I have recently built a new motor for my car and its a lil on the extreme side. Anyways i need help tunig it and getting it running so i can drive it. I have cash for anyone who thinks that they can help me out. I live in Arlington, Tx and can be reached by e-mail @ arlockstedt@comcast.net or by cell @ 817-938-4931 anytime. Thanks for any help u guys can give. Thanks and Happy Holidays,
Aaron

 

How about a few specs. Is it carbed or injected?

 

arlockstedt, we have a local car club in the DFW area.
North Texas Thirdgen Association
www.nttga.net
I live in Grand Prairie and there are several members in Arlington as well.

What kind of engine and what are you having problems with?
Is it TPI? Are you still using the stock chip?

 

here is my setup:
I'm about to ditch the 30lb injectors and go with 36's that are on the way.

97 4-bolt 350 with roller cam setup. (bored over 0.030) complete ARP bolt kit. Blue printed and Balenced and decked 9.000
ARP studs and Diamond Stripper windage tray for the mains
Eagle 4340 forged, light-weight crankshaft 0.010 and large journal
Eagle ESP forged rods (lightweight) 5.7 H-beam with arp bolts
WISECO ProTrue pistons ( 10.3 to 1 cr with 64cc heads and a 9.000" deck )
Edelbrock hydraulic roller cam ( dur@.050 234/238 lift (1.6rr) .575/.585 lobe seperation 112* Intake centerline 107*)
CompCams Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers
CompCams Pro Magnum Roller Lifters
Edelbrock Victor Jr heads 64cc 2.08 and 1.60 valves Custom Dual Springs and Perfesionally CNC ported all the way through and ARP studed to the block.
Holley Stealth Ram Intake w/ afpr -- fully CNC ported and port match with heads
58mm Throttle Body
30lb fms injectors
Full MSD setup
Hooker SuperComp Headers Long Tubes (dual exhaust with X-pipe)
Underdrive pullies
Edelbrock aluminum high flow water pump (might install electric water pump i have)
N.O.S. 300 shot (progressive controlled) (wet) setup w/ dual purge kit

Race built 700r4 with 2400-2700 stall
Borg Warner 9bolt posi with 3.70 gears

I had a chip custom burned from a friend to get me started. I have a chip burner and extra chips but i have no clue what exactly i'm doing yet. If the motor is warm its starts up fine. If its cold.....GOOD LUCK....hard to start. Right now this car is my daily driver and i'm just looking to tune it out so i can drive it again. Thanks

 

I really doubt you need 36 lb injectors, if you were running a 383, then yeah I would suggest. Since you've got an AFPR, bump the fuel pressure about 5 psi and you'll also gain about 4 lbs/hr out of the injectors. Have you run a data recorder on it? Would help alot in determining whats going on with it.

 

i don't have a scan tool. there has to be other ways to tune....when i went for a drive i got NO codes.....no SES light. What would make the motor so hard to start when its cold?

 

I would say to start with the timing and go from there. Make sure you unplug the tan wire before you set the timing as well.

 

ok...car started drove it around like 10 miles then back to my house. Went to bed, woke up.....car started....tuned it a lil more with timing. Drove pretty nice. Went to run eruns and came back to install a 3-wire heated o2 sensor and it won't start up...it cranks...just won't start up........?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!!?! Any sugesstions?

 

WOW. You've built quite an engine there.
Do you have access to a laptop?
I use Crag Moates' scanning software on my car.
http://www.moates.net/
Have you changed your injector constant in your programming?
Do you know at what psi your injectors are spec'd at?
My Accel 24lb/hr injectors are spec'd at 42psi.
Have you messed with the crank pulses for start-up at all?
You can add or remove start-up fuel in that table.