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Not sure which vacuum tube you're holding in the picture. There are two plastic vacuum lines coming out of the firewall from the cab. The longer one goes to the heater control valve. The shorter tube is what powers all the HVAC actuators.
You should have a tee in the vacuum system behind your original manifold. You need that tee because it's more than just a tee, it is a check valve. That gets plumbed with the vacuum canister on one side, the plastic HVAC tube on the other side, and the intake manifold vacuum to the third side. You'll need to blow and suck on the ports to figure out which way the check valve needs to be oriented.
Okay...so I determined this to be my best solution for now - just didn't dig the Hawks CAI. I'm going to have my cousin, Monte make an aluminum box to roughly the same dimensions as the SLP box, but with the opening on the "inside wall" rather than at the top. If it goes well, it should be a pretty sweet setup.
As for this kit - AIR RAID CAI Master Kit ($300+)- umm...Master Kit, my ***! It comes with one (1) coupler...WOW! I ordered four extra couplers just to be safe.
Not sure which vacuum tube you're holding in the picture. There are two plastic vacuum lines coming out of the firewall from the cab. The longer one goes to the heater control valve. The shorter tube is what powers all the HVAC actuators.
You should have a tee in the vacuum system behind your original manifold. You need that tee because it's more than just a tee, it is a check valve. That gets plumbed with the vacuum canister on one side, the plastic HVAC tube on the other side, and the intake manifold vacuum to the third side. You'll need to blow and suck on the ports to figure out which way the check valve needs to be oriented.
There are two plastic vacuum lines coming out of the firewall from the cab. The longer one goes to the heater control valve. The shorter tube is what powers all the HVAC actuators.
Here's a pic of the engine bay before swap. You can see that the long one is still connected to the heater control valve. Short one goes to vacum port on back of intake port as QwkTrip stated. I don't recall that I re-used the tee with the valve - not sure. The vacuum is necessary for the actuator parts of HVAC dash control you manipulate with your fingers.
The old connector clip is in the baggie as I spray canned the engine bay. I needed to connect the red wire to power source and black wire to ground - this may not apply to you as your harness is your baby. Power sources may vary, but you need both vacuum actuator and electrical power (if using blower motor).
Ya, that will probably work. I'm squinting my eyes doing a mental exercise..... I think the port that shuts closed when you blow in it should be connected to the intake manifold. Probably the port on the left in the picture. The L-shaped ports on the right probably get connected to the plastic vacuum line and the rubber vacuum line that goes to the vacuum canister.
Not installing that check valve will make your HVAC flip to defrost every time you stab the throttle (or some weird symptom like that).
It all depends on air pressure (vacuum) at the HVAC controls. If you have a restrictive intake then you might still have vacuum in the manifold even at WOT. Or maybe the bleed down rate of the vacuum lines is slow enough that you're done with your fun before vacuum is lost (doubt it). Or maybe your actuators aren't working right in the first place.
It is the job of the check valve and vacuum canister to hold vacuum on the HVAC controls when manifold goes to atmospheric pressure. That's just the way it is no matter what anecdotal evidence anybody presents.
All my actuators work, well since I just had everything apart. I can honestly say there is no noticeable difference with/without the check valve and canister.
So, I found my original check valve. The tape says "To Plenum" - makes sense. but the long hose attached goes to the windshield washer reservoir. Does that make sense?
I have an aluminum radiator that is more or less identical to the original Third Gen radiator.
One difference between the Third and Fourth Gen (LS) setups is the LS cars have the "steam line" running from the cylinder heads to the radiator.
For that reason, the 4th Gen radiator has the extra fitting just beneath the overflow fitting.
The 3rd Gen radiator has a larger fitting in roughly the same location (maybe not quite as high) intended for a heater hose. This fitting will not be used for a heater hose because [on an LS] both heater hoses run off the water pump.
I intend to run the steam line to that heater hose fitting by using a reducer (5/8>>>>1/4) *see brass fitting*
Am I on solid ground here, or should I be thinking about getting an LS style radiator?
Also, I'm leaning towards using the 3rd gen elec fans (mostly because they have fewer miles and are clean - whereas everything on that 4th gen is a ****ing grease ball). Is there any compelling reason to use the 4th gen fans?
