When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
sadly not at the moment, there is one thing you may want to do, inside the hood under the vents its all open, so any air thy pull in just circulates between the metal and won't get to the intake. be sure to box off the insides to direct the air through your openings.
sadly not at the moment, there is one thing you may want to do, inside the hood under the vents its all open, so any air thy pull in just circulates between the metal and won't get to the intake. be sure to box off the insides to direct the air through your openings.
ok thanks is in between your nose and rad all cut out
you all have answered your own question a few times ..... "air passes from the front vent to the rear" there for with you tpi guys get the intake you were discussing and mount it right behind the core support in front of the motor and high enough to were the back portion seals on the hood and the front has about a 1 inch gap. then make the hole in the bottom structure of hood match and you have ram air .... now what I did with my 86 that im building right now with a 70 gen1 350 carbed is i cut a square hole out behind the distributor in the fire wall to let air flow from under the hood out thru the vent where your wipers are and it pulls air at high speeds like a cowl hood would. if I can make it to my shop tomorrow ill take some pics of it. I have used this little trick for my hobby stock race car for years I lost 10 degrees after trying the idea that's proof enough for me to use it.... also I will fab up a display of what I mean about the tpi idea
and I apologize for spelling and grammer errors right away I never clamed to be a English teacher im just a fabricator/ mobile equipment mechanic trying to help
I haven't had one of these cars in over 20 years but this thread leaves me wondering if the '98 - 02 Firebird air cleaner would fit in this application. (with modification)
I'm actually really surprised that no one has done this mod yet. I'm currently in the process of trying to figure out how to direct the air to the filter, without the threat of water entering the filter. I have the holes cut in my hood already and I'm just waiting to get my hood back on in order to start mocking up some ideas. I'll post some pics of my current progress tomorrow.
One other consideration, opening the hood so close to the front mmight actually make it an exit not an entrance. When stationary, the radiator fan pushes air over the engine for effective cooling flow. If the path is short circuited, while at idle, components near the firewall may not be properly cooled. In older cars like the 2 place T-birds, there was an internal plate that could be removed. Factory test showed that this was not detrimental, so there must be a reason the factory didn't plate the intake.
During high speed running, ram induction might also put high pressure behind the radiator causing the flow through the radiator to stall. If you do this watch the temperature gauge while driving down the highway for signs that the radiator is operating at reduced capabilities. High velocity air running perpendicular to the intake might actually be detrimental to engine intake.
Engine compartment airflow on these low streamline vehicles is much more that just getting iar to the intake manifold.
One other consideration, opening the hood so close to the front mmight actually make it an exit not an entrance. When stationary, the radiator fan pushes air over the engine for effective cooling flow. If the path is short circuited, while at idle, components near the firewall may not be properly cooled. In older cars like the 2 place T-birds, there was an internal plate that could be removed. Factory test showed that this was not detrimental, so there must be a reason the factory didn't plate the intake.
During high speed running, ram induction might also put high pressure behind the radiator causing the flow through the radiator to stall. If you do this watch the temperature gauge while driving down the highway for signs that the radiator is operating at reduced capabilities. High velocity air running perpendicular to the intake might actually be detrimental to engine intake.
Engine compartment airflow on these low streamline vehicles is much more that just getting iar to the intake manifold.
And that is exactly why I'm going to be building an air box, so the air is properly routed to just the filter. All other components will be the same. I also don't think anyone here is trying to do this for engine cooling, I'm pretty sure we are all trying to make ram air for the intake. I do agree with your suggestion though. Just holes cut in the hood could definitely mess with underhood air circulation.
there is no functional point to opening the louvers in a ta hood. they are flat to the airflow. the louvers are purely cosmetic. to get a ram air type effect you need a scoop of some sort facing forward to collect air and force it through a baffled airbox to stop debris and rain from entering the engine.
i would suggest looking at the 2000-2002 pontiac transam ws6 ram air system as its the last of the true production gm ram air scoop systems. ive got an 01 sitting in my drive.
the louvers and hood bulges on the 80's transam and firebirds are decorative. opening them without providing some sort of filtered box or baffled box or both will do bad things over time
keep up the good work on your hood FBomb90. Looking forward to your future progress. Hope it turns out well at the end. Would like to know more about specs and dimensions if you get the chance. Willing to make a setup like this when i purchase another ride in the nearby future. It will eventually be a racer with the induction set up like what your developing.
keep up the good work on your hood FBomb90. Looking forward to your future progress. Hope it turns out well at the end. Would like to know more about specs and dimensions if you get the chance. Willing to make a setup like this when i purchase another ride in the nearby future. It will eventually be a racer with the induction set up like what your developing.
