Man... I've been battling overheating and coolant leak issues for the past 5 years. The previous owner was having problems as well, since he installed a manual switch to the fan, enabling the driver to turn it on and off when necessary. However, things were so bad that it was always left on in order to fight the war against overheating...

Well, I dropped off the bird for the second time at my mechanic, and it was finally fixed! (along with a new high-volume water pump, new alternator, belts, etc.)

I was actually able to run the entire 10 miles to my school without turning the fan on. When I do in fact turn the fan on, it will keep the water at approximately 170-180 degrees. Good thing I can manually turn the fan on and off, since this is way too cold for the engine.... Now I can actually switch back to an 180 or 195 degree thermostat, instead of the 160 degree thermostat that was installed for the quick fix...

What's the point of this post? Quick-fix-turned-into-permanent fixes aren't worth it! Fix it the right way, and you'll fall in love with your 3rd gen all over again! I know I have!

Cheers!

 

Why do you think 170 degrees is too cold and why do you want to put the 195 thermostat back in?

 

Some think they run better hotter, Like the dealers.. Honestly tell you the truth I been there with all this.. You know that.. Now the only way is the right way.. We know that.. Get the proper factory wiring done make the modifications with the cooling system sensors and ecu and your set..

 

im confused************ now i dont think ever in my life has being to cold been a problem accept when a car wont start lol. for real though dude you might not have to turn yer fan on for that 10 mile trip .,.these cars have an awsome design to where the air gets sucked in the faster you go.,unless its summer you might never need to flip that switch unless yer sittin still like at a drive thru,.,.,.but always keep yer eye on it any way.,.,

I drive 100 miles round trip 3 days a week and hit stop light's for brief seconds and not once does my fan have the need to come on,.,.,.but if i stop and idel for a bit the temp will rise,.,.and when it gets to a point my fan comes on like it should,.,.no prob.,.,

COLDER THE AIR THE BETTER DUDE! thats why ppl are so in to the cold air intake's.,.,.,.,cold air is not bad it is actualy good., the car performs much better with cooler air., Hell somtimes in the mornin when im drivin i have to wait for ever to turn on my heater cause the temp is low,.but then again its been below freezin in the morning for an hour or two,.,.,..,,.,..,,..,,.

 

Well, I might very well be wrong, but from what I have been told over the years, cars run most efficiently (and clean) at a certain temperature. Best of both worlds with fuel/hp in mind... Unless I'm mistaken, ours tend to be in the 200* range. Again, I might be wrong...

Sure, super-cold running cars are good at the track, when you want to make a few short runs, and HP and TQ are what's most important. But what about when fuel economy is a concern, and yes I know, I shouldn't be driving a thirdgen with an LG4 and carb if I'm concerned over my fuel economy, but sometimes you don't have a choice...

Doesn't higher temperatures mean that it runs more efficiently? A cleaner burn? I'm already running rich as it is...

 

Yes, going below 180 on a daily doesnt make much sense.

 

For what I understand.. If a slight running temp change as that.. running rich or richer would to me be more of a concern of tuning..

As for the Temps changes for me if needed would be a temp switch sensor etc.. It is for the Tpi relocated to front of the Manifold.. Deleting the Cts sensor.. Unsure what Kevin does with that in the chip tuning process.. probably something but likely once is modified and changed it's done.. So with this you can easily change the sensors out.. And the chip can be programed for the settings needed based dual fan..

With the Dfi I can easily at anytime adjust the fan Temps lower or higher.. Adjust everything else if needed..