Need advice on changing lower ball joints....
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Need advice on changing lower ball joints....
A few months back I had a run in with a curb because of some jerk with road rage and my alignment has been messed up ever since then. I decided that since my tie rods needed replaced I'd go ahead and change those and then go get it aligned. I changed the inner and outer tie rods and then took it to get it aligned. When I did, they told me they couldn't align it and showed me that my centerlink bushing were shot. So last weekend I got out and changed my centerlink. I now have a new centerlink, tie rods tha are only months old, and an idler arm that's less than a year old. So I took the car back to get the alignment done and now they showed me my lower ball joints. Both lower ball joints are literally only held in by the grease fittings. My question is .... how much of a pain is it to change the ball joints and is this even something I can do myself??? I've heard that they have to be pressed in or something .... is there any truth to that?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,392
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From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,392
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From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
just be sire when you do this, you don't ruin the little hole where the grease fitting will go. use a socket the diameter of the ball joint. or something flat all the way across the bottom of the ball joint like in the pic. last thing you want is to get the ball joint in only to find out you ruined that area.
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 4
From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
yeah my camera sucks. if you can crack a control arm with a 10# hammer, you're better than i am. done it to 4 cars already including my own.
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Concord, NC
Car: 86 IROC-Z
Engine: Superramed 355 w/ intercooled T72
Transmission: T56 -=- www.iroc-ss.com
Go with the press. They are free rentals at Auto Zone and make the job simple. You jsut give a deposit which is refunded when you return the tool.
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From: Kona, Hawaii / Redlands, CA
Car: 91' RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Hmmm.....
Is it a huge PITA if I already have the A-arm off of the car??? I am gonna be putting new bushings on my car all the way around, should I do this with the A-arm installed or off of the car??
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 4
From: orlando, fl usa
Car: 1986 pontiac TA
Engine: 360 HSR
Transmission: 700r4 3300 yank converter
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt
with the arm off, then i'd use a press. because you have nothing to hold the arm still. you have to make sure the ball joint is straight when using a press. i've seen presses come flying off if not set properly.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Kona, Hawaii / Redlands, CA
Car: 91' RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Right...
Originally posted by mrr23
with the arm off, then i'd use a press. because you have nothing to hold the arm still. you have to make sure the ball joint is straight when using a press. i've seen presses come flying off if not set properly.
with the arm off, then i'd use a press. because you have nothing to hold the arm still. you have to make sure the ball joint is straight when using a press. i've seen presses come flying off if not set properly.
In some cases the ball joints have been replaced a bunch of times and they will hammer out easily and can go back in with some moderat tapping. In others they will be very tight coming out and may **** going in. get the press, especially if its free. If you can hammer them in and out easily do it, if not use the press. I prefer the press ( its sometimes harder than hammering) but it doesn't maul the control arms.
one more note, i got the heavy duty tie rod adjusting sleeves from global west, i think they are well worth the cost.
one more note, i got the heavy duty tie rod adjusting sleeves from global west, i think they are well worth the cost.
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Originally posted by laiky
In some cases the ball joints have been replaced a bunch of times and they will hammer out easily and can go back in with some moderat tapping. In others they will be very tight coming out and may **** going in. get the press, especially if its free. If you can hammer them in and out easily do it, if not use the press. I prefer the press ( its sometimes harder than hammering) but it doesn't maul the control arms.
one more note, i got the heavy duty tie rod adjusting sleeves from global west, i think they are well worth the cost.
In some cases the ball joints have been replaced a bunch of times and they will hammer out easily and can go back in with some moderat tapping. In others they will be very tight coming out and may **** going in. get the press, especially if its free. If you can hammer them in and out easily do it, if not use the press. I prefer the press ( its sometimes harder than hammering) but it doesn't maul the control arms.
one more note, i got the heavy duty tie rod adjusting sleeves from global west, i think they are well worth the cost.
Ditto on the tie rod adjusting sleeves.
RBob.
I think it is WAY easier to use a press than a hammer. The press is a no-brainer as long as you set the cups up properly. It might slip off, but it wont come flying out. Certrainly doesnt pose more of a threat than beating the control arm w/ a hammer while there is a jack supporting the arm to keep the spring in place. I would imagine that you have more of a chance "cocking" the balljoint while hammering it than pressing it. Anyway, if you have the arm off the car a press is certainly the way to go. If you cant get ahold of the press, hammering on the car is an alternative. Personally, I did it with a press and an impact gun and it took about 10 seconds to get it out and 30 to get it back in. On a side note, be careful getting the bushings out/in because its pretty easy to squish the fingers on the arm where the bushings are held in.
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