Can anyone tell me how I identify if this is an ls1 or lt1 unit.

How do I decipher whether it is a 93 or 94-97 trans.

What should I check to get the best idea of condition (movement of input/output shafts, endplay, shift feeling?)

All advice appreciated... price is 1200 thoughts?

 

Seller claims it was in a 96 impala ss and came from a 70kMI car

 

It's an LT1 transmission judging from the clutch fork and hydros. Normally there's a green tag under one of the bolts on the passenger's side that would ID the transmission. The trans in the photos is missing the tag. Also, normally there's a paper tag on the top with the transmission code, also missing. You can throw it in sixth gear, and turn the input shaft and count the output shaft turns to guesstimate the ratio, which would tell you which gear set it has, but that's still just an educated guess.

With all the extras included, it might be worth 1200, but all those extras from a B-body aren't going to do you any good. I sure wouldn't bet my money on it having 70k miles on it. I wouldn't expect a transmission from a car with mileage that low to be covered in grease with a bellhousing full of clutch friction material.

All that said, short of buying a complete 4th gen to tear apart, there are less and less T56s on the second hand market. Any fourthgen worthy of being junked is going to have a debatable transmission, likely with a zillion miles and plenty of abuse.

 

93 had two 1st gear options diff. than 94:
If it doesn't have a tag number beginning with 13-86 to identify the trans, put it in first gear. Spin the output 3 times. A bit over 10 turns of the input is 3.36 first. Just under 9 turns is 2.97. 8 turns is 2.66.
That front case plate with fork provision,the input matching the throw out tube length, and the bellhousing being 124mm deep / allowing mount of the slave cylinder are all LT1 T56 characteristics.

As far as covered in grease, a rear intake manifold to block leak is fairly common. I am okay with the visual you're seeing.

Get a new vent tube from The Gear Box. that one is missing.

 

Thankyou, Its my undertanding 93s could have a 3.36 or a 2.97 first while 94 to 97 had a 2.66?

could I spin the input 1 turn and count the turns on the about to try and decipher this makes it a little more easier for me to comprehend.

should I stay away from it if it's a 93? It's going behind a fresh sp383 crate.

I don't believe there is a flywheel with it will a stock one do?

Any idea what those billed parts are I'm assuming there impala swap parts? Is b body impala, do those parts have any value

 

I am selling a T-56 out of a 93 TA. Comes with a short throw shifter, spec stage 3 clutch (5k miles), 2.97 first gear.

Also hydrolics, shift fork and adapter flywheel to both the T-56 up to a Gen 1 SBC. All in, $1500.
pics:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ml#post6145648

 

Where are you located, I'm kind of looking for the numerically lower 1st gear as the car has a brand new 4.11 in it

 

"Should I get this one?" - you should drive some 2.66 first gear vehicles, and some 2.97 first vehicles. I know what I like, and it changes depending on what rear gear the car has.

You can turn the input 8 times, then 9, then 10 until the output turns 3.

I would be happy to use a 93 2.97 box with a 383.
With 4.11 rear, you may want the 2.66.

I think the newer GM 383 crates can use a 93-97 stock type flywheel. If you find that they use the same PN flywheel or flexplate as a new 1pc. rear seal 350 crate, that's confirmation.

 

Milford, MA

 

I went, looked and passed on it.

I could tell the guy was full of hot air to begin with just with a short phone conversation, his responses to my questions were quick and unhelpful. Once he saw me looking through it turning the shafts etc he got very annoyed.

I don't claim to know anything about manuals however I thought it was odd with the trans in neutral turning the input shaft resulted in the output turning also...

There was black rtv where the case opens up.... 70kmi trans my ***.

I could shift it into every gear position but it didn't feel right, like it wasn't actually changing gears. I took JMD's advice and spun the output 3 times with it in first, the input spun no more than 3 times. Again I don't claim to know anything about manuals but its in my opinion the trans is stuck in a gear, somethings very broke.

The input shaft had slop up and down in it that frightened me. The hydraulics were bone dry, the guy was visually heating up every time I put my hands on it, I jumped out of the back of his truck said I think this things f'd up thanks for your time and left....

 

Guessing I am too far?

 

I think you missed the part where I said to put it in 1st gear to do the spinning and counting. 3:3 happened because you had it in neutral. Yes, internal drag is normal and will allow one shaft to spin the other while in neutral.

Input shaft lateral movement isn't measured.
Shaft bearing preload / endplay is.

 

I understand what you meant, it was in first.

I wasn't sure about the output spinning in neutral.

 

JMD if I grab the input shaft and pull it towards 12 and 6 o clock should there be play there?

 

Doesn't matter. When installed, the pilot bushing in the crank supports it.

Bearing end play / preload is set by shims under a bearing race that sits in the front plate of the transmission. That measurement matters.

 

Yes the input shaft has a lot of play, like he said bearing preload is what matters.