How does my plan look? Should the torque arm be first or last?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,712
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From: Midwest City, Oklahoma
Car: '87 Z
Engine: 355 in the works
Transmission: 700R4
How does my plan look? Should the torque arm be first or last?
I was wondering, should a new torque arm be first or last on my list of things to do? This is my current plan of attack, I will have ALL of these sooner or later...
* = I already have
16x8 IROC-Z 85-87 Wheels*
Goodyear Eagle GS-C P245/50-16*
GM 'Wonder Bar' Steering brace*
Spohn Sub-Frame Connectors*
Spohn 3 point Strut Tower Brace
Spohn Sway Bars - Solid 4140 Chrome Moly
Spohn Lower Control Arms - Std. Tubular with Poly Bushings(Chrome Moly)
Spohn Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
Spohn Panhard Bar - Adjustable with Poly Bushings(Chrome Moly)
Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm - 700R4/T-5 Transmission
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
KYB GR-2 shocks/struts
So I'm wondering, should the torque arm be first or last on my list? It's described on spohn's website like a miracle part, it helps ALOT of different things with just one single part. The stages I was thinking were:
1 - strut brace, springs, shocks/struts
2 - panhard bar, LCA's and brackets
3 - swaybars
4 - torque arm
Also, with all of this, how many g's do you think I'd pull? I was thinking in class today, I don't know much about this whole thing lateral G stuff, but would it even be plausable on the 16x8's with 245/50-ZR16 tires, or would I need to step up to 17's? Thanks. I'd like to learn as much as possible about anything here if someone would like to enlighten me and point me in a straighter direction... I'm basically going for killer handling, since I don't think my car will be fast any time soon.
* = I already have
16x8 IROC-Z 85-87 Wheels*
Goodyear Eagle GS-C P245/50-16*
GM 'Wonder Bar' Steering brace*
Spohn Sub-Frame Connectors*
Spohn 3 point Strut Tower Brace
Spohn Sway Bars - Solid 4140 Chrome Moly
Spohn Lower Control Arms - Std. Tubular with Poly Bushings(Chrome Moly)
Spohn Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
Spohn Panhard Bar - Adjustable with Poly Bushings(Chrome Moly)
Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm - 700R4/T-5 Transmission
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
KYB GR-2 shocks/struts
So I'm wondering, should the torque arm be first or last on my list? It's described on spohn's website like a miracle part, it helps ALOT of different things with just one single part. The stages I was thinking were:
1 - strut brace, springs, shocks/struts
2 - panhard bar, LCA's and brackets
3 - swaybars
4 - torque arm
Also, with all of this, how many g's do you think I'd pull? I was thinking in class today, I don't know much about this whole thing lateral G stuff, but would it even be plausable on the 16x8's with 245/50-ZR16 tires, or would I need to step up to 17's? Thanks. I'd like to learn as much as possible about anything here if someone would like to enlighten me and point me in a straighter direction... I'm basically going for killer handling, since I don't think my car will be fast any time soon.
well you should do the torque arm when you have the shocks off and the panhard bar off! so the rear end will be lower and loose so you can get those bolts big bolts out of the old torque arm from rear end.....
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,271
Likes: 171
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
You're going for handling. When my suspension was still considered stock I was going for straight line accelleration.
1. Removed front sway bar, SFC
2. LCA, Panhard bar, Torque arm
3. LCA relocation brackets
4. Air bags in rear springs
I never touched the shocks or struts until I changed the whole suspension. I still use the IROC rear springs and have V6 front springs.
I think in your case the torque arm should be last.
1. Removed front sway bar, SFC
2. LCA, Panhard bar, Torque arm
3. LCA relocation brackets
4. Air bags in rear springs
I never touched the shocks or struts until I changed the whole suspension. I still use the IROC rear springs and have V6 front springs.
I think in your case the torque arm should be last.
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 563
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From: Pflugerville, TX USA
Car: 1999 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1 V8
Transmission: T-56 6spd
Your plan sounds really good. You are using quality parts so that right there means alot. In my opinion, shocks, struts, pan hard rod, control arms, and relocation brkts should be first. This will greatly improve the all around handling of your car. The wonder bar, sway bars, bushings, and STB are easy bolt on stuff you can do at any time and will not effect the adjustments you have dialed in on your adj. parts. What type of goals are you looking to achieve with your suspension? Are you wanting straight line perf or Auto-X?
I'd also do the torque arm while you're doing the springs, shocks on the rear suspension. I believe you have to drop the axle for the torque arm and springs, so you might as well do it then, rather than drop it again later.
What about poly suspesion mounts? I think that REALLY helped my car out. Only $130 for a front and rear kit too.
Of course if you're really nuts, there are aluminum bushings available.
What about poly suspesion mounts? I think that REALLY helped my car out. Only $130 for a front and rear kit too.
Of course if you're really nuts, there are aluminum bushings available.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 0
From: Midwest City, Oklahoma
Car: '87 Z
Engine: 355 in the works
Transmission: 700R4
Well, my goals are the best handling possible without TOO much of a harsh ride. I can live with it being harsh, and might take it on an 8 hour trip maybe once a year if even at all. Like I said, I know my car isn't fast so I want to make it out-handle anything that's possible. I've thought about autoX too, so I'd like it to be setup for that if I go into it...
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,842
Likes: 0
From: Woodland Hills, CA USA
Car: Yes...
Engine: Last time I checked...
Transmission: See "Engine"...
Do the torque arm last. It's a fairly easy install and there's no need to undo the shocks. Just simply lower the axle enough to get the bolts out.
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