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Hey guys, redoing the rear brakes on my 86 trans am. I can't seem to find the small section of steel line that connects the hose that goes to the rear end to the front to rear brake line. I've never had any luck flaring my own steel lines with the cheapo flaring tools and don't have the money to buy an expensive one so I would prefer to buy a pre-bent line. Any help is greatly appreciated
The line I'm looking for is above my index finger, it connects the soft line to the bracket where the front to rear brake line also connects to
that makes sense based off of the weird compression fitting like connector that's used on one end of it. thank you
I hate when someone puts a compression fitting on a brake line,whoever had my car before me did the whole front to back with comp fittings,so I had to do it all over again,I don't like making lines either but a moderate priced double flare tool worked really well and they have worked for 5 years with no issues.
I hate when someone puts a compression fitting on a brake line,whoever had my car before me did the whole front to back with comp fittings,so I had to do it all over again,I don't like making lines either but a moderate priced double flare tool worked really well and they have worked for 5 years with no issues.
this project started out because the guy did a compression fitting splice in the front to rear brake line around the middle of the car, I don't trust them so I went to replace that line and sure enough all the other lines twisted and cracked. What tool do you have? I bought several different kits from parts stores and online but they all just pushed the line out when it came time to flare steel lines.
Got the line hooked up, went right to the rubber hose like you guys said. Now my next issue is that the threads in the banjo block for the driver side caliper pulled out when I took the old line out of it, I can't for the life of me find a replacement banjo block. Anyone have any info on what will work?
I have used this piece on old Porsche`s and it has the same sizes as the 3rd gen. I dont know if you will ever find that exact GM part besides of a salvage
For about $120 you can get all 4 corners braided steel. Thats the junction block, banjo fittings, and all. It may suite you if youre having these issues with the p/o's custom stuf.
1 hard line from prop valve to near rear axle
2 front hard lines from prop valve to each front brake.
2 hard lines from junction block bolted to the rear axle to near each rear brake
2 soft lines with banjo block assembliess to each front calliper from front hard line.
1 soft line with junction block assembly that goes from the front/rear hardline and bolts to the axle housing. It has 2 holes for the rear hard lines on it.
2 soft lines with banjo block assemblies to each rear calliper from rear hard line.
None of the banjo blocks or junction blocks should be separate from the hoses
The passenger side is part of the hose while the driver side certainly does come apart..
But After 30+ Years I Would Advise Not Trying To Remove It,It Will Surely Either Strip,Twist Or Break The Line,When I Did My Brake Pads I Just Removed The Bango Bolt.
Woah didn't get any notifications for this thread. and to end the confusion, the drive side banjo block 100% does come off of the hardline, only the passenger side has a soft line with a non removable block. Maybe it's different depending on the rear end but that's how it is on my 86 9 bolt.
and to answer your question, I got all worked up over nothing, the banjo block threads ended up being fine. It was just a bunch of crud and gunk that made it look like the threads pulled out, I cleaned it and re used it. I did buy one from a corvette site that was linked earlier but it would never work on a thirdgen.