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I’m stil R12 and it’s low on charge enough it won’t turn on. It’s frustrating to read some people do very little and do the R134 conversion for nearly no effort with good results while others recommend replacing everything to almost s frame off resto to do the conversion lol.
Ya I went with a UX1 from John and waited for a few months until a nice one was found. It’s in transit now.
I rarely go to TO but if I do - likewise if you’re in London.
Well since my “pro” did jack sh*t other than a tune up and the A/C I’ve still got headers, a torque converter and subframe connectors in my basement along with a bunch of other goodies. On the bright side I have the opportunity to do some of the simpler exterior work myself.
Uno
Dos
Tres
The stories are all true- this is the simplest thing to do to wake up the front end big time. Of course “simple” is always relative: this example video for the ‘86
did not translate 1:1 for my ‘89. Each lamp turned out to have a recessed second bolt that was way less accessible than the first (only) one featured in the vid.
*I sanded and repainted the bezels on the fogs last year so they’re passable but one lens is cracked and they remain tired AF generally so they’re now next.
I’d actually already done a temporary fix with a few strips of black electrical tape on the bottom or along the side of each one which works fine as long as you’re not adjusting them all the time but this should last way way longer.
Besides the usual OCD on this stuff I was really interested in a dead match because my driver’s side is only showing a few blemishes so it’ll be staying where it is:
whereas my passenger side informed passersby this was an “IRUL-Z” (it’s way worse IRL than in the pic below)
Sitting here looking at the two options I’m left with the same conclusion I made reading about this topic over the winter: why the hell doesn’t anyone make a repro with the damn housing?
Repro
OE
Phoenix
I get that 91-92 there is no two studs housing so the repro is a perfect drop in but the problem affects 85-90 so you’d think one of the usual companies would get on it.
I suppose I’ll plunk in the repro for now and drop the Phoenix into the housing at my leisure to see how that looks as a possible option. Either way it won’t match the driver’s side that great: a nice repro not sticking out as much and lacking the housing OR the OE housing but with a stinkin sticker in it.
On a side note I noticed my gfx were a little loose and soon discovered why lol
Last edited by SirReveller; Jul 15, 2018 at 08:58 AM.
Well why do one and leave the other. Gotta have symmetry. So replaced the driver’s side with the repro as well. Looks pretty nice:
I guess the lack of housing is more an issue for the show car/investment grade guys. I’m just fussing on a stock 100k mile summer daily in my back yard while the kids are asleep lol
The Phoenix’s also aren’t too shabby in the housings as the alternate way of doing it though you could dig in your nail and gouge it (eg road debris on the highway etc) since again; at the end of the day it’s just a really good sticker.
Took the old girl out to the track for the first time- she held up admirably well against all the modern hardware. I kept thinking of Motor Trend’s “best handling car of 1982” lol The L98 struggled at the top end in the straights as would be expected - especially with a Porsche GTS and Camaro ZL1 on my *** - but the torque pulls you right out of the corners. Overall I was happy as hell with how she ran.
Again- all stock for now save for the magna catback.
For sure Dave- super fun, thanks man. I was a little worried beforehand that hammering a 30 year old engine and suspension repeatedly for hours would see me on a flatbed going home. Luckily the only car that got flatbedded out was some new M type bimmer that started gushing oil all over the track!
Well a lesson on sticking to a plan: I veered over to getting a sub during the speakers revival so as to have “complete” audio despite knowing it wasn’t really necessary for a no-hip hop ride. At first I found the little mostly-hidden bass adjuster cool but now the blue light is just annoying and interferes with the pure stock cabin. Not a huge deal but I’ll eventually get this outta here.
Well fun little electrical where’s waldo tonite: figured my hatch button had gone days ago, theeeen noticed my horn was out in traffic this morning...fooling with the contact cam tonight until I remembered it was replaced new last summer...suddenly realize my dome and under dash lights are off with the door open...aaaand, yup, no power locks.
A little tough to read but the PO had a 25 in the CTSY where a 20 was called for...borrowed the STOP HAZ 20 for a moment here and she lit up like a Christmas teee and was honkin’ and hatchin’ like a pregnant goose (very old Canadian saying).
