1LE Fronts started.

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May 28, 2002 | 10:59 PM
  #1  
I finally started doing my 1LE FRONT brake upgrade.

I'm considering leaving the stock combination valve in there and seeing how it works.

I have the proper valve sitting on my workbench, but I'm curious as to how the OE valve will work?? will the rear have to much bias or too little bias?? (my car came with the big rear disk from the factory in 89)

what do-ya guys think????
Larry
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May 28, 2002 | 11:53 PM
  #2  
Maybe Andy could pipe in on this one. I'm gonna go ahead and change mine out for my swap, it should be here by the weekend. Also, are you changing out the M/C?

Any hints from anyone on "bench bleeding" the M/C? I don't have a bench vise so I guess I could do it in the car?

Good luck Larry.

Ed
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May 28, 2002 | 11:58 PM
  #3  
Tilt the car
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May 29, 2002 | 12:38 AM
  #4  
"Tilt the car"


I take it tilt the car to the passenger side to get the brake line ports higher?

Thanks..

Ed
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May 29, 2002 | 04:55 AM
  #5  
Replace the proportioning valve when you do your front upgrade.

As far as bench bleeding goes. I think it is a waste of time. I do not do it on my cars.
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May 29, 2002 | 06:56 AM
  #6  
yeah but wouldn't you want to know why your replacing it ??
anybody could say because it's the "listed" valve for the application. But I want to know how the old valve will work.

right now my front - rear bias is perfectly fine on my 89.

I know someone who did a 4 wheel 1LE upgrade (from drums), and started locking up the rears. Then he got the correct combo valve and was still locking up the rears, although not as bad.

so I think I am going to try the OE combo valve and see how it works out. all it will cost me is an extra bleeding if I have to change it down the road.

----------
Ed, I always bench bleed my M/C's on the car. I just didn't hook up the brake lines until I pumped it a few times. It could make a mess though if you car about your paint. and my M/C don't need to be changed for 89. only the prop valve is different.
Larry
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May 29, 2002 | 09:04 AM
  #7  
Tilt the car means lift the rear until the Master cylinder is level (the metal part, not the plastic reservoir.

I suggest putting the front tires on boards or something if you try this. I got mine good enough, but the front bumper was touching the ground, and I don't have any ground effects.
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May 29, 2002 | 10:25 AM
  #8  
yep ...
raise the rear until the MC is level or slightly "up" in the rear...
Yes this is "messy" way to do it
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May 29, 2002 | 05:49 PM
  #9  
Ok, got it...Thanks guys..
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May 30, 2002 | 09:23 AM
  #10  
Hey Larry ...
... you won't need to change the PV with your setup.

I, too, have the 9 bolt with the PBR calipers and the big 11.7" rotors out back.

I, too, did the SSBC 1LE front brake upgrade.

That proportioning valve will work. If you had a drum rear then you'd of had to change it.

And I've never 'bench bled' my M/C. Just thorough bleeding at the wheel, starting at the RR and ending at the LF.

1LE Fronts started.-after.jpg  

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