Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

spongy brake pedal

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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 07:30 PM
  #1  
1991tealRSt-topGuy's Avatar
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
spongy brake pedal

i did my rear brakes a little over a year ago, and i never adjusted them yet

could this be causing a spongy brake pedal? it honestly feels like the rear brakes (drums) arent even working

i checked the fluid and it was full, i didnt notice any leaks either

please help, because i need my car in the morning

thanx
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 09:02 PM
  #2  
AlkyIROC's Avatar
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Bleed your brakes. Spongy brakes means you have air in the system. Hydraulics don't compress under pressure but air does.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 11:28 AM
  #3  
MdFormula350's Avatar
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From: Maryland; USA
yeah bleed the brakes and get that air out, if that does not work you might need new brake hoses..
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 12:53 PM
  #4  
FyreLance's Avatar
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From: Huber Heights, OH
Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
If you start getting a hissing noise when you push down the pedal and the problem gets worse, you'll need a power brake booster.

But yeah, I'd guess bleeding the brakes'd do it.
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 03:58 AM
  #5  
1991tealRSt-topGuy's Avatar
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
well, i did indeed replace a brake hose yesterday because whenever i braked hard, my car would pull to that side

then i bled my front brakes, seemed to get a little better, but not much

i'll mess with it more today after work

thanx guys
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 04:26 AM
  #6  
ctandc's Avatar
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From: Virginia
Do yourself a favor, bleed the brakes the free and easy way.

Start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. Put a piece of clear tubing over the bleeder. Run the tube into something to hold the fluid. Take the cover off the master cylinder and top it off w/ fluid. Now crack that first bleeder screw open and leave it alone. Every so often check on the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't run low on fluid. Gravity will do all the work for you. In my experiece, it usually takes about 10-15 minutes per wheel. After letting each one bleed, close the bleeder screw off and move the next wheel, always doing the furthest one from the MC next. This is a good time to go ahead and get all the old nasty fluid out. Just wait until the fluid coming from each wheel is clear, then move on.

The only way that's better than this method is having access to a vacuum pump to force bleed the system.

HTH
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