So I've had this fantastically cool idea of re-utilizing a UQ7 subwoofer gain controller as a means of engaging an electronic exhaust cutout.

The way it would work is the on/off toggle would enable or disable the exhaust cutout assembly. The rheostat of the gain controller would be used to control the percentage that the exhaust cutout is open.





Silly, or doable? It would be soooo cool!

 

1/2 Doable. A solenoid is either open or closed. And if I'm correct, some cutouts are solenoid controlled.
The switch would work; may need to go through a relay for current draw reasons.

Bench test it all before installing and see what you need to do.

 

Most of the motor-based cutouts I've seen don't have position feedback, so it's much harder to get an accurate position. You can guestimate by timing it at various voltages and doing some math, but it will drift. Might not be a problem though since you'd likely be closing it often. Although I can tell you that having control over the position isn't really as helpful as you'd think; sounds bad under a certain amount and over that it's just a slight change in volume.

 

Ah good point... if the door was nearly shut, you would probably hear something akin to the "poof" of a misfire as air would squeak past the door.

Still, in theory this is a cool idea in my whacky noggin haha

 

This sounds right.

Clever idea. But what about your subs?

 

The subs are not drawing amps. It's resistance and watts.

 

I just meant, what happens to the UQ7 system? I like mine. But obviously, the OP has other plans.

 

Oh I don't actually have a UQ7 setup. I 've bought switches for foglights, sub gain and trunk release so I don't have plastic blanks all over my dash where options weren't installed.

my idea in doing so was to repurpose some and use others as intended:
- fog light switch as a kill switch with pilot light for indication that ignition is enabled
- Uq7 switch for exhaust cutout as discussed in this thread
- Defrost for factory defrost already installed
- hatch release for a factory power hatch release setup purchased from someone on here

I've already got an aftermarket pioneer head unit in place and upgraded my speakers and installed 16ga speaker wire to replace original wiring and haven't felt the need to further enhance the sound system

 

How's your electronics skills? It's certainly doable, similar to how I made a custom cutout controller triggered off my foglight switch.

 

I guess I'll find out

 

Got it. A nice, factory, stealthy look.

 

Potentiometer is what id use, worth trying.

 

What type of cutout do you think you'd be using? Something like a QTP? If so I'm sure I could modify my controller circuit to work with the UQ7 stuff. Would just need to know some details about the switch and gain slider.

 

It is a great idea, but I am certainly no help in the execution part of it.

I do like the other suggestion of using a fog light switch! I might have to look into that mod as I have a spare switch and no fog lights

 

Huh.... late to the party but lots of thoughts:

I strongly disagree with this. I have a fairly quiet exhaust on my car (Headman headers, 3" pipe, dynomax ultraflow welded and a single 3" exhaust, it's really not far off of a stock exhaust, MUCH quieter than the typical 80 series flowmaster or every aftermarket exhaust I've heard on these cars). I have my QTP style (not sure what it really is, looks like QTP but it was in an exhaust that was left at a shop I worked at) wired to a power window switch and when I'm driving around and having fun I often drive it "hold the open side 3 seconds" and it sounds a lot like the typical aftermarket setup without the droning. Full open is LOUD and sort of my "full *******" setup, only when racing or screwing around, and I often go full closed when I'm just driving it somewhere, starting it after the kids bedtime....

I didn't know anyone still had one working. Mine was all hacked up when I bought the car with the subs replaced with 4.5" sony full range speakers. I always figured it was just a gimmick and not good enough to fix.

This seems much different, hold the on button to open, off button to close... Unless your circuit is more complicated than that. I guess we'd have to see what you did.

_How_ would you use a potentiometer? With no feedback for motor position, I have a hard time imagining a circuit that would deal with this well with no potential of holding the motor running and stalled at the end of it's travel.

I'm 95% certain that the slider for the UQ7 switch is a potentiometer.

How I'm starting to wonder what you did. Can you post details about your motor controller circuit?

 

Could just be how I have it setup then, certainly will act differently with different setups.

As far as my cutout controller, here's the link to the thread where I posted a bit about it:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...tp-cutout.html

I never went back and updated it with the schematic and the code, but I should be able to find it if I dig around on my hard drive. And yes, I know it's not the cleanest circuit (filter caps galore), but it is still working over a year later. Note that when I say foglight switch I actually used a defrost switch with the foglight cap, so that I could get momentary press both directions. The way I coded it, if I "double" click it will fully open or fully close depending on what side I hit. If I hold it, it will move until I release the button. I also wired up the indicator light to show when it's auto-traveling or when you hit a end stop. I'm using a current sensing circuit to detect when it's hit max travel so that I'm not burning up the motor (with backup timeouts in the code). I could easily have used a stock foglight switch if I wanted just fully open or fully closed. Would be the same circuit apart from how the switch gets wired in, just different code.