Lowering & Suspension Geometry Q's...
Lowering & Suspension Geometry Q's...
Now that I have SFC's, 3-pt STB, and a Steering Brace installed and I'm looking into lowering my GTA. I'd like to lower it about 1 1/2 inches in the front and 1 inch in the rear. I don't want to do this for appearance, but more for handling. I'm considering using my car for Auto-X.
Exactly what parts (Please give me manufactuer names and part #'s if you have them) do I need to do all of this and of course keep the suspension geometry correct for better handling?
I already plan all new Polygraphite bushings and I plan on a brake upgrade also....
Exactly what parts (Please give me manufactuer names and part #'s if you have them) do I need to do all of this and of course keep the suspension geometry correct for better handling?
I already plan all new Polygraphite bushings and I plan on a brake upgrade also....
Alex
You already have a factory autoX car. Also what a great way to keep the miles low
nittos tires and your set..................
here what I'll be adding soon, spohn TA, and adjustable wonder bar, andy 1LE brake kit instead of the SLP wheels up grade.
I think this is the perfect combo including what I have in my sig, but then again I am are sure someone here will disagree.
Oh, also soon to be upgraded, accell #23 flow matched by Rich and accel AFPR. In addition a AutoXray on the way as we speak to help learn about power tuning
This summer will fly bye
nittos tires and your set..................
here what I'll be adding soon, spohn TA, and adjustable wonder bar, andy 1LE brake kit instead of the SLP wheels up grade.
I think this is the perfect combo including what I have in my sig, but then again I am are sure someone here will disagree.
Oh, also soon to be upgraded, accell #23 flow matched by Rich and accel AFPR. In addition a AutoXray on the way as we speak to help learn about power tuning
This summer will fly bye
Jesus christ, don't buy Nitto tires. Check out Tireracks website, and punch in competition tires- they will display the proper tires for Auto-cross. If you run street tires they will go away on you within a good 10secs of twisties- the rubber is too hard for Autocross.
As for your suspension, the best thing I can recommend is stiff springs and roadrace shocks. What lb springs you ask? every car is different based on engine size, curb weight, and weight bias. Its something everybody has to fine out for themself based on individual driving style as for what you'll like the best ( do you trailbrake or are you a gas-on-gas-off driver). There are so many geometry varibles that will affect handling that if one is different in two identical cars, it could be the difference of one car pushing and the other car loose- something as simple as the LCA rear mount location in the relocation brackets.
Its these little things that make a car faster than the competition in the corners, noone can tell you how to set up your car race wise over the internet, your car would have to be drivin individually and tweaked accordingly to what you change and most importantly what you don't change.
This is an arrogant statement but, I can drive anyones car and figure out a way geometry or component wise to make it handle better. But I can not tell you a thing without driving it.
As for your suspension, the best thing I can recommend is stiff springs and roadrace shocks. What lb springs you ask? every car is different based on engine size, curb weight, and weight bias. Its something everybody has to fine out for themself based on individual driving style as for what you'll like the best ( do you trailbrake or are you a gas-on-gas-off driver). There are so many geometry varibles that will affect handling that if one is different in two identical cars, it could be the difference of one car pushing and the other car loose- something as simple as the LCA rear mount location in the relocation brackets.
Its these little things that make a car faster than the competition in the corners, noone can tell you how to set up your car race wise over the internet, your car would have to be drivin individually and tweaked accordingly to what you change and most importantly what you don't change.
This is an arrogant statement but, I can drive anyones car and figure out a way geometry or component wise to make it handle better. But I can not tell you a thing without driving it.
Last edited by AFreaknGoodTme; Jan 16, 2003 at 01:08 AM.
He's right. For the best roadracing setup possible, your best bet is to buy as many adjustable parts as you can and experiment. There is no 'for sure' handling setup. There are just too many variables. You can buy 'regular' parts for better than stock performance. But for the best you need adjustable stuff. Here's a quick and dirty:
Springs
Struts
Shocks
LCA Relocation Brackets
Baer Bumpsteer Kit
Adjustable Panhard Bar
But thats just the beginning...
Springs
Struts
Shocks
LCA Relocation Brackets
Baer Bumpsteer Kit
Adjustable Panhard Bar
But thats just the beginning...
lowering springs..
http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...ategoryid=1071
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, 1982-1992 V8 F-body (1" Drop Front & Rear)
1 inch around is all i could find..
http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...ategoryid=1071
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, 1982-1992 V8 F-body (1" Drop Front & Rear)
1 inch around is all i could find..
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 1
From: Hawaii
Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Built L98
Transmission: T-56 6 speed
when you drop a camaro you screw up the suspension geometry. A 1" drop is kinda okay...but even that makes the geometry off wack. The best option? getting adjustible weight jack setup from ground control. And hten getting 2" drop spindles. That way you can lower your center of gravity. Yet at the same time raise up the suspension. That way you dont screw up teh geometry. I just won some drop spindles off ebay. their pretty hard to find now days for our cars. Since they were dis continued awhile back.
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