Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

LCA's or subframe connectors?

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Old May 4, 2003 | 01:10 PM
  #1  
raffi4's Avatar
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From: Manahawkin/Hackensack, NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 LB9
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi BW 9 Bolt
LCA's or subframe connectors?

which makes more of an improvement in traction bolt in subframe connectors or lower control arms??
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Old May 4, 2003 | 01:19 PM
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todillinder's Avatar
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From: Beloit,Wisconsin
Car: 87 Trans-Am
Engine: 350 cui TPI Chevrolet, MODIFIED
Transmission: WC T-5 with Modifications
Axle/Gears: 3.73 w/ Torsen Diff.
Go with the subframe connectors first, especially if your car is a T - top car. Welded sub frame connectors are better than bolt-in.
Good luck and Drive it like you stole it!
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Old May 4, 2003 | 02:07 PM
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DJP87Z28's Avatar
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From: Florida
Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
For improved traction I would go with the Rear LCA's. SFC's that are welded on will improve the tightness of the body but not traction.
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Old May 4, 2003 | 04:10 PM
  #4  
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From: Beloit,Wisconsin
Car: 87 Trans-Am
Engine: 350 cui TPI Chevrolet, MODIFIED
Transmission: WC T-5 with Modifications
Axle/Gears: 3.73 w/ Torsen Diff.
In all facets in racing, you need to have a solid platform to start out wtih. Any suspension mods will not be fully utilized until you have a solid base to start with. Any twisting of the body throws all of the suspension geometry out of whack, and you can not get consistant handling, or a consisant launch.
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Old May 4, 2003 | 05:40 PM
  #5  
DJP87Z28's Avatar
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From: Florida
Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Originally posted by todillinder
In all facets in racing, you need to have a solid platform to start out wtih. Any suspension mods will not be fully utilized until you have a solid base to start with. Any twisting of the body throws all of the suspension geometry out of whack, and you can not get consistant handling, or a consisant launch.
Do you have both SFC's & Rear LCA's on your car?????
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Old May 4, 2003 | 05:42 PM
  #6  
raffi4's Avatar
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From: Manahawkin/Hackensack, NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 LB9
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi BW 9 Bolt
no i dont have either im trying to decide which one to buy because i cant afford both now.
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Old May 4, 2003 | 09:14 PM
  #7  
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From: Florida
Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Go with the LCA's and if you can swing it get a Pandhard Bar also. Spohn is a good source and these would improve traction & handling. These are easier parts to install then the SFC's. But keep in mind the SFC's. My opinion and I have all three on my car.
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Old May 4, 2003 | 10:39 PM
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todillinder's Avatar
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From: Beloit,Wisconsin
Car: 87 Trans-Am
Engine: 350 cui TPI Chevrolet, MODIFIED
Transmission: WC T-5 with Modifications
Axle/Gears: 3.73 w/ Torsen Diff.
For DJP, my 85 Z-28 has SFC's (weld-in), first set of LCA's I tried the adjustables with threaded spherical rod ends. That started to tweak the stock mounting point on the frame, and illegal for SCCA SP class, but not NASA American Iron Series. Then I switched to LCA adjustable location brackets, bought a new set of box style LCA's (LG Motorsports), and replaced the bushings with Spherical Bearing Bushing (Grond Control-www.ground-control.com) and my own Panhard bar with threaded spherical rod ends. Plus a 8 - point roll cage. A customer of mine had a 88 IROC that was a daily driver with some autocross duty. He was on a tight budget, so I boxed the stock LCA's and replaced the rubber bushings with the spherical bearing bushing from GC.
Raffi4,
What kind of motorsport driving do you plan to do?
What organization are you going to run with? Because you will need to know the class rules.
Good Luck and Drive it like you stole it!
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