I figure I’ll put a 25 in the WPR while I’m at it even though they’re working fine..for now.
Grabbed a pack of Littelfuse, popped a new 20 in CTSY and all good on horn, locks etc as already verified.
Interestingly I pop in a new 25 in the WPR spot as called for and the windshield wipers stopped working! Put the 30 back in and they resume working np. Old *** wiring for that old wiper motor just needs that slightly higher amperage at this point I guess.
My shifter plate was pretty decent, showing only the usual wear from 30 years, and probably would have showed pretty nice with a new ashtray spring and a full cleaning...buuut this was bugging me every time I got in the car
Very nice 88 - you’ve got one clean vert there. Def no need to ditch those. Absolutely - those are the Hawks I believe. For all my bitching about them being stickers Phoenix does get the font right!
it it looks like they get the tri-color pretty close, but weird thing is, the original bumper emblem is not tri-color, only the rockers are.. all the reproductions make them all the red the same for bumper and rocker.
When I was looking the only options were the ones with the bad “R” or better looking ones that were just a flat sticker that you’re supposed to put over the original raised up emblem.. Those Phoenix ones look decent..
Oh that’s interesting. My case was a bit simpler with just silver but looking at the GM Repro vs OE vs Phoenix pic again I’m seeing Phoenix does a far better job at starting with a fade up top than the GM Repro does.
Futzing around preparing to put on the Dynomax Walkers to get the OE tailpipes look.
And while 2.5” lines up as expected with the outlet for the Magnaflow muffler, these puppies are too long and need to get sliced first. Also will need to grab some better clamps (and the hanger bracket may be an issue as seems too far forward from the factory hanger at this point).
Anyway amusingly while I’m clanking around down there I catch a glimpse and answer my question on what shocks complimented the Monroe struts up front:
Clamps ordered. In the meantime I resumed the neverending pursuit of cosmetic perfection...
These are pretty nice repros next to the originals http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/85-9...-reproduction/
although the adjustment bolt is incorrect and far more glaringly the upper bit is bare metal for some reason.
My shifter plate was pretty decent, showing only the usual wear from 30 years, and probably would have showed pretty nice with a new ashtray spring and a full cleaning...buuut this was bugging me every time I got in the car
Many of these interior pieces are beginning to pop up as 3d printable files and are floating around this website as well as thingiverse. Could save you a good bit of change.
Many of these interior pieces are beginning to pop up as 3d printable files and are floating around this website as well as thingiverse. Could save you a good bit of change.
3D printing is going to be huge for restoring cars..
That is the main goal! Tough though- a few more hot summers and we’ll all be relegated to Prius’s or maybe mopeds. On the bright side leftist firearms confiscationists will be completely ****ed once 3D printing goes mainstream
If you leave it up to "them", "they" will not let you drive your cars. It's up to each of us to stay involved, with SEMA and local clubs, and protest whenever foolish legislation pops up.
Popped out to visit a local seller only to buy a pair of new plastic t-top rainguards he didnt need to rehab some backup t’s I have. Turns out he had an ‘87 305-out project in his garage and a bunch of other extra parts. As I’m leaving he’s like “oh and armrests too”. Hadn’t even occurred to me but the earlier style is a much more flat design than the “roundier” type I have and more importantly not prone to the glue-splosion problem. I realized holding them up that with the black dash and console and black mats I got in there they look better than the grey so took’em down for a song. Matches the black of the door latch assembly better too.
Before
After
I still have to massage out the door fabric but pretty pleased with the switch.
My pair, which exploded from mint in only one summer of hot t-tops-off weather, next to their older sibling.
I’ll still try to rehab the greys as I’d planned via this procedure https://www.thirdgen.org/armrest/
then just post’em for sale, but for now off my to-do list with an improved interior look to boot.
The ol’CS130 finally died on the way to work. :P
Hackin butts on a beautiful sunny morning waiting for the flatbed? Np : )
The only thing available on same-day notice to the shop to get her back running as a daily pronto for tomorrow morning was...a reman CS130...at 115amp! 10 more amps baby. Lol
We’ll see how long it lasts!
