91blkvette

Question for those of you who have run into this problem..do you use RTV on both sides of the head gasket at the location where the intake and head meet? Or on one side (block or head side)?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not sure about "problem". There is no "problem" if you do it right in the first place. I guess there could be one if you screw it up butt that's eeeeeezzzy enough to fix. If you're willing to learn, still no "problem", only, an "opportunity for a solution".

I use Ultra RTV or Right Stuff on all sides of all 3 parties in that junction. (block, heads, intake) Only enough to go maybe an inch or so along the head gasket, a VERY thin schmeeeer on both sides of the gasket around the water ports in the intake but NOT the intake ports themselves, a thin schmeeeeer on the block China walls, and of course, about a ¼" tall bead on top of the block where it meets the intake, left to cure for several hours before setting the intake on it, with another fresh thin schmeeeeeer on the surface of the intake where it meets the block "China walls" just before setting it on, then several more hours before tightening the bolts to allow the tall bead of sealant to harden and turn itself into a "gasket".

Note the different roles that the sealant plays in each location: to augment the gasket around the water ports and in the corners, to replace the stuuupid guaranteed to fail rubber thing on the "China walls", and to provide a layer of fresh uncured sealant on each side of the "China walls".

The 4 center intake bolts need thread sealant to keep oil from pooling on top of the intake. I usually use the Permatex/Loctite "hi-temp automotive thread sealant with PTFE". NOT RTV of any kind.

No leaks whatsoever EVER.

AlkyIROC

Right Stuff is the product you need. RTV can shrink and cause leaks. I don't even use china wall gaskets any more. A bead of Right Stuff and forget about it. The stuff is so good, you'll be cursing the next time you pull the intake off.

As mentioned above, a light skim around the intake manifold coolant ports will be more than enough. I put head gaskets on dry. If you have a head gasket coolant leak, you have more serious problems.

91blkvette

I have two blocks...one is a DART SHP, and the other is a Motown II. The Dart block leaks,but the Motown did not. Intake sealed similarly as to how you described. Dart block uses 1014 Felpro, 1004 on the Motown. I actually witnessed OIL leakage around the #15 bolt while the engine was running. For years I thought it was the remote oil filter setup I had to use. was causing leaks because my AHR headers negated the use of a standard oil filter.

The problem i am trying to solve here, may be traced to the head gasket, since the intake covers are not showing the UV dye I used for the leak check.

So, do you use RTV on the block and or head sides of your head gaskets at the corners interface of the three components?

91blkvette

I don't have a coolant leak. Only oil, as verified using the dye/uv light test. Valve covers are not the source, paper towel wipe downs confirm it.

And looking at the previous 1014 head gasket, which was installed dry, I can clearly see that the outer edges are compressed, and no indication of oil seepage. RTV Black used on the walls, no apparent oil leaking out the back, but the back of the heads did have some oil where they and the block "meet". Both of the surrounding areas around the oil drain back holes look darker than the other parts of the gasket, but I don't believe that's the source of my leak.