My construction has unfortunately come to a hault for a little while due to lack of funds and waiting for parts. I also have a four month old at home that requires quite a bit more attention than the bird! LOL! I'll get back to it soon and I'll be sure to post my progress.
Back from the dead! I've been thinking about opening up the rear vents to help extract heat from the engine compartment. I love the factory hood and don't see a point it butchering up the front vents. However if it's possible to open the rears to create a vacuum to pull heat out I think it would be great if it could be done without messing with the structural integrity. Has anyone tried this??
Back from the dead! I've been thinking about opening up the rear vents to help extract heat from the engine compartment. I love the factory hood and don't see a point it butchering up the front vents. However if it's possible to open the rears to create a vacuum to pull heat out I think it would be great if it could be done without messing with the structural integrity. Has anyone tried this??
I've removed my hood insulation and pulled out the foam from behind the rear vents. That's as good as it gets without removing metal.
I too have thought about this. I do t know if I want to hack the hood or not. I don't know what it is worth, and I don't hardly ever see any T/A hoods out here.
I've marked my hood underneath, for where to cut. I was thinking two rectangles with a nice piece of metal between them to help keep it rigid. From my understanding the air that enters the front vents go through the hood to the rear vents.
I've marked my hood underneath, for where to cut. I was thinking two rectangles with a nice piece of metal between them to help keep it rigid. From my understanding the air that enters the front vents go through the hood to the rear vents.
There are large holes in the hood structure between the front and rear vents about half way back that the insulation covers.
This is where the duct work meets the bumper. I would like to at some point get to cutting that square out and allowing the air coming through the grille to efficently and more accurately enter the intake.
Biggest issue is ever since i installed this intake i havent found an o2 sensor that doesnr set off my check engine light. So i think im going to get a Mass Absolute Pressure conversion done and get it reprogrammed.
Anyone who buys into the myth that the TPI Camaro aircleaner is somehow superior to the later (88-up) Firebird aircleaners, isn't thinking about the compact nature of the Camaro's air box. All the air flowing thru the filters has to turn 90* within an inch of exiting the filters. There is maybe an inch of height until after the aircleaner clears the radiator. Then the air has to flow thru the same 3.5" bottleneck as the Firebird setup. So what really is gained over a round/oval tube with the same area? Know what I mean?
Biggest issue is ever since i installed this intake i havent found an o2 sensor that doesnr set off my check engine light. So i think im going to get a Mass Absolute Pressure conversion done and get it reprogrammed.
Does your hood close properly?
I remember someone years ago saying this wouldn't;t work because the birds have too little space between the rad support and hood because of the lower hood line.
Anciant thread back from the dead. I finally did what I was thinking about when this conversation was started. All I'm doing is using it as a bit of a cool air source but I basicly just cut a hole in the webbing at the front of the hood which is sort of a channel to the front scoops (or vents or whatever you want to call them) right in front of my air filter. I tried to make it look like it was like that from the factory.
That's interesting. Nice job! Kind of like the Durango and other Ram Air hoods do Durango Ram Air . Have you tried blowing some air through the grills with a blower or something and see if a good amount of that air blows through? I'm inclining to do that myself if it works. Perhaps with a larger hole?
Last edited by Firebreather; Feb 26, 2020 at 07:43 AM.
I haven't tried anything with a fan but I did try just blowing air through one of the spare inserts I have. The mesh they used seems pretty restrictive.
I haven't tried anything with a fan but I did try just blowing air through one of the spare inserts I have. The mesh they used seems pretty restrictive.
Well, if at least some cool air gets sucked by the intake then, it's a win. It's free and it can't hurt so I will do this to my car as well. Can you confirm the hole you made actually connects to the grills ? I've been searching for ways to make the hood and fender vents functional for some time. Thanks for the info.
Last edited by Firebreather; Feb 27, 2020 at 09:32 AM.
Can you confirm the hole you made actually connects to the grills ? I've been searching for ways to make the hood and fender vents functional for some time. Thanks for the info.
Sure. I stuck a lable into the hole I made and then slid my bore scope into the channel and took a couple pics. Forgive the photo quallity of my bore scope. I made the mistake of buying the cheapest one I could find. You can see the basic shapes of the lable design though as well as the grill its self.
There's also the novel effect of being able to hear my intake through them with the hood closed
