I want to get an adjustable panhard bar for my 1991 camaro. I'm an also installing lowering springs all around, 1.5 drop in the rear. I heard that if you lower the car you SHOULD get an adjustable panhard bar. IS this true? Or should I just do it to improve the handling anyway. Money is no object so guys help me out a bit. Oh shocks will be replaced with new ones too.

 

It's recommended getting an adjustable panhard bar for lowered cars to reposition the rear end. When the car is lowered, the rear tilts a bit and you lose a bit of traction. It's not a crucial part for lowering the car, but it wil definitely help out a lot. I plan to make it my next purchase along with adj. LCAs and relocation brackets.

 

like mentioned above , it may not be required but it's a good idea. I recommend doing it.

 

Most performance shop mechanics I have talked to said you usually do not need readjustment if your not going 2" or below. Anything 2" or below and it is likely you will need to readjust some stuff. I bought the Eibach pro kit and just for saftey measure, I bought the adjustable panhard bar and reloaction brackets from spohn just to be safe. Don't need adjusting afterall? No big deal, the spohn adj. panhard bar comes set at OEM anyways. And relocation brackets still give u better traction even if your car isn't lowered. So it works out in the end anyways.

 

I had a 1.5-2" drop on my car and got the adjustable one so that I could center the rear. It was about an 1" over to one side. Can't remember which side it was, but you could see it if you looked at where the tire and fender lip lined up on both sides.

 

If you use the panhard bar to center teh rear does it creat binding or unbalanced suspension travel during pirching and heaving because the axl is naturally off center?

I am debating on wich panhard bar to get. My rear will be lowered about 1/2" to 3/4."

 

I had no problems with my car with the Lakewood one.
My car had nearly 0 body roll when corning really hard. Car would stay pretty flat.
I just got a BMR adjustable one to go on the T/A since it is adjustable while on the car, the lakewood needs one end unbolted to do the adjustment.

This is the lakewood piece.

 

This is just what i've picked up over the years, so i may have a few facts slightly wrong.

An drawback to using a panhard bar to center the rearend is that it will drag the rear axle over if the suspension moves a lot.
A watts linkage will solve that but it's complicated and heavy. So most people just live with the panhard bar.

A triangulated 4 link, like used on fox body mustangs and GM A and G bodies will bind when the suspension rolls, which the 3rd gen suspension was designed to stop as much as possible.

If a Panhard bar is made as long as possible and set level to the axle, it will have the largest range of motion without drastically affecting the position of the axle. When you lower the suspension, you're making the bar the wrong length for it's new position and also making it non parallel to the axle. An adjustable panhard can solve the length problem, which helps, but the angle of the bar will be off due to the mounting points being changed, the only way to solve that is to change the mounting points. Most people don't bother with that and figure it as an acceptable trade off.

Getting a single or double adjustable panhard is a matter of preference, the single adjustable isn't going to rattle loose on you. While it's possible for that to happen on the double adjustable, you don't have to mess with pulling the end off the bar to adjust it, then lining it back up to install it, since you changed the length.

 

Thanks for the great explanation.

 

I'm puttin the Prolines on my 89 TA. I'm addng the BMR lower control arms, BMR adj. panhard bar, BMR Trak Pak torque arm and BMR anti squat brackets that I'm going to install at the same time i install the Mser 12 Blt. Question is, how do you adjust all that stuff and how well does it work. Is this overkill? This will be a ProStreet car with 355 and N2O. Jimmy

 

Zepher, i noticed that you have the lakewood adj panhard rod. How do you like it? Did it increase handling and ride performance? Would you buy it again or somethin else?

Thanks,
I am looking for an adj pahnard rod and noticed that the lakewood is the cheapest.

 

i put both the lakewood panhard rod and the trailing arm on my car. took care of any oversteer the car had. i've done a best of 1.76 60ft on regular tires on n2o. consistent 1.85 my car isn't lowered and the rear was off by .29* (about 1/2" right).