. No flaring required, just rolling the edges of the fender openings. Do the 315s kill that, or could you get them closer to the struts with more offset? Because I was planning those 315 Rivals on some 10.5s with no flares. The 10.5s are only $106 each, then keep milling some 2.5" spacers ever thinner until the tire kisses the strut.
Also, I would have thought you would do a tubular K in place of the heavy bulky stock cross-member under the engine, why not?
Do you guys make/sell this piece or is it borrowed one from the pass side.
Our fabricator Matt is a die-hard 3rd Gen lover and this was just something that always bothered him about the car. He made this piece and we don't plan on producing it.
DSE: Very cool running 315s up front, kudos for that. especially Rivals. But others who have tucked 10.5s up front with 295s report that with the perfect offset, an 11 would be an easy tuck. No flaring required, just rolling the edges of the fender openings. Do the 315s kill that, or could you get them closer to the struts with more offset? Because I was planning those 315 Rivals on some 10.5s with no flares. The 10.5s are only $106 each, then keep milling some 2.5" spacers ever thinner until the tire kisses the strut.
Also, I would have thought you would do a tubular K in place of the heavy bulky stock cross-member under the engine, why not?
DSE: Very cool running 315s up front, kudos for that. especially Rivals. But others who have tucked 10.5s up front with 295s report that with the perfect offset, an 11 would be an easy tuck. No flaring required, just rolling the edges of the fender openings. Do the 315s kill that, or could you get them closer to the struts with more offset? Because I was planning those 315 Rivals on some 10.5s with no flares. The 10.5s are only $106 each, then keep milling some 2.5" spacers ever thinner until the tire kisses the strut.
Also, I would have thought you would do a tubular K in place of the heavy bulky stock cross-member under the engine, why not?
At the our ride height and trimming the fender lip about 1/8", as we jacked the wheel up, it was clear that it would hit. Just to assure that it would clear everything completely, the flare would be necessary. As far as the K-Member, for what it is, the factory member isn't entirely too heavy for what it is. We didn't feel that it was necessary to change it.
More updates since we skipped out on the holiday weekend!
Andy fabricated a mount for our oil tank and Matt closed out the driver's side. We also bolted up the firewall plate from Test Car 1.0. The guys also decided to throw on the nose just to make it look like a car again! It's progress...
Our A-arms are designed to fit a factory spring therefore it is possible that they may work. However, we haven't tested that, so it is not verified.
Visually the Ground Control and DSE weight jacks look very similar, and I would assume there would be a hole big enough in the spring pocket to allow either screw jack to come through.
Our fabricator Matt is a die-hard 3rd Gen lover and this was just something that always bothered him about the car. He made this piece and we don't plan on producing it.
Please stop flaunting these one off parts if you don't plan on producing them then
I'm jealous of you guys being able to pull together the resources to put this together, especially so quickly. Yes, you've made a good name for your business, and that's enviable too. It's extremely hard to get that lucky break that turns all the education, all the home garage work, into getting paying customers, so props and kudos for that.
You didn't answer about the size of any gap between the front wheels / tires and the struts. How much does it have?
And to everyone else, I do have the skills and tools to fabricate and sell whatever DSE won't.
I'm jealous of you guys being able to pull together the resources to put this together, especially so quickly. Yes, you've made a good name for your business, and that's enviable too. It's extremely hard to get that lucky break that turns all the education, all the home garage work, into getting paying customers, so props and kudos for that.
You didn't answer about the size of any gap between the front wheels / tires and the struts. How much does it have?
And to everyone else, I do have the skills and tools to fabricate and sell whatever DSE won't.
With 6" of backspace up front, we have about 1/2" of clearance from the wheel to the strut.
And to everyone else, I do have the skills and tools to fabricate and sell whatever DSE won't.
Cool, I'll take two of those drivers side strut tower pieces, the steel cap for the shifter opening, the steel reinforcement and the aluminum shifter boot.
Without even asking what it'll cost?
I was already looking at starting my own brace for the left strut of my '86 Camaro, I may as well do a run of ten of them all at once. Stay tuned to my own build thread. I don't want to hijack this one.
Matt decided to change up the fire wall fill plate and ditched the one we had from Test Car 1.0. Along with running battery cables, the firewall bulkhead was installed and we mocked up an alternator. Mast Motorsports coil pack brackets were also fitted.
This is our Universal Wiper Unit. Since we will be building our own electrical harnesses for the car and it includes mainly motorsports-style wiring this is our best option. Also, a stock-style column will most likely not be used so that will eliminate the factory wiper switch.
We hope everyone enjoyed their holidays! We are back to the test car working on the front bumper modifications. Matt has cut the new glass up to create a better gap to the hood. He has also fabricated a removable closeout to help serve as an air dam.
