Do the Spohn relocation brackets come with instructions(stupid question)? They look straight forward, but is there anything special I should know before I install them??

 

yes they come with instructions, and yes they are very straight forward.

 

Do a search. Somebody posted some absolutely beautiful pics of them, you can see very clearly what's involved. Which is not a whole lot actually, it's a real simple thing.

 

here you go...

these are the pics my good friend mike (Schultzy89GTA) posted....

 

Rex x's Can you provide a link?

 

http://home.attbi.com/~mschultz111/lcaon2.jpg

http://home.attbi.com/~mschultz111/lcaon3.jpg

 

That's perfect, thank's guy's!!:hail:

 

Dewey316,

Are those LS1 brakes? Please post some pictures of the cable setup. I can not figure out how to deal with them.

 

Actually there is, he makes no provision for locking them on the axle housing, so it is imparitive that you measure from some point on the body to the lower mounting hole so that both sides are located the same to prevent the cocking of the housing and causing the car to dog leg down the highway. Once you mount them on the housing you will see what I mean, they will swivel back and forth.
So...you will need a measurement to get them in the proper position before welding.

BTW: To mount the LS1 E-brake cables to the body I fabricated a cable mounting bracket (see pic) below.

 

no they are thirdgen PBR's

 

LS1 E-brake cable bracket:

 

Don,

Can you show me a picture of what it looks like installed?

 

nice to see good quality welds there

 

It looks like these take a lot out of ground clearance- anyone notice a problem? Or are they close enough to the tire so it doesn't matter?

 

The bottom of the bracket is just about even with the bottom of the shock mount.

 

Steve, thanks! From the pictures (and the angle they were taken from) it looked like they hung lower.

Is it okay to lay such a large continuous bead as a weld? Any danger of warping the original frame area? The brackets look thick enough that they probably wouldn't warp, just wondering about the car. Or would it be better for me to do a bunch of tack welds (like welding in a body panel)?

 

Back up to the top; I'm going to assume that the axle won't warp, unless someone tells me otherwise. And why is a bolt going through the original hole? Just to locate the bracket?

 

You're not welding directly on the axle tube, just to the OEM LCA mounting bracket.

The bolt through the OEM hole goes through a supplied spacer sleeve to keep the top of the bracket from squeezing in when you tighten the LCA at the lower mounting points.

 

ohhhhhhh...

Steve is on the verge of 1k posts!

hehe

:lala:

-Schultzy

 

That's what I get for trying to make a short message! That was what I meant; the OEM bracket on the axle, not the axle itself! But thanks for the info! (On warping and the bolt/spacer) It'll be fun to lay a continuous bead instead of doing a bunch of spot welds. Last time I dragged a weld, it was when I was building a tubing-bender frame, and that was, oh, I guess 2000?

 

It's only about 2-3 inches at the most so one long bead won't hurt that. Plus, those LCA mounts and brackets are fairly thick and should take it.

Here's my question: Do the brackets interfere with the PBR calipers being able to rotate down when changing brake pads? This was brought up in anothe thread concerning BMR brackets but I wonder if the same holds true with Steve's pieces. In the above pic, it looks like the e-brake lever comes awful close... If anyone knows, I'd appreciate some input here.


Ed