Hi guys,
Just starting to fit my F1 cog kit on my SBC. As is normal many issues to work through....how to make power steering and alternator work with just one v belt pulley etc etc. Even through its a Electric water pump kit,the cog belt rubs on underside of pump housing(Procharger..oh does'nt work with all Electric pumps!!!) All sortable with time n coffee.

My question to you guys is,anyone got pictures of how they got something on the Air side of the head unit,as there is about 2" between the flange and the end of the brake housing. My plan is silicon elbow cut down and piped up to hole in hood.
Thank you

 

holy crap. a F1 must be huge. my D1 had a mile of clearance.


pics out of curiosity?


edit* maybe switch to a hydraboost? that losses the booster. but never saw one in person to say it definitely moves the master back.

 

Iv looked around at other people pics,found a picture of a F2 in a 3rd gen on here with same deal. Im getting a guy to fab up something looking like a carb hat to fit on the intake side. Its the only thing we can think of other than messing with the brakes,parts are not readiery avaiable here.

 

When had my F1R I used this and built a CAI tube that when down through the battery tray.

 

Are you running an actual filter on the orifice, or just a screen?

Pretty sure the F1's use the same size blower housing, or a similar in size one. I heard from some it was like a half an inch longer overall than the D1, but I have not seen exactly where. Was told by others that it was the same housing though. Not sure if Traviz is still posting here, but he ran an F1A with a non-serpentine setup. Was pretty sweet, just sat a tad higher in the engine bay. He had to cut a hole in the hood to fit the 5" pulley, but I'm almost positive he upgraded to a smaller pulley by now...

 

Thats cool,what is it.
Looks like the kind of thing we are going to make and then run it straight up into a hole in the hood with a 2"cone filter.

 

oh, watched the video and that looks absolutely nothing like the brackets had. mine went over the stock accessory brackets. making it like 4 or 5in father forward than yours. allow for a rubber elbow to angle up and the bypass return turn ran into that from the bottom.

 

The video shows just the problem l have,but l am not going to suck hot dirty air so we will fix it.

 

I've always heard it referred as a 'cobra head'. At the time I sourced it from a diesel (large truck/semi) parts place. The piece I used was fairly hard rubber because that was all that was available. Since then I've seen that similar designs are now being made from silicone.

 

Ok thanks,will check it out.

 

Yes, they are the same as the D1, just checked. It was Willie who confirmed it back in the day...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...does-bolt.html



It goes for every single third gen running a D1/F1 Procharger, not just the video I posted. Some of the members came up with pretty neat ideas over the years though. In the end though I would just run an alky kit with it come race time...

 

Thanks for the help,the Cobra head cost about $120 in silicone but worth it as it works.
Will post a picture when lm done.

 

Never been a fan of blowers with the inlet like that. Sucking in hot air just above the exhaust manifold/header. If it were me I would look at a corvette setup where the blower is turned around.

 

If you have a good intercooler the temp from the intake over the headers isn't bad. My intake temps are 12 degrees above ambient cruising. Gotta remember a procharger head unit runs about 125 degrees at idle so the air will get heated anyway. The consensus seems to be a straighter shot to the blower with less bends makes more power than trying to get colder air with multiple bends.

 

My F1-R works that way. Intake temps are really low even still. It just doesn't matter all that much by the time the air gets compressed, the difference is pretty small, and the intercooler drops it way down.

As far as brackets go, with a cog drive you've got to do some research and work on your own.

Companies like Jones racing products, RCD Engineering, etc will be your friends. I ditched the procharger lower cog almost immediately.

Call ATI and get a super damper with a blower hub setup. That'll give you the 6-bolt Chrysler snout setup to work with, which opens up WAY more options. I have a pulley behind my sprocket (separate part) that drives the power steering pump. I fabricated my own alternator mount, and drive that off a pulley on a mandrel that comes off the front of the blower cog, and attaches with the same 6 bolts like a sandwich. I'll see if I have any pics of it.

http://rcdengineering.com/products/b...pulleysprocket
http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/csDh.html#chry (I have the Chrysler pattern mandrel).

Also, I should note that I had a Callies crank custom made with a BBC snout on it, after the blower tore apart the front of the regular SBC snout on my first Callies crank.

 

I realize this is a little old, I hope you got it sorted out. But if not, I had to do this the hard way a number of year ago, so hopefully this saves you some running around.

I have a billet blower hub with a damper that fits over it from ATI, but now they also make integrated dampers with the crank pulley machined into the outside of the damper:

http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...s/damsuper.htm

You can kind of see what I have here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=56726353272&set=a.56725323272.68483.508558272&type=3&permPage=1
and here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=56726358272&set=a.56725323272.68483.508558272&type=3&permPage=1

 

hi just a quick question black was your callies crank snout a single keyway ? and that's why it broke ? it sheared the snout off? thanks
Also, I should note that I had a Callies crank custom made with a BBC snout on it, after the blower tore apart the front of the regular SBC snout on my first Callies crank.[/QUOTE]

 

[/QUOTE]

It was a single key, but it didn't shear it off. It rolled the key over, and actually twisted the billet steel damper hub. They keyway was banged up but it could've been repaired.

The BBC snout is double-keyed, and much larger of course.

 

It was a single key, but it didn't shear it off. It rolled the key over, and actually twisted the billet steel damper hub. They keyway was banged up but it could've been repaired.

The BBC snout is double-keyed, and much larger of course.[/QUOTE]

ok ty it was too late for me since i already had purchased my callies crank but i put 3 keyways onto it i was just checking to see if it broke the snout off thank you

 

Ok, got it all together now. The Cobra head bend works real well,had to turn it over the block in the end,couldnt turn it outboard due to strut mount. Filter now sucking cool air in front of engine.

 

 

Looks good.

Have you done any tests to see if its causing any restrictions?

 

We havent tested flow,but all seems good,the figures that came from the manufacturer says there is a 10 percent loss using a Cobra bend over their standard 4" silicon bend.