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Finally decided that I wanted to get rid of the seats sitting in my garage. So I pulled the old crappy dark grey 4th gen seats and put in the original seats. They look so much better but have some rips. I figured it was better than having them take up room in my garage since I wont get around to recovering them any time soon. The swap took about 2 hours total, with me also sweeping and changing out the seat belt receivers for a new set I bought from Hawks. I like it, but will like it even better when they get completley recovered.
Nice work man!!! And Glad to see you saved some cash painting spoiler yourself and probably learning a little on paint as well...I’ve had good luck with color matched rattle on my truck projects....looks great 👍
Its been almost 2 weeks since I even touched the firebird, which is very disapointing. But I have been very preoccupied with work, getting the house ready for a baby in September, trying to build a fence for the dog before the baby comes and...i just got a new daily driver, which I absolutley love.
2017 GMC Sierra Elevation Edition
The car was a huge step up from my previous car, a 2012 Kia Optima, and has every option I could need and some.
neat ride, different color, here's my recent find, I had to buy the car to get the air intake! diamond in rough and needs some love! gathering parts for it now
L98 350 car
Sweet machine. Amazing how this color changes with the lighting. I'm trying to build a catalog of data on this color. Mind posting over here and tell us as much history on the car/color that you happen to know: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...um-maui-3.html
Sweet machine. Amazing how this color changes with the lighting. I'm trying to build a catalog of data on this color. Mind posting over here and tell us as much history on the car/color that you happen to know: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...um-maui-3.html
Thanks LiquidBlue, I’m not sure how much I can add but I’ll definitely check out that thread.
So it’s been awhile...like 7 months. Amazing how much time a utility job, house and baby can take lol. Anyways I finally started going back into the bird with some things I planned on doing over the winter; radio, headlight motors amd window motors. I already removed the radio and started on tge headlight motors. There are a ton of videos out there on it but then you gotta find the 3rd gens, then find the one that shows removing the assembly, then one that doesnt suck. But I finally found one and got the passenger side out in about 45 mins. Then got the driver side out in about 15. The drivers was fine but why not change both together, right? The passenger side was slightly slower going up than the driver and stuttered when shutting. Took the motor apart and found 3 nuts acting as the bushings, or whatever you want to call it. So someone half assed replaced it at one time. I think the gear is still in pretty good shape.
(If i can figure out why my pictures are uploading extra freaking large i’ll post a picture)
The driver side motor I took apart and noticiced is slightly different. The pin doesnt go through the housing like the passenger side and the gear has the “open” side face down. I can not for the life of me get the pin or gear out of the motor. Anyone know what im doing wrong?
Some guys have forced the gear out past the pinion gear I never could.
You have to take the 2 screws out of the motor housing and lift it up and out. Those screws break easy so, heat, lube and any other trick you can think of b4 you try to loosen them helps. Becareful, little ballbearing on the bottom of the shaft, motor brushes and thin shims. It's fun to put back together.
Took the motor apart and found 3 nuts acting as the bushings, or whatever you want to call it. So someone half assed replaced it at one time. I think the gear is still in pretty good shape.
neat ride, different color, here's my recent find, I had to buy the car to get the air intake! diamond in rough and needs some love! gathering parts for it now
L98 350 car
Some guys have forced the gear out past the pinion gear I never could.
You have to take the 2 screws out of the motor housing and lift it up and out. Those screws break easy so, heat, lube and any other trick you can think of b4 you try to loosen them helps. Becareful, little ballbearing on the bottom of the shaft, motor brushes and thin shims. It's fun to put back together.
I've never had any luck at all with removing the motor from the housing. I always break almost every screw no matter what I do. That gear will force out of there past the pinion gear and save you a ton of headaches. Going back in is way easier than getting it out, just a light smack and it pops right back into place.
So I either have to pull and yank that gear out of there or tear the whole motor apart? That sounds like a pain. Couldnt just easily pull out like the other side.
Finally got around to repairing my headlight motors...what a pain in the butt. I had to take the top part of it (which i was trying to avoid) and had a fun time getting it back on. Thankfully my wife was willing to help put the top piece in as I held the insides of the motor apart. TDS sent great product and directions on what to do. As well as a youtube video or two to help. Just got to get the headlights back together and in the car now.
