I'm trying to just see if you are satisfied with you ride quality.

My last car I was running Kenny Brown's, PolyE on the rear and rubber on the body as recommended. With lowered spings and good shocks/struts the ride was not all that bad. The poly bushings squeak a bit down rough roads, and it handled queity and percisely on the freeway.

Right now I'm running what's in my signiture. The poly bushing are driving me nuts. I heard to try and pressure wash them, have not got to that yet. I'll get some more grease too, but they got 2k miles on them, they should not need it. It may also be that the suspension is just too loose. The stock WS-6 package on these cars ain't really all that, that is except for the front sway bar.

Well all this led me to a little reaserching. Global West has some knowledgeable advice on how to choose bushing. Check it out, I was suprised at first, but after reasoning with it, I believe firmly in what they are saying: PolyE SUCKS!

http://www.globalwest.net/camaro93.htm#Rear tubular control arms

They too recommend that the poly end be on the back. Steve Spohn, what is you reasoning for running poly on the body? I might reverse them to see if it makes any difference and report the results.

Now polygraphite is not as bad. The difference is that it is injected with graphite to provide constant lube on the molecular level. But I would lead to believe that it would cold flow just like polyurethane.

I personally do not suggest using polyurethane sway bar component, opt for the polyG;s. I might even go back to rubber on the links cause these drove me crazy on the back of my 89. I had polyG's on the 89 A-arms and I am in the process of swapping them up in the 90. They really didn't make that much noise, just maybe in a bad parking lot or street.

DEL-A-LUM
This stuff is on the edge on bushing technology. Look at this site to get the lowdown on it.

http://www.globalwest.net/camaro93.htm

GW makes them for the front A-arms for our cars only so far. But I have had the opportunity to ride in a friends Mustang that had LCA's with spherical up front and DEL-A-LUM out back. He let the clutch out hard from a stop into a turn and the car just hooked with no felling of shift front/back or side/sidel. Didn't sqeak either.

I've been trying to see if anyone out there makes DEL-A-LUM bushings that would work with my spohn's. Either that, or I might just go all spherical. Anyone else experiment with these combo's.

One more Mustange comments. (I know I know , but it pertains to our cars) Global West has developed a torque arm set up (FOKIN COPY CATS). What they say about it however brings up an interesting question. It says that if you run a torque arm set up on with POLY or DEL busings, that using a panhard bar should not be used since it will cause bind.

This right here sums up a lot of important ideas from the words of Global West:

A few words about rear lower control arms..... One of the biggest mistakes a person
makes is to put on a set of lower control arms that use polyurethane or poly-graphite bushings!
If the car is going to be used as a drag car and not used on the street. We have found it would be
an acceptable situation. However, when polyurethane is used on the street or for road racing
application, the suspension takes on a tremendous amount of bind. Many people interpret
that tight feeling as something desirable, but in fact, what they are really feeling is the suspension
binding up which in turn, can cause an oversteer condition. The car will also have a tendency to
unload the inside rear tire when going through a turn.

BIG PROBLEM:
If both the upper and lower control arms are fitted with polyurethane bushings, the situation gets
even worse. NOW, you have eight suspension pivot points in bind instead of four.

The bottom line is this:

Polyurethane, polygraphite or any other material that does not allow proper rear end
movement including muti-poly bushings will put the suspension in bind!

I know we only have 2 contol arms, but with a spohn torque arm kit with a spherical bushing(or DEL-A-LUM!!!! if he offered it!)I would be willing to test drive my car w/o the panhard bar to see if some bind goes away.

YAK YAK YAK, can ya tell I'm done with finals and have time for the garage finally.

 

With my Spohn adj LCA's and PanHard bar, I'm running poly on the body and spherical on the rear.

For my front end, it's Guldstands poly a-arm and 36mm sway bar bushings, along with his end-link kit. And Moog H/D balljoints.

I have a little more road noise, as expected, but it's acceptable, as this is a daily driver (11 miles to/from work) and my track (road race) car.

I've changed the front and rear springs (and their rates) and added ride height adjusters from Ground Control to better setup the differences in tracks.

I guess it all comes down to what you really want out of the car. I wanted something fast, slot car in nature and completely adjustable with the acceptance that the ride quality would diminish when pushed. But when you know you can sustain just over a 'g', then I feel it was worth it.

 

How bad do the squeak???

I hear them just bouncing on the car, even getting in and out of the car.

If you could not tell I got the same set up as you. I'm putting in my Jamex springs and I opted for air bags at all four corners to adjust ride height and hopefully add a little more comfort when needed, just have to hit a switch to the compressor. Plus I can preload the the rear corner for draggin.