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So I just purchased a 1965 Buick Sportwagon (like a Vista Cruiser) out of California (I'm in Wisconsin), the car has a 350 with a TPI unit on it and a 700R4, all of which I was told were out of a Corvette (it's a 3970100 block, so out of a truck or crate motor). The car came with a Paxton blower on it all mounted and piped up and it works great. Runs perfect until it makes boost, and leans out terribly even at partial throttle. I thought maybe a previous owner probably installed the blower and didn't do anything else to make sure it gets enough fuel, so I pulled the blower piping off it to see how it would run, and it runs out great to redline at WOT with no lean issues, so I feel like my theory is verified.
All my previous experience is with N/A carbureted SBC's, and N/A LS motors, I've never owned a TPI. I know there are MAF and MAP TPI's, mine is MAP.
I'm sure I need a chip, but are there other items needed to boost a TPI (Injectors, MAP sensor, etc?) This is not raced, just a big old family cruiser I'd like to make some good power with.
Any help is much appreciated.
Last edited by MillenniumSS; May 4, 2017 at 01:24 PM.
I haven't tried ANYTHING with it yet, just picked it up this last weekend. I always thought FMU's were kind of a bandaid for not having enough injector capacity?
I've sent an email to Paxton, didn't know i they had a complete kit back in the day that maybe came with all the necessary hardware and chip. I haven't heard back from them yet.
Else you gotta physically tune it using pe mode enrichment vs rpm as the boost curve comes in. Need larger inj for the hp as few psi will make more than 22 lb inj can support.
Or need to convert to a 2 bar map based code like $59 but its not that easy to work with
Thanks for the help everyone. So, the car did have a FMU on it, hidden away. I disassembled it and it was extremely gummy, cleaned it up and it ran slightly better, definitely getting enough fuel. Took my timing light to it, and whoever timed it had it about 10 degrees off. Re-timed it with the EST disconnected and magically it runs perfect now.
Thanks for the help everyone. So, the car did have a FMU on it, hidden away. I disassembled it and it was extremely gummy, cleaned it up and it ran slightly better, definitely getting enough fuel. Took my timing light to it, and whoever timed it had it about 10 degrees off. Re-timed it with the EST disconnected and magically it runs perfect now.
Be careful! It may have had timing pulled for boost for a reason. If it doesnt have a timing retard box, then only way to pull timing is in chip tune or retarding base timing.
Setting to stock timing and adding boost can be disasterous