Haha I think its one of the projects that everyone ends up having to do if you own your car long enough. I didnt anticipate having to take the top of the one motor off. That was the most confusing part as I only found 1 real good video on it. And Im the type of person that needs a video or step by step instructions.
Now I’ve been holding off on putting it all back together and in the car because I wanted to clean/paint it while its out now.
I love the pop-up headlights, but unfortunately that is a task awaiting everyone. I've done it on two past 3rd gens and a Reatta. So far so good on my '88, but a matter of time.
False alarm. I got the keys out. Weird tho. I couldnt get them out the other day so I left them and tonight I had the same problem. I finally gave them a real solid tug and they came out. Not sure what happened but atleast it ended up being a non issue.
90's were low production. From August to December. "91's were built in January.
Originally Posted by punzak9
Hi everyone,
Proud to say that after 7 years i am back in a third gen! I bought a 1990 Firebird Formula in maui blue on saturday. It's what i used to have 7 years ago, not tge exact car but exact year model and color. Took me forever to find the exact one. 90's seem to be difficult to find, let alone in the blue.
If it’s not one thing its another...got the headlights all buttoned up and back together and tested them out. The passenger side bezel must have been sitting back a little too much and when it closed it pushed itself under/behind the edge if the bumper and is now stuck. Guess I got to figure out how to get it free and then how to adjust it forward so it doesnt happen again.
Headlight bezel got stuck under the bumper, but I managed to get it unstuck. Going to try and revisit that problem and the spoiler tonight/this weekend.
Anyone know if you can slide the assembly forward to prevent the headlight from getting stuck? I know there are slotted holes for the assembly but I think its attacked to the back also and wont let it slide forward. Could be wrong.
90's were low production. From August to December. "91's were built in January.
Thanks? I dont know if you were stating something I already know or trying to tell me something or trying to say I don't have a 90...either way, thats my 90 Formula.
Took the interior cover off the inside of the rear hatch and saw that I have the wires for the aero spoiler brake light. Which I assumed because my Formula had the aero package, but just makes me wonder why someone would go through the trouble of filling the mounting holes on the rear hatch. Plug my 3rd brake light in and it was a no-go. Assuming the bulbs are bad. Now I have to figure out where I can find those replacement, 577 bulbs I think, at locally.
Finally got the spoiler on, minus the brake light which wont fit under this particular Hawks spoiler. Its not perfect, but Im still very happy with how it looks on the car.
Looks pretty good in your photos. Curious to know: did you have it professionally painted and, if so, what did it cost? I know some folks prefer the "no spoiler" look. I myself had the trunk lid of my 04 GTO "de-spoilered" by having the holes welded and painted. Don't really see it on our 'Birds, but to each his own. The only thing that would concern me about deleting the third brake light is that it helps support the center of the spoiler. I would be careful about pushing down on the center when closing the hatch; focus on the outside corners when pushing down. I imagine you figured this out, but just in case.
@rt66er I got one quote last year that was roughly $300 to paint and install. Not too bad but it was $300 I didnt want to spend. Mostly because I didnt see the point in having a newly painted spoiler while the rest of the car needs painted.
Yes, Im very conscious of the spoiler and not having the light to help support it. I only close the hatch with my hand on the deck lid and avoid the spoiler all together.
Not much work done on the car. I was going back and forth about if I should save for paint or try to do the engine first. Still not sure. On one hand, it runs pretty strong and if it was repainted (next year) I could take it to shows and cruises and feel good about it. On the other hand, I have a torn down L98 block scattered all over my work bench. And I’d be pretty nervous pulling and swapping engine with brand new paint....decisions...
Anyway I do get the car out about once a week to cruise around town. So I just snapped a few pictures in my drive way after I washed it.
Thanks Dave. The car is a solid 20 footer. Unfortunately the pictures do a good job hiding the hood, which is the major area In need of paint. The car suffered from years of wearing a “bra” by the previous owner which led to faded and worn spots at the front of the hood. Higher up the hood is severely faded, almost down to the primer. I thought about getting just the hood and headlight covers painted, but then didnt know if I wanted to just do that while the rest of the car will need repainted soon after.
TTOP350- I wasn't positive how I was going to feel about them myself either, but I am very happy with them. I do think that they look much better in person than in the pictures I take.
ksr- I absolutely agree. After owning our other car I knew I had to get this color again. I feel
that the Formulas for some reason pull it off a little better than the Trans Ams.