There’s alotta love for the CS144 140amp (eg http://sethirdgen.org/cs144.htm) on here but ya need a new bracket, I believe is noticeably larger, and some abysmal reviews on many of the shiny aftermarket manufacturers. In that light, satisfied with this factory look. However she did dip past 12 when underway with the AC on max and stereo blasting which, if this is accurate
is not ideal, but not the end of the world either. The gauges aren’t exactly precision instruments anyway lol. I’ll keep an eye on it as could simply be the recharged battery- I’ve found they’re never quite the same after a full drain.
Well it was fun rolling “sleeper style” DX3 for a few weeks after removing the incorrectly placed and tired IROC-Z door graphics that were on when I got the car...but this is not a DX3 car. Besides, the huge callouts are something most love about these cars as part of their personality including me.
This was a real “measure twice cut once” task. Props to Chazman who walked up to one of his factory perfect 88-90 IROCs and measured for the precise correct placement- there’s a looot of incorrect guidance on this topic floating around on here.
The bottom of the Z is 3.5 inches above the top of the ground effects and 4.75 inches forward of the rear door edge on my car.
Well not much going on except enjoying the hell out of the car the last bit of summer. Finally got my clamps for the walker tailpipes but realize along with some hacksawing these are required too. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41957
Running hot and cold on this “back to stock appearance” thing as I still love the magna pipes
This saved me at $150 bucks on new rotors. Two hours and didn’t even need the scotchbrite. Left doused, right not.
*I do not work for this company, lol
Nice to read that the product "Metal Rescue" isn't just marketing hype. I'll have to remember it for smaller parts in the future.
I prefer not to have rear tail pipes like that because when I did they would scrape against concrete when pulling into or out of inclined gas stations or parking lots.
Well not much going on except enjoying the hell out of the car the last bit of summer. Finally got my clamps for the walker tailpipes but realize along with some hacksawing these are required too. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41957
Running hot and cold on this “back to stock appearance” thing as I still love the magna pipes
This saved me at $150 bucks on new rotors. Two hours and didn’t even need the scotchbrite. Left doused, right not.
*I do not work for this company, lol
I’ve been back and forth on the pipes but after seeing a lot of rear end shots of my car from certain angles I think I’d rather the pipes hidden like the factory setup.. I’ll get that done before I put the car away this year..
Good luck with the 1LE brakes.. That’ll be a nice improvement!
Thanks gentlemen. Yeah from time to time myself as well Tibo. More often the front air dam if anything. I got new springs coming so my concern will switch next year to be being too high up lol.
88 sometimes I agree and sometimes I think these puppies fill up the space more. Also a little more bad-*** vibe too although many think cheesy as hell. Then again +10 points for “no need to show” off factory hidden style. “As it was”. Also very cool. Tough!
One other to-do worth documenting: I finally got around to the painstaking three-hour 3M adhesive remover/paint thinner thumbnail-scratching of this faded painted silver bar the PO had on the back. This allowed me to put a new(ish) 5.7 Tuned Port Injection bumper emblem (a great thread exists on that topic here https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/hist...roduction.html ) in the *correct* spot.. Shoulda taken a before shot but the very start of this thread shows the silver bar. It was pretty tired as was the OE emblem: I’m now much happier.
Exhaust pipes - for me I prefer stock. I like the other, long pipes too, makes me think muscle car a little bit..... But there are soooo many people who make a terrible hack job of it with the pipes hanging way low, crooked, unequal length, sticking out way past the bumper.... that in my head I am always reminded of this. When they are done well they look decent but 'done well' is subjective. But of course, do it the way it makes you happy - my opinion isn't worth squat haha. I am pretty sure you have an eye for detail so you won't do a hack job whichever way you go.
Thanks BT- I was actually also redoing the hanger to get exactly that: proper symmetry on the pipes. Easy to have one off like a chick with wall-eyed nipples lol. Really ruins the back end aesthetic.
