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My T/A is going non-op.

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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:09 AM
  #1  
Russ-So Cal's Avatar
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From: Lakewood, ca. USA
My T/A is going non-op.

My T/A is due for registration/smog this month. 2 years ago, the smog guy had to cheat to get it to pass. Looking back and with what I've learned since then, I think my egr valve may need cleaning and possibly the egr passages may be plugged up. I've also got an oil burning problem. I've stopped all of the external leaks except a little weeping at front and rear main seals, but it smokes and uses 1 quart of oil with every fill up. I've debated about what to do and considered doing valve guide seals with the heads installed, but I just don't know what the internals of the engine look like. I would hate to do the seals and then find that I have a broken ring or scored cylinders causing the problem! My garage is almost finished, the roofer should be here to finish the roof up on Monday or Tuesday next week, and then I can put the car in the garage to work on it. I've decided to pull the heads and send them out for a complete refurbish, and that way I can inspect the cylinders for any damage. I also intend to take it to an interior shop and have a complete new interior installed before I register it. Trying to drive it and fix things up piecemeal just isn't working for me.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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From: Usa
Car: 85 IROC-Z
Engine: magflatoVE
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" 411
Re: My T/A is going non-op.

I think a good way to start diagnosing is to do cylinder leak down test. At least you would know if it's valves or rings or both. you can pick cylinder leak down tester under $40 at Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94190

just my
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 01:31 PM
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From: I won't tell either
Car: 1986 Grand Prix TPI
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 200 4R
Re: My T/A is going non-op.

I would think it would be less hassle to pay the DMV fees then when its smogable get it smogged.
If you pay the fees on time there is no $$ penality, you get a receipt for the money but no tags.
Also, if you have the heads off, might as well do the whole thing, good valve sealing will just make the ring blow by worse.
You can borrow my engine stand in trade for a AC conv I'll pay for the freon etc.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 01:50 PM
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Russ-So Cal's Avatar
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From: Lakewood, ca. USA
Re: My T/A is going non-op.

I have an engine stand, Tom; but I'd be glad to do an a/c conversion. I have a "busy body" neighbor who sends in a complaint anonymously every time a strange car shows up in my driveway and the hood goes up, so I would need to either do the a/c at Don's shop or wait until I have room for 2 cars in my garage.

Regarding a full rebuild, I don't think I have either low compression or leaking valves, just guide seals. I have had the engine get too hot a couple of times, so I want to see if there are any score marks on the cylinder walls. When it got hot, I shut it down immediately both times. the worst case was when the plastic end cap on the rad broke off. I think the engine only has about 40-50k miles on it since Don rebuilt it before we put it in my car.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 05:04 PM
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From: I won't tell either
Car: 1986 Grand Prix TPI
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 200 4R
Re: My T/A is going non-op.

Gotta love neighbors that dont have enough to do.

We could do it here too, more room than dons shop.
Probably a waste of time on the GP, I drive it so seldom and since I dont like AC anyway I am sure the compressor seals have hardened. It was a new compressor in 1997 or 8.
I am thinking about the conv as I am planning a trip with it. But the seals are probably shot in it too.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 06:27 PM
  #6  
Russ-So Cal's Avatar
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From: Lakewood, ca. USA
Re: My T/A is going non-op.

There is a shop I've taken compressors to in Westminster. It is owned by orientals, but they rebuild compressors for about $120.00 or so depending on model. I think the G.M. types I've taken to them have cost $115.00-$120.00 to rebuild. Typically the turn around time on a rebuild is about 3 hours. I don't like to exchange compressors because I don't know how long the compressor has been on the shelf. A compressor sitting on a shelf tends to soak up moisture and start rusting the steel parts internally.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 10:18 PM
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From: I won't tell either
Car: 1986 Grand Prix TPI
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 200 4R
Re: My T/A is going non-op.

Thats a good price.\
When I rebuilt the GP I had some hot shot outfit, Classic air or something in GG, first they rebuilt mine and it lasted 3 days so I bought a new compressor and first they didnt want to return mine, then they wanted to charge me a core charge and charge me for the freon again. IIRC it was ~$600 the first time and ~$1200 the 2nd time. So I still have my original GP compressor.
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 10:19 PM
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From: I won't tell either
Car: 1986 Grand Prix TPI
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 200 4R
Re: My T/A is going non-op.

I might just do the GTA then if its only $120 to rebuild the compressor and they do a good job. OF course with my luck...........
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 10:40 AM
  #9  
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From: Lakewood, ca. USA
Re: My T/A is going non-op.

I have had a bunch of compressors rebuilt there. Some of them, Ihaven't heard anything about how long they lasted. I had them do the one on myh Saturn a year ago and it is still working fine. The one done for Alex's T/A ended up being noisy and I took it back a couple of times, and they were insisting that it wasn't the compressor, but the idler. Alex sold the car before that one was resolved, but that is the only bad one that I know of.
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