Your fiberglass spoiler looks good. That'll be in my future at some point. Mine isn't too bad, but it has cracking at both rear corners that isn't going to get any better.
My paint is better than a 20-footer. It looks good up close and whoever owned it for its first 29 or so years cared for it well. But there some chips and scratches. I toy with the idea of maybe getting a full paint job in a couple of years. Maybe something like lime rock green that was offered on Corvettes a couple of years ago.
Your fiberglass spoiler looks good. That'll be in my future at some point. Mine isn't too bad, but it has cracking at both rear corners that isn't going to get any better.
Same here. I have the part, but haven;t changed out the stocker just yet as it doesn't look too bad...just checking paint.
Got the car out to its first cruise this year. Couldnt decide between parking next to the 4th gen TA or this 80’s mustang. I decided to keep the eras together. Its tough to get the car out now with a 9 month old baby. Cruise is about 30 mins away, wife womt let me put the car seat in the Firebird (probably a smart decision), and she isnt too thrilled taking 2 cars to go. But she let me take it today and she drover herself and the baby up in her car. Its a nice drive. 25 minutes straight up the interstate or about 35 minutes going the backway. Perfect night for it, just wish I got a better picture.
Coming from someone who just bought a 87 Formy with original paint and plenty of chips I can tell that Dr.colorchip is your best friend. It will make small chips literally disappear. And even big noticeable chips will be camouflaged from 5 feet away.
When I get home I’ll show you the results I had.
also don’t be afraid to hit the paint with some good quality cutting compound. My car is like yours looks good from 20 feet. But up close it has severe spider wedding and environmental etching.
I am not a professional detailer by any means, but my understanding is the general rule with spiderwebs is either fill them or compound them. I tried a couple coats of Zaino but that just gave me very shiny looking spiderwebs.
Using products that are easily available anywhere I did some experimentation with compounding. Also keep in mind I’m using a cheap harbor freight dual action polisher. I first tried some turtle wax speed compound which did absolutely nothing. Then I stepped it up (in terms of cutting ability) to Meguiers ultimate compound. That seemed to work OK on some of the plastic surfaces. But overall poor results and even some hazing.
I think the old paint on my car must be hard as a rock and the low cutting compounds can’t touch it. So I bit the bullet and just got some Mequiers 105 cutting compound. That finally showed some progress.
Just be careful to put painters tape on the edges of your body panels. Don’t ask me how I know that. Mine is still a work in progress and I’ll let you know the results when I have them.
I have to admit, I tried Dr. Colorchip, and turned out NOT to be the savant at applying it that I had hoped for. Was never able to come close to getting the results, or making it look as easy as they did on TV.
But like many things, I suspect it's an acquired skill. So I'll be trying it again this summer.
ResIpsa- Thank you for all the info! I appreciate it. I might have to look into that Dr. Colorchip. I have a nice quarter/ half dollar sized chip right where yours was on the front. If I can get it to just be less noticeable for now I’d be happy. I also tried turtle was ok my hood last year...and same results as you, none. I’ll have to get a good picture of my hood but I dont think it can be saved or helped. I think cutting it any would take it down to primer, thats how faded some spots look, but Im not an expert so I might try it. Thought about going to a body shop just to see what they’d say or it they could try to bring a little life out of the paint for now.
I have to admit, I tried Dr. Colorchip, and turned out NOT to be the savant at applying it that I had hoped for. Was never able to come close to getting the results, or making it look as easy as they did on TV.
But like many things, I suspect it's an acquired skill. So I'll be trying it again this summer.
The stuff is really counterintuitive. I purchased the premium kit which came with a little pipettes for detailed application of the paint and wondered why I could never get any results. Then I watched a couple YouTube videos and finally figured it out.
You need to use 3 to 4 times as much paint as you would for a normal touch up paint application. Then you use quick swiping motions with the squeegee. If you’ve ever applied spackle to drywall the technique is similar. With a little practice you create a smooth three or 4 inch patch over the chip.
Usually I’ll let the patch dry and do another application to paint over top. Then use the dissolving solution and begin buffing around the outside perimeter of the chip. Slowly remove the paint around the chip until all that is left is the paint in the chip.
Remember, you can never apply too much because the stuff can always be buffed off with the remover solution.
On larger cracks like the one on my bumper I just try to apply as smooth as a patch as possible matching the body lines. Then I might do a little light buffing around the edges of the patch but I just leave it.