To continue this topic I also later realized that instead of getting these
for an *entirely* stock look I shoulda snagged these
which are totally hidden. So technically not going exactly back to 100% stock. Still I agree I suspect I may find a less “in your face” muscle car look, with them instead pointed down and partially hidden to be the best style.
Had my eye out for the ‘89 faceplate UX1 for awhile now
to match the car’s radio RPO but a perfectly functioning local option with harness came up that I liked and it was too well-priced to pass up. I figure with ‘87 armrests, ‘93 vette front brakes and a bunch of red whatever underneath at 115k miles no need to be so strict in the cabin lol. Delco black and will look way better filling the space properly. Check and check.
Our resident Delco tuner expert John in RI kindly educated me as to its origins since the seller couldn’t remember:
Nice Head unit,... I've got a several of those. I find that the cassette decks have a kinda' high failure rate, but they are nice radios when fully functional. It's from a 1992-94 Buick Park Avenue, Roadmaster or LeSabre- part number ends in 414. It's called a CDM radio & it's a modular unit,.... meaning the "receiver" and the rest of the radio are actually separate parts. In many other GM cars & trucks ( Rivera, Reatta, Toronado, Suburban, full size Blazer, ect.... ) GM installed the "receiver" part of the stereo system under the dash or inside the center console and would have a separate or "remote" head unit mounted somewhere else; often with the cassette deck mounted in yet a 3rd location.
Here it is next to the current early 90s single din CD deck the car came with. Roundier 90s-ish buttons on this new one vs the UX1 but pretty similar with the equalizer and cassette. I change FM stations all the time when driving so will be good for that. Should look pretty nice in there.
Well not much to update - “refresh” at the pro shop yet to begin. Snagged some Koni yellows and the UMI 2216 tunnel mounted torque arm during the Xmas sales in the meantime. I’d put the IROC away towards Halloween..
...and while it was fun to run the Tahoe again for awhile as the snow arrived I’m now back to looking forward to May 1st.
Oh and since I was in FL for vacation took advantage of a nice New Year’s sale at Advance Auto for some minor items that will go along with the new injectors and shiftkit. (Even simple things like these would cost 3x as much in Canada)
Well it was fun rolling “sleeper style” DX3 for a few weeks after removing the incorrectly placed and tired IROC-Z door graphics that were on when I got the car...but this is not a DX3 car. Besides, the huge callouts are something most love about these cars as part of their personality including me.
This was a real “measure twice cut once” task. Props to Chazman who walked up to one of his factory perfect 88-90 IROCs and measured for the precise correct placement- there’s a looot of incorrect guidance on this topic floating around on here.
The bottom of the Z is 3.5 inches above the top of the ground effects and 4.75 inches forward of the rear door edge on my car.
There was a mint ‘02 35th anniversary red/white SS vert like four spots away...except for the .50 cal antennae. Damn man, lol
That's a familiar parking lot! Do you ever go to the Saturday night car shows in the CT parking lot at Queensway and East Mall? I'd love to see your car in person, and also hear it There are a few clean Third gen's that frequent there, not one of them that I've spoken to has ever heard of TGO though somehow. Hopefully you make it out this summer, I could also use your help loading my car on to the CAA flat bed when it decides that driving home after the show is just far too easy
You know the hood! Yes I was gonna take the ‘ROC along with my buddy and his GN to create a small late 80s GM “exhibit” but we ended up just having our own cars’n’coffee (cars’n’beers) with his neighbors in his driveway that evening lol
Love to hit one of the first ones there with ya when summer comes - Id read your ad, love that color combo! Am I to take it you wisely sold the ‘stang and held on to the GTA? :P
Haha there aren't many things as satisfying as drinking in a deck chair just staring at your cars in the driveway until 1am that's for sure. The GTA has a firm grip on my heart, but the Stang keeps my blood pressure down knowing that 2 hours from home when I turn the key, it's actually going to start Also can't complain about over 420hp from the factory instead of the neck-snapping 120 my tired 305 is putting out!
There are a few clean Third gen's that frequent there, not one of them that I've spoken to has ever heard of TGO though somehow. Hopefully you make it out this summer, I could also use your help loading my car on to the CAA flat bed when it decides that driving home after the show is just far too easy 