So, I found my original check valve. The tape says "To Plenum" - makes sense. but the long hose attached goes to the windshield washer reservoir. Does that make sense?
It goes near the washer reservoir, but not to it. The vacuum canister (looks like a plastic ball) is under the battery tray on that side of car.
Only way to know is just try. Coming in from bottom is probably more likely than coming in from top. If it doesn't go in then you know what you're doing next....
I can get my header in from bottom if I remove the oil filter. But my tubes are shaped different than yours so results will vary. On my car, getting all the header bolts in is the real b****.
Yep...Out she came.
I pulled the engine, bolted on the header, only to discover that the engine won't go in with the header installed for the same reason it wont go in with the transmission attached. Not enough room. Beat the hell out of my wiper motor - so I had to take it off and paint it again. The driver side header looks like its been in a motorcycle wreck...
In order to get it on I had to have the engine "somewhat in" and suspend the header between the engine and the frame (using a bungee cord).
So the driver side header is on, and I [had] the engine mounted back in.
Passenger side engine mount came off today to allow routing of the transmission lines. And will likely remain off until the passenger side header is installed.
Spent much of today massaging the steel transmission lines to route properly from the trans to the radiator. Its not easy.
The transmission is in the car and connected to the engine. However, upon attempting to install the $300 Hooker cross member, I realized that the transmission mount wasn't even close to lining up. Referring to the instructions, I saw that I must order a $50 (user supplied) adapter plate. Nice.
I have the Champion Alum Rad and re-used the dual 3rd gen fans - like the dual option.
Don't know much about the Hooker set-up - seems a little Stormy to me (LOL).
Exhaust is a pain - deal with it. I had no probs with driver's side - can remove. Pass side had to detach trans and jockey to get headers in. I could have cut the ears off the trans case, but elected not to - so far.
Trans lines I re-used, bubble flared and threaded some extensions to reach the rad - no leaks to date, and will make removal easier. I did encase them just to protect from heat as they do go close to things (same with fuel lines on other side).
So, I'm running the Hooker dual exhaust, as most of you already know. I'm also using all the Hooker peripheral parts to make the exhaust fit, including motor mount brackets and transmission cross member.
My Alston SFCs are not compatible with this necessary transmission cross member. Does anyone know anything about a particular brand/model of subframe connector that will mount without modification to a car with this particular transmission cross member?
The Alston is an inner subframe connector. Almost every other design on the market is an outer subframe connector. So the problem is unique to the Alston.
Does it require just a little trimming to clear?
My car has both inner and outer subframe connectors.
Super close now. Aside from being pressed for time, I've kinda been holding back on this thread in contemplation of a new Thread once this car comes to life.
Technically, I could probably put power to it now, but am waiting a couple more days for a couple of aluminum fab pieces (brackets) before go time.
Linson, you should see if someone can make custom “FORMULA LS3” decals for your doors that look like the factory font. Thought about doing that if I decide to bore my 350 out.
I think if it was the factory font/style it wouldnt be nearly as bad as you’d think. Its very subtle to begin with. Im all for not being tacky, I just think it would be weird leaving the 350 on there. But yes, that would definitely ruin the sleeper look if thats what he’s going for.
Thanks for all the encouragement. But we’re not out of the woods quite yet.
The cooling fans aren’t engaging, and this thing gets hot quick. It struggles to hold idle too.
It needs to be tuned, and I’m wanting to get this overheating / fans not working issue figured out before I trailer it to Vancouver, WA for tuning. What’s weird is that on day 1 the fans were working. On day 2 they were not.
Aside from that, she’s going to the shop on Tuesday for a front end alignment and installation of [outer] subframe connectors, Spohn strut towers, Koni yellows...
The furthest it’s driven is to my neighbor’s shop and back (he’s got a lift). Did not get to complete the installation of Hooker Blackheart dual exhaust because the supplied hardware kit was short a few items - some of them, MAJOR. Alparently, it can take up to 3 weeks to ship me another hardware kit.
Parked it back in my shop this evening. Hood off and running rough, she’s still sex on wheels. ❤️��❤️
