well after a extended process of looking for a 3 gen i now am the proued owner of a 89 rs automatic. it is red has a pretty good body the motor runs a little rich but trany is sound the inside well what inside seats and dash needs to be rewired the guy that had it before realy ****ed the gages up he put in some neon thing and it is shorting and i need to file for a missing title and it was only 600 so I put pics up tomorrow arter it gets some tlc and to get that hood working it will not close and if it does it will not open thinking hood pins

 

Welcome to the world of thirdgens--Now the fun starts!

 

does any one have a under the dash wireing diagram and know how to short the horn to work right thanks yall

 

I think Coz305 just got the factory bible for thirdgens a few weeks ago, but I think he is out of town at the moment.

Try posting that question on the electronics tech board here on TGO, and/ordo a search for that in that same board.

 

thanks zap one more queastion my car stares runs good then i get home turn it off and it will not start back up the first time it did it i had to leave it aloan for 45 min them it started like nothing this time well i am still waiting ANY SUGESTIONS PLease

 

It cranks over but does not fire up? Or is it that it will not crank over?

If it won't crank over, it's the starter getting heat soaked. (actually the solonoid) There is a number of things U can do with this problem.

Refresh our memory--what engine and intake system?

Are U smelling any gas before U try to restart like it's flooding?

Might also be ignition module/coil.

Might want to again, post that question on the appropiate board and do a search. Believe me -- U are not the first person to have this person. Has probably been covered about a gazillion times--just gotta find the info and start tracking it down with some trouble shooting.

 

it is s TBI 305 and i do not smell gas before it starts when it does not start i put my key in turn it and the lighs come on battry drops and nothing happens like the battery is to low to start it (it has the same voltage on volt meter set to dc as it does when it starts but just about a 30% lower drop batter sits around 12.7 then turn key starts drops to 8.9 no start drops to 7.9)but then about a hour later i go out there and it turns right over. AI think it is the starter because it only does it after it has ran above 20 and for more that 10 min

 

Like I said in the previous, if it's not cranking, I CAN GUARANTEE U THAT IT IS THE PROBLEM!!! The solonoid is getting too hot. Go to the appropiate tech board--and search for "starter heat soak" or "wont crank". There are thousands of threads about this problem. U can put heat shields on the solonoid--mount a remote solonoid on the firewall or fender well like Fords--go to a different type aftermarket starter (what I did when I had the exact same problem).

Do U have headers on the car? That always makes the situation worse. If not U may be able to just replace the solonoid with a NEW one and problem solved. I do know that even though the book calls for a starter with the short OEM solonoid--the longer one works better because there is more windings in them--and they do fit with no problem whatsoever.

Util U get it corrected, if posible, open the hood when U park the car and it will cool faster and crank sooner--I speak from experiance!!!

 

One other thing, before I got the aftermarket mini-starter, I went out and got one of those "Ove Gloves" those hight temp oven gloves made out of high temp fabric that u see advertised nowdays (not just an oven mitt) and cut it up and wrapped the solonoid with it--worked like a champ.

The basic concept/fix is to just keep the heat out of the solonoid!!!

 

also the battery might be bad, start with that, just take it out and take it to the parts store and have them test it before you condemn it, it shouldnt drop past 9 volys while cranking...

 

thanks zap i will use a oven mit for now and i have a remote solonoid on order from summit here on wendsday and only 30 i have fixed all the electical ecept the horn i have to get a map sencer cheaked ecu codes and i have low voltage at the fuel pump and i will test the relay tomorrow morring then head to a pick and pull to get the ecu part if i have to and i need that triangal piece that makes door lock cylenders work with the rod in side the door i have mounted my hood pines they look nice i think and i am buying a new battery tomorrow do to the fact that mine is the bottem grade i am geting a optama so thanks for all the help and thank god for multimeters

 

Get the better of the 2 different red top batteries available--it's only a few dollars more and worth it for the extra amps!!! What I did!

 

k thanks again o do you have the triangle piece for the door locks the part from the door lock cylender to the rod that is inside the door

 

NO

 

are they as hard to find as i am thinking

 

Tell U the truth--I'm not quite sure what U are talking about.

I would think one of these people here on the board that is parting out cars would have one--contact them!

 

ok i fixed my servie motor light and the heat soaking problem. Well the car runs great turns righ tover and the hole thing only cost 720