Hi guys. Well, rear calipers don't work, so I replaced them with new ones.

Well, when bleeding the breaks, I couldn't get ANY fluid to come out.

Checked the lines all the way up to the master cylinder/ booster combo thing where you pour the fluid.

Ok, there is this odd flat-ish aluminum block shaped thing that the lines exit the master cylinder into. It has a electrical plug in the middle, where the two break lines enter into it.

In the front and back of it, it has two like 19mm mini bolts which have springs attatched to them on either site. On the bottom, the two break lines exit out.

This blocky tetris shaped break thing is what is clogged up. What is it, so I know what to replace? I don't know if it's some electronical proportioning valve or what, it confuses the hell out of me.

 

Here is the best pic I could find online of it:

<img src="http://free.homegrownvideo.com/wtf.jpg"></img>

Ok, I was looking through my helms manual, and this part is called a "Combination Valve"

It has to be replaced as one unit. Does anyone know the part number for this? hoping it isn't too expensive.

 

Yes its called the combination valve and its also called the proportioning valve. There have been a few posts in the recent days regarding it, just do a search and you'll find the part numbers you're looking for. I'd also check to make sure your lines haven't collapsed first.

 

Alot of times this valve will stick when you lose your brakes while driving the car. Is the brake light in the dash on? Try spiking the brake pedal hard a couple of times to get the light to go off. If that don't work if you can, tap the valve with a hammer. When the light goes out then you should be able to bleed the back brakes.

 

If you are working towards more control over your braking system, I recommend gutting the combination valve, keeping it, and installing a proportioning valve in the line to the rear brakes. In my opinion, for performance, things like the combo valve and the iron rear calipers combine as a lousy testament to performance. Naturally many will recommend you not listen to my recommendation, but the choice is yours.

 

Actually, the break pads on the rear calipers hadn't had a hint of wear in the 4+ years ive owned the car.

I took it into a shop to replace the front pads with new ones reccomended by people here (the little bit of squeaking in the front bugged me) at a shop, and they told me the rear calipers were binding, and that i needed new ones.

Well, moved to colordo, and now that I can work on my car here, replaced the calipers and pads, we tried to bleed it, and nothing would come out of the rear line.

Like i said earlier, we did find the 'clog' or whatever to be in the combiniation valve.

Actually, after all this screwing with things, my break light IS on, for the first time ever.

Haven't tried hitting it with anything though. We took out the rear break spring section of the thing a few times, and pumped the breaks, lettign it shoot out fluid, but when we disconnect the bottom line, still nothing. No sure what is wrong with it, but it's $58.00 including shipping from gmpartsdirect.com. I figure I'll call a few dealerships today, and see what the local price is, and if it's in stock, otherwise I'll wait until next weekend to install the shipped one. I'm sure as hell not driving it now!

I figure with a working combo valve, I will suddenly have better breaks, as my rear breaks will be working for the first time ever.

(hey, I went from driving a chevy sprint to my camaro, so I never knew the rear breaks weren't working. I just figured it was a heavier car)