I read through the archives and found some info from a few years back - but it looks like some were happy with them and some weren't. I'm concerned about the issue of them lowering the back more than the front (a few guys mentioned this).

I have stock ws6 springs with about 110,000miles on them. The fronts are great (but could use a drop) but I think the rears have gotten a little spongy over time.

I want to lower the car no more than 1.5 inches and I want a spring that's better (stiffer) than the ws6's - both a little stiffer and lower. Is the Jamex set a good spring in place of the ws6 ones?

The other option would be to cut the stock ws6 ones increasing the spring rate and lower too (free). I need opinions though.

Thanks,
Steve

 

I've been really happy with my Jamex springs and they didn't lower the rear of the car more than the front. Many people on this board seem to have trouble installing new springs and most likely don't get them seated correctly. This will cause the front end to sit higher.

The biggest problem you'll run into is trying to locate a set of Jamex springs. Jamex no longer has a warehouse in the U.S. making their springs hard to come by.

 

Bret, how much of a drop did you get? - and how is it in the corners. I want it to be flat as a board under cornering (well, close). My ws6 springs are pretty good but I think they're starting to loosen up with age.

 

Jamex advertises a 1.5" drop but I'd say my car dropped closer to 2". A buddy of mine has Jamex springs on his '89 IROC and feels his car dropped 2" as well.

My car handles great in the corners, but the springs are just one part of the equation. What other suspension mods do you have? You will notice a difference with new lowering springs but you should also install better LCA's, LCA relocation brackets, Panhard Bar, Strut Tower Brace and a good set of SFC's.

I would also inspect the front end – bushings, balljoints, tie rod ends, idler arm and center link. As long as you have the front end apart to swap springs it's a good time to address these other parts. Once it's all back together get to an alignment shop.

 

I'll be doing the front end this winter (ball joints, tire rods, center link...etc.) In the back, I'll be getting spohn's panhard rod with the springs. I already have spohn's lca's which I love (they totally eliminated my wheel hop problem). Do you think the LCA's relocation brackets are necessary with the Jamex springs?

 

actually you are supposed to need them more if you have lowering springs to correct the geometry of the suspension.

Ben

 

Yes, they are necessary. With Jamex springs in back your LCA's will be higher on the axle side and your wheel hop will return. The relocation brackets will let you set the LCA's parallel to the ground.

 

Don't like the idea of relocation brackets. I think I'll go with Eibach pro kit that only lowers 1". Thanks all!

 

What dont you like about them? They say that they even help on a stock car and if you lower it at all you should definately get them.

Ben

 

Any time you lower your car, even 1", you start to change the suspensions geometry, it goes beyond just the rear LCA's. if you don't care about performance what so ever, and don't care about any advers performace effects of lowering you car 2", then by all means go for it. if you want the some performance without having to worry about changes to the car beyond springs, get STOCK Ws6 replacements.

 

Dewey is right (again! ) I have H&R springs in mine that lowered the car just a little over an inch, but that inch brought on massive wheel hop when you get on the gas pedal. LCA brackets to be installed soon!

 

Although it would be nice to fill in that damn wheel well a bit - I don't think I like the tradeoffs though. if I had a camaro, i'd definitely drop it but the gta for some reason doesn't look as good slammed. hmm, i think I'll just get ws6 replacements (and possibly cut a quarter or half coil off the fronts and a quarter off the rears... Damn, these will be a bitch to install though...

 

What do you mean your GTA won't look good dropped? Mine does and it sure beats the 4wd look our cars have stock. I had my doubts before I lowered my car (didn't think I wanted to deal with having another lowered car), but I was extremely pleased after I did it. I received a few compliments at how much better my car looked after installing my Jamex springs.

A 1.5" or even 2" drop won't be that severe.

 

Bretd,
That's pretty much exactly how my car looks (minus the drop of course) and I must say it looks pretty damn good.)

I think more than anything - I'm just worried about losing handling and the return of wheel hop...

Thanks for all the input.

Steve

 

there is an easy solution, take the extra step and ad the Brackets... i really don't understan why you are so unwilling to add the brackets?

maybe you can shed some light for me as to why exactly you don't want the relocation brackets?

 

Well, it's the damn welding part. I don't personally know a good welder. I guess a muffler shop can probably weld them on without a problem...hmm, don't like the idea of hacking **** up back there though.
Also, it doens't say anything about 7.75" 9 bolts on the website. I wonder how they fit on these AND, is there cutting required to remove the old mounts?

 

No cutting, it is an easy job. the brackets fit over the existing brackets and the are welde on,

if welding is by no means an option, BMR makes a BOLT IN KIT. it wouldnt' be my first choice, i would rather have somthing like that welded in. adding brackets is by no means a hack job, all it does is extent and reinforce the brackets that are there from the factory.

also , it shouldn't cost much at all to have a shop weld them on either, (read less than $100)

i think that those and the baer bumpsteer kit (since you are rebuilding the front end) and that should be all you need and of course your lowering springs

 

??i]Originally posted by Steve89GTA [/i]
I think more than anything - I'm just worried about losing handling and the return of wheel hop...[/QUOTE]

Steve,
You won't lose any handling by lowering the car. In fact, you'll improve the handling.

As for the relocation brackets, they are an easy install and NO cutting is required. They simply slip over the existing brackets on the rear end and bolt into place. They do also need to be MIG welded unless you go with the BMR bolt-on version as mentioned by Dewey 316.

I have the Borg Warner 9 bolt/3.27 rear end in my GTA and had no trouble with the brackets. A local shop charged me $50 to install and MIG weld them and it took all of about 30 minutes to do the job right. I'm using the Steve Spohn brackets.

 

Would I be able to install the sphon brackets in my garage and then drive over to the muffler shop to have them welded on?
Or will I have to go with the BMR units in this case?

 

I wouldn't recommend it. With the Spohn or Global West brackets, they should be welded before attempting to drive the car.

If you prefer bolt-on, I'd go with the BMR brackets. They look like nice pieces and you shouldn't have any trouble with them. Here's more info:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F3-chassis.htm#cab

 

it would be a waste of time to install them, then drive to have them welded

NOT TO MENTION VERY DANGEROUS.

just take them in a box, lift the car up, unbolt the ONE lca from the rear end, slip the braket on, weld, bolt LCA back up, unbolt second LCA, slip on , and weld, rebold LCA, and you are done.

 

I have the BMR Bolted in ones and I love them. They are bolted in good and aint going anywhere.

 

Ditto w/ me. I installed them about two years ago and they work great. I eliminated the wheel hop by installing Hotchkis rear suspension package. Now it handles great and looks a lot better.