Ok I jsut got done changeing out my brake pads (they seemed a bit spoungie at time and too ahrd at otehr times)....what does this seem like? I am thinking maybe Master Cylender...if it is that how hard is it to change and about how much will it cost if i do it myslef...i have a 92 rs

 

If they were just spongy all the time, I'd say they needed bled. However, since they're sometimes too hard, sounds like a collapsed brake hose.

I'd hit the parts store and get new rubber hoses (or mail order a set of Earl's stainless/Teflon hoses) and swap 'em out, grab plenty of fluid as you'll need to bleed the whole thing when done swapping.

 

Take the time and change out the calipers and the hoses. Odds are that there is a problem with one of the two. After all these years they could stand to be replaced anyway.

Welcome aboard noob!!

Ed

 

well here is the break down...

I poped open the drums and saw where fluid had been leaking pretty bad form teh little cylender thing inside the drum....I replaced one side and wasnt gettign any pressure from the break when my mechanic guru and I were testing them.....so I poped open the resivour to the master cylender....and the black rubber thingy in there was all twisted out of shape....so i took that out and tried to clean it....but I noticed it wouldnt clean up and the water was beading up.....so I looked insid ethe resiviour and stuck ym fingers in to see what the substance was.....it turns out that it is either OIL or POWERSTEERING FLUID IN IT!!!! The prvious owners must have done that....I just bought the car about 2 weeks ago......so....needless to say I will have to replace EVERYTHING RUBBER tomorrow and totally flush the system before I put the new shoes and cylender on the passenger side....maybe that will kill the Red Brake(!) light that is perma on in my car......

With changing the brake lines...I have never done it before....but what are the basics on how it is done?

 

Remove old lines, install new lines, torque caliper banjo bolts to spec, bleed hydraulics from farthest point (passenger rear wheel) to closest (driver front wheel). That's the basics.

Best to soak the threaded line fittings with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench for a while before attempting to break loose as they tend to stick, use flare wrenches not regular kind or you'll risk stripping them.

For torque specs on the caliper banjo bolts consult a Helms or other manual. Make sure and use new copper or aluminum sealing washers on them, don't reuse the old ones or try to go without them. The new lines should come with them.

Now's a great time to upgrade to Earl's lines instead of using rubber replacements...braided stainless steel w/ Teflon liners. They'll outlive the car unlike rubber lines, and really firm up the brake pedal.

 

well all work was done and seems to be alright

calipers, pads, lines, shoes, drum cylenders, and master sylender all swappe dout and working like a wet dream...

soon as i get a chance I will swap for some braided, but since this is my daily driver I had to go with waht the local auto-part store had.....