Did my plugs. They all looked good except for 2. which was really fouled up. Pics of the plugs are layed out from the cylinders as if you are looking at the engine from the front of the car.

Car runs very smooth now after cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. Welcoming any thoughts on the plugs. Car has 116,000 miles. I have not checked compression but it runs strong.

 

That could be something as simple as valve seals

 

Thanks. Does the test below still hold true?

Hard acceleration smoke: piston rings worn
Hard Engine Braking deceleration (high vacuum): valve stem seals worn

 

If you want to test the rings, do a compression and leakdown test.

There's no easy test for valve seals. Typically you'll get a puff of smoke on startup from the oil that leaks past the seals when the engine is shut off. Intake seals are more easy to detect because the piston is pulling air/fuel into the cylinder when the valve is open. A leaking seal will also allow oil to get pulled down the valve guide. Exhaust valves however are closed when the piston is moving so any oil leaking past the seals gets pushed out the exhaust.

If you want to know the condition of the valves seals, you remove the valve springs for inspection. Chances are they're hard and brittle.

 

That looks like what you would typically see with bad valve seals, a puff of blue smoke at start up and during high manifold vacuum conditions would verify bad valve seals.

 

Don't forget intake gasket leak from lifter valley. Also if fouled are in the rear of engine possible clogged oil return passages. You will know if clogged as soon as you brake valve cover loose.

 

That's definitely oil. Several cyls have it, that one is just the worst.

Try valve guide seals first. Use the "positive" type; NOT "umbrellas", NOT O-rings. Put in new springs while you're at it.

If that doesn't help, intake gasket is next. Remember, across the bottom, the ports are adjacent to the crankcase. Leak = vacuum will suck in oil.

Doesn't look like plugged return passages; #7 & 8 are no worse than the others.

If it's still like that, start saving up for a short block. A compression test might tell you a little bit about the condition of those; however "good" compression doesn't guarantee good oil rings, and bad compression doesn't guarantee bad rings. You can't readily diagnose down to a specific part that way. Squirting oil into the cyls might show up rings being bad, but if the real problem is valves and seats, and any oil gets on them, it'll seal them up somewhat too.