My old 89 RS... 120K Miles of stock suspension finnaly did me in tonight... i hit the brakes and one wheel felt like it locked sideways (bad tierods / pitman / idler arm)

and everytime i go over speed bumps it wacks my exhaust (worn out springs/shocks/struts)

So its time to fix the broken stuff. Cheap as possible.

Im going with
KYB Adjust Shocks (rear) KYB-KG5562 $27 X2
KYB Struts Front KYB-236001 $49 X2
IROC springs Front MOG-5662 $45
IROC springs Back MOG-5665 $47
Inner Tie Rods: #MRCES2227LR $26.99 X2
Outer Tie Rods: #MRCES2226LR $16.99 X2
Sleeves: #MRCES2032 $5.99 X2
NCP2683635 = IDLER ARM NAPA $$$??? (Ill assume $45)
Dont need a centerlink...
I was thinking of LCA relocation brackets for traction but that isnt a necessary right now, plus those springs should raise my car BACK to stock height (read 3" drop due to 12 year old suspension)

Not bad, i would think, after a few hours of searching this site i actually managed to bring my original price quote down from $1400 to a measly $388

I KNOW the KYBS arnt as good as koni yellows or blisteins, I know the springs arnt freaking top notch, and i know i still need SFCs to make it real, but right now im also budgeting for college and a new transmission this ones slipping up... so this will have to do! and thats stretching the bank as it is. Anything really important im forgetting?

 

Hey wasap man. I think the main thing you left out that you need to do is replace the bushings. Bushings make a big difference and the old worn out ones greatly attribute to a bad ride. The full bushings kit is around $130 I think, but if you go under the car and just visually identify which bushings are really bad (use the parts list from the kit as a guide to check), you might be able to save a few $$. The other thing is to check out your steering linkage some more before buying all those parts. Sometimes one bad part in the system can make it feel real bad, bad enough to have multiple parts replaced, but it is not always the case. Just check it out. Other than that, you should notice a much better ride.Good luck man!

 

You might as well replace the ball joints, control arm bushings and strut mounts as well.

 

Yep, no sense in taking it all apart if you only replace half of it. Do the A-arm bushings, ball joints, motor mounts, tranny and torque arm mounts too while it's all apart.


Ed

 

ball joints, motor mounts, tranny mount are already done now that you mention it. after i broke all of the above items i replaced those alone the way...

But whats an A-ARM and whats a CONTROL arm (bushings) and is that something that i will have "apart anyways so i might as well replace it"?

and strut mounts? What are those and why are they important?

and also front or rear control arm bushings should be done now?
And what about LCA and LCA relo brackets... big difference even with stock height springs?

I just checked summit and they have two torque arm mounts, with "lips facing driveshaft" and "away from D-shaft" which one should i be using?

 

When you replace your springs, you'll have to lower your a-arms(front control arms). At this time you can remove the arms from the frame of the car (the bolts holding them are IN the lca bushings). Get the old bushing pressed out and the new lca bushings pressed in. (can do it yourself, but its a pita!!!) Your ball joints are also on the a-arm.

Someone will chime in on the mounts, make sure u check them first. Mine were ok, so I left them in. I say might as well do the rear suspensiong stuff all at the same time, not forgetting your panhard bar bushings. As for the LCA relocaters, I think those will really help out for hooking up the suspension on lowered cars, not sure about stock height.
You gotta get under there! Theres no easier way to do it. Just check which way the lips are facing.
BTW- my COMPLETE suspension rebuild in is the process right now and im having trouble getting the tranny side of the ta bushing mount out from the tranny(its a loooong bolt, whos idea was it)!!! Any ideas? Good luck, Efrain.

 

well actually i sorta made my own torque arm mount / bushing out of diamond plate and rubber becaue the stock one would work with the TH350 but now a 700R4 is in and its covering the speedo hole (which i didnt need before) so im thinking time for a new torque arm...


Ok so ill do the control arm bushing up front they are cheap enough...

 

Efrain, I ended up droping the tranny crossmember to get it out, it made it easier. Click here to see how I did mine:


http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tar...m/taramiller72


Ed

 

Thanks Ed, your pictures are pretty much my installation handbook. I installed a new poly trans mount, and am also struggling with fitting the sponh ds safety loop, so the crossmember is out. With the tranny on the jack I've even tried slightly lowering it, but still no room to work with and am reluctant to go lower. I already grinded off the rivets and removed the bushing on the other side of the mount, so there'll be no using the stocker any more. Am I stuck without a torque arm for now? Any problems temporarily leaving it out? Thanks, Efrain.

 

You CANNOT leave it out. Without it, nothing will maintain your pinion angle and you will snap something: driveshaft, pinion yoe...something will break.


Ed

 

I just finished pressing out my a arm bushings. I used the ball joint press I had rented from autozone. PITA. Anyone have a better do it yourself technique?
Make sure you look over your bushings before ordering parts, their condition varies with every car. I did mine just to be safe, but they were probably fine, and on a budget could take a lower priority to other parts.

 

Also if you want to change your motor mounts this will be the time to do them otherwise you will find out that it is a PITA to do with the A-arm still on. I'm in the middle of my front end rebuild as well. Sounds like you are doing the same thing I'm doing.

 

No matter how you take em out. Just don't damage tha a arm.
I would do it this way: first drill that old bushing full of holes so you remove as much of it as possible. heat some very sharp knife. When knife is hot (glowing in red) It cuts easy old rubber part. So after drilling it is just scratching of the remains

 

I've heard of hitting the bushings with a sawzall....basically cutting it into qaurters and tapping it out (Hammering?)with a socket....anyone try this method before?

 

{quote]I used the ball joint press I had rented from autozone. PITA. Anyone have a better do it yourself technique? [/quote]


I did mine back in the spring and did them this way:

Took a small propane torch and burned the old bushings out of the shells, after a while they practically fall out....then I beat the old shells into pieces with a BFH and a chisel, and then pressed in the new ES bushings with a rented ball joint press from AutoZone...worked like a charm.

I posted pics of how I did it in this forum, do a search and see what you can find.


Ed