I installed the Spohn Torque arm with the front driveshaft safety loop, and I'm having some problems with it. The first problem is that it interferes with a bolt that holds on a bracket for the fuel lines... That is not TOOoooo big of a deal, as the bracket can probably be moved pretty easily. The seconds problem is pretty major.. My driveshaft hits the front driveshaft safety loop. My car is lowered slightly (Jamex springs, 1.5" I think, not slammed or anything). Well, when I'm driving, I hear a "whirrrrr" sound, and it seems to only happen when the car is under load or when the driveshaft is at a certain angle when going over bumps. I checked under the car and the driveshaft has marks all the way around it where it passes through the safety loop. My pinion angle is set at 0 degrees. Did I do anything wrong during installation? Any ideas on fixing this problem, besides cutting the loop off?

 

Better fix that right away, you dont want the driveshaft getting all chewed up, esp if its soft aluminum.

I've read where some have had to cut off the loop.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...riveshaft+loop

 

Its not hitting by that much, but that doesnt matter, it's not acceptable to have this issue. I'm dissapointed that I'm having this problem after spending so much on what I thought were quality parts. Maybe it was made incorrectly like '91 Formula's in the post you found.

 

ive had the same problem. for the fuel line i jus took out the bolt. mine doesnt hang when the bolt is out...urs shouldnt either.

and the loop...i dunno but i jus chopped mine off and everything went in fine.

Steve you owe me some cash...

 

$40 to be exact....

I'll try taking the bolt out the next time I'm able to work on it, hopefully everything stays in place.

 

I can't guarantee anything on lowered cars. It's a tight fit under there to begin with, lowering just makes it so much tighter. You'll have to modify the brake bracket.

The loop is due to being lowered. The loop is designed for drag racing requirements, majority of people drag racing are not lowered. When the car is lowered, it brings the crossmember and loop down, which makes the loop very close to the driveshaft.

There are alot of variables that come in to play, couple that with many people running 3" to 4" driveshafts, and I have to keep the loop set at being centered on a std ride height car. If I changed the position of the loop to give more room on lowered cars, then a non-lowered guy with a 4" CF driveshaft is gonna have problems. Most people running the Eibach Pro Kit are fine, the Jamex probably lowered you closer to 2" from my experience, where the Eibach's only drop you on average 1".

I try to design things to install as painlessly as possible, but as with any aftermarket part, it may require some "tweaking" to work with the other aftermarket stuff you have in place.

That's called "Hot Rodding"

Steve

 

Steve,

I understand your point of view. You might want to specify that the crossmember with the DS Safety Loop may need to be modified on cars that have been lowered more than 1.5". I guess I'm just a little extra dissapointed too since this is the second product I've received from you that I'm having to jump through hoops to make work (Swaybar relocation brackets, the U-Bolts are too large, and following the instructions would render the bushing bracket fairly messed up.) Oh well... I'll figure something out.

 

The problem is that sway bar bushings were never designed to be used on 3" to 3.25" diameter axle tubes. I'm guessing you have 3.25" because on 3" it's not much of a problem to make them work. On 3.25" you have to "modify" the bushing bracket, there's no easy solution there.

The u-bolts are the size they need to be to go on to the larger axle tubes, you can't use a smaller u-bolt.

Steve

 

Some people should just stick with off the showroom cars with only factory upgrades. I'll second Steve's quote "Its called Hot Rodding. All cars a different and when modifiing, you need to expect a little custom grinding here and there to make things work.

 

And you are....? When I buy a $400 part claiming "100% bolt in installation", thats what I expect.

With the torque arm/driveshaft interference, I'm just a little pissed because I was not aware that this problem could happen.

About the swaybar brackets.... My axle tubes are the same as stock, 2.75" (Strange 12 Bolt). I'd be fine with grinding a slot into my bushing bracket, but if I did that, there would be no outer wall on the bracket. There is a trailer shop closeby that can probably make up a few u bolts for me for cheap, I'll just give them a call tomorrow.

Its not that big of a deal I guess. Maybe I'm just getting my panties in a wad since I havent driven my car in 5 months, and its finally getting to where I can drive it, but I'm running into little piddly stuff like this... OK case closed, problem solved, my solution is: DEAL WITH IT.

 

Did you do any welding??? no so i think it 'bolted' in 100%

 

Did you really have to keep it going? I already came to my conclusion. But since you sound like a wiseguy, I'll continue. I have not done any welding yet, but I may have to.... So I dont think its a 100% bolt-in. It would be a 100% bolt in for a stock ride height car, just not one that is lowered, at least not with Jamex springs. I have no problems with the torque arm itself, or even the crossmember, just the safety loop. Dont get me wrong, its an excellent TA, but in my opinion it (the loop) could have been better executed, but hey, I'm not Steve, so I dont have control over it. I'm sure he spent many hours designing every aspect of it and I agree with him that it will work for probably 90% of the people who buy it.

 

I'm not trying to keep this going I just want to say I agree with this statement. About a month or 2 ago i read something about the spohn TA having some minor problems if you are lowered, so I went and checked the website to see if it said anything, but it didn't. I know your busy Steve, but maybe if you would throw up a line or 2 on your site stating that then these kind of things could be avoided. I hope to get one of these after I get a new rear for my car, but I'll probably have to some tweaking since I have jamex springs.

 

I love poeple that lower their car and have no understanding what so ever about suspension geometry.

The guys that do have a clue and understand are the guys that also have a clue to pick up the phone and call someone direct for technical advice on the product they are buying for their altered situation.

You guys are green (rookies) and have no clue.

As for the "And you are...?"-
I'm a guy that owns his own welder and fabricates his own parts to meet his own needs.

I'm a guy that has a COMPLETE understanding and ability to engineer and adjust full setups of any type of suspension to perform to that car and most importantly, that drivers' perticular need.
Thank you for asking.

Oh yeah- I can even frikin weld underwater-and chew gum at the same time.

 

Dude, I dont give a crap. Just because you are an experienced welder doesnt mean that everyone that isnt is lower than you. You're being a dick and you need to quit runing your mouth. If I owned a welder, it probably wouldnt be as big of a deal as it is.

Just because I'm a rookie doesnt mean you have can spout your mouth off becuase you can weld underwater.... If I had a welder, and a place to weld at (I'm not sure sure my apartment complex would like that.....) I bet I could weld just as good as you, with practice of course.

And who are you to criticize my knowledge about suspension geometry? You dont even know who I am..... You dont know what I've done to my car.... So what if you have a "COMPLETE understanding and ability to engineer and adjust full setups of any type", am I supposed to be scared of you or something because of your experience? Gimme a break man. Go back to doing fabrication and quit acting like a child.

 

The big dick says to the little dick, "Then
next time don't ask- And you are...?"
And here I thought you cared.

 

You've got issues pal....

Steve, please lock this while I'm calm. Thanks.

 

I love this guy-

First you come in here bashing Steve Spohn and his products- then when you look like an *** you want him to run to your rescue and lock or hide this post.

And I have issues.

 

Dude.. drop it. I didnt really mean to bash him and his products, I was just asking for his help because I had a problem with them. He answered and I accept that he made his product to fit a stock height vehicle, and that I'm going to have to modify the crossmember. If anyone looks like an ***, its you, coming in here calling people out because they cant weld underwater and chew gum at the same time....

If you want to continue, please just send me a personal email, no sense cluttering up the boards with garbage....