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That's about it for now....
I believe that all my major parts are here.
Have the EBL, Intercooler. BOV and piping.
The Areomotive 340 pump came in the other day, as well as a battery box for the hatch.
The 80lb injectors are here and I have the oil lines ready.
I was hoping that I could keep the nose on during the cold side installation...we'll see.
Im gonna try to fabricate a taller air dam to help push more air towards the intercooler and radiator, I'll cross that bridge later
I'll probably add a YouTube video soon
1989GTADRIVER
Last edited by GTA Sammy; Apr 6, 2018 at 03:15 PM.
Reason: Adding info
You hit the nail on the head!
That is flux cored MIG (first timer, self taught)
Electricity freaks the sh*t outta me, but I had to get used to it fast...
The welds have been getting better...
I was thinking of grinding the first stuff and redoing...
Still needs cleaning but I'm getting more comfortable
Last edited by GTA Sammy; Apr 6, 2018 at 10:50 PM.
Reason: Adding info
Thanks..
The fabrication scared me for almost 10 years, but I finally convinced myself to try it.
I made things easier years ago by getting rid of all the air conditioning equip...
It's the electronics that really have me worried!!!
The compressor is just low enough for the hood to close... So we'll see what happens...
I have a spare hood hanging from the ceiling in my garage in case this one gets sacrificed.
I checked out the schedule at Gimli drag way and I have most test n tune weekends off. Unlike the last few years where I've been working for all of them.
Quick question on exhaust headers - did you pick the Tahoe units over the S10 swap headers for any specific reason? I haven't researched them too much, just wondering if perhaps you had.
Looks like the driver side gets tight there the to steering box - how bad is it?
My other option is the XS power manifold set with the crossover under the motor, and the log style unit on the pass side. But I have an LT1 swapped in, and the alternator will be in the way of the turbo I believe. Not sure if it's easier at that point to move the alternator somehow, or modify the pass. side header.
I kinda looked at the S10 headers...., I wanted something short and tight because I initially planned to point them forward and up. Decided that forward and down was a better choice.
The driver side is crazy close to the steering box. I smoothed out the collector as best as I could then finished it with a Big F*ckn Hammer...😆
At this point it doesn’t touch.... and I plan on wrapping the whole hotside in header wrap.
i can’t speak to the XS system, besides to say that it would be a hell of a lot easier than fabricating your own!!!
Besides that, I thought that I could do it “cheaper” if I did it myself....
Its not cheaper.... especially if you’re buying welders, chop saws etc
I think all the mandrel pipe and v band clamps were $600+ CAD
If I were to do it again I woulda got the Single CX Racing kit. It woulda made more sense.
Time and Money
From what I've seen / heard, the XS Power may need the #8 pipe moved, and the crossover may also need modified. So the fab stuff may still be in order. I have MIG welded stainless exhaust before, but it wasn't show quality TIG.
I may think about the CX option again, it just seems like a good bit more money. But might be worth the investment. That kit sure looks a whole lot better in the aesthetics department.
Sammy, when you're ready, I will make you a video going over what needs to be done for the EBL install. It's very easy to do. Just get yourself an eyeglass screwdriver, as this can be used to easily remove the terminals from their connectors and make the install go very smooth. Once it's setup, and when all the sensors show the right data on the WUD screen in terms of which MAP your initially going with, which injectors, etc, the engine will fire right up and the VE Learns can begin...
Forgive my ignorance, but is it absolutely mandatory that you route both headers to the turbo? Wouldn't just 1 bank drive it sufficiently?
If you were using 2 turbos, then 1 would be attached to each header, correct? I'm thinking it would make the exhaust plumbing nightmare a lot simpler.
Are your exhaust pipes galvanized? If so, then that is why you are getting crappy welds. You need to grind the weld area down to base metal first.
I’m sure that somebody with a lot more knowledge and experience can chime in about the first part of your question, but the exhaust routing really isn’t that bad. I just made sure that I could turn my steering system from lock to lock. The driver side area is very crowded by steering shafts, brake booster, fuel lines etc.
The exhaust pipes are 16 gauge Aluminized steel.... I’m just a rookie welder with a dream
The welds got better with gun time
Forgive my ignorance, but is it absolutely mandatory that you route both headers to the turbo? Wouldn't just 1 bank drive it sufficiently?[
The fueling in the second bank would be completely off, and w/batch and sequential fire this would be a nightmare. It would be possible with individual cylinder correction, but then you will have one bank running hotter than the other, not to mention a very laggy turbo...
The fueling in the second bank would be completely off, and w/batch and sequential fire this would be a nightmare. It would be possible with individual cylinder correction, but then you will have one bank running hotter than the other, not to mention a very laggy turbo...
- Rob
You would definately need a second O2 and way to monitor/correct it. Some of the V6 saabs had a turbo on one bank and not the other. Properly sized exhaust housing should compensate for any lag.
Soooooo, I grabbed a dual 11” fan setup from an Audi S4 yesterday.
Looks like they’re 180 watt each, with 10 scooped blades.
I tested them when I got home and they started to lift up and fly away...!
They move a rediculous amount of air!!!
I’m gonna mount them infront of the radiator as pushers.
Bucks it was!!!
Import lot obviously...,
But there were lots of sizes to choose from.
Almost grabbed a Mercedes dual electric fan setup but the S4 looked a little better.
Got the wastegate dump pipe finished tonite!
I’m really happy with how it came together, despite my flux core MIG welds....
So the Turbo downpipe is 3”
The wastegate dump is 2.5”,
I figured that the wastegate might be moving a lot of exhaust energy... especially in the beginning.
Still lots to do, but I’m happy that I’ve had time to work on this project.
Just checked the Innovate site,
It says you can run the LC-1 in a turbo application,but suggests you mount it at least 24” away from the turbo.
By approximation, that puts me around the firewall.
Awesome
