crazy both will add provisions for auto-x if asked for...to bad your across the way as i bet they would give you a discount for trial since you do what you do. that would set the record straight then wouldn't it.

 

Yeah it would. If it can handle drifting, guarantee it will be strong enough for daily street driving, auto-x, and roadracing. I'm looking for more ways to drop weight off the front and achieve the 50/50 distribution, so I might look into this further. When I have cash in hand I'll give these guys a call.

 

they are pretty reasonable...they knocked quite a bit off just by having their name published in an article with the car. i would assume some racing publicity would really help them nicely.

 

Crazy, i get what you are say, BUT, the forces put on the car during road-racing and drifting are completely diffrent, i am not saying that drifting is at all easy on a car, but with some sticky R-compound tires, the lateral forces the front end sees during road-racing is ALOT more than any encounted drifting.

 

Yeah you are correct. Grip cars experience way more stress than drift cars since we have no traction when we drift. Guess my statement was a little flamboyant there hehehe, sorry about that. I actually plan to participate in some wheel to wheel roadracing when I get the car done, though I wasn't thinking about that when I made my earlier post. I'm really wondering how it would hold up if I tapped the wall (same for CM A-arms).

 

i would really like to see this peice that is so talked about as teh 'auto-x' version. i have really thought about getitng one, and then modifing to fit my needs, but there are SO many other things that i can do to shed pounds first, i am not about to compromise the rigidity that i have built into my car right now, in the name of 30lbs of weight.

 

The way I look at it is. Most of us who have em dont Daily drive our cars. and if the Tubular members are made for Drag racing and can handle wheels up launches and landings They will handle a few weekend potholes and bad roads when weekend driven.

We are all careful to miss Huge potholes that are noticable anyways. Ya you hit em still but **** happens. I think the Tubular member was one of the cheaper priced parts for my car. If it cracks I'll get another one.

 

It isn't hitting a pot-hole that i am most concerned with, it is flexing it while going around PIR on sticky race tires, at over 1g lateraly.

 

Not to start a poo tossing fight but if the factory K-member was known to flex so bad that steering box braces and strut tower braces became beneficial. Wouldn't the single tube of an aftermarket K-member flex even more? Just asking. :lala:

 

no.. the steering box braces brace the front "frame rail" box section from flexing under cornering loads..... because frankly, they're stamped steel sheet.
strut tower braces brace the top of the towers because thoes are also just thin steel sheet.....
notice you only have to brace the top, and in front where the K member isnt....

the Kmember is a heavily overbuilt thickmetal piece.. it doesnt flex... it'll bend if you smack a curb at high speed or somthing, but it doesnt flex.

 

yeah a stock torque arm flexes.....i'd like to see someone make a stock k-member flex.

 

Kandied?

 

Sorry it took so long to get back on this forum.

The total was $1,389. From PRO FAB
That was for the C/M K Member, C/M A Arms, Bump steer kit, Coil over spring Kit, Cobra Power Rack & Pinnion conversion, and converted steering shaft. No extra cost for the stronger Road race version.

We just installed it yesterday and WOW I am very impressed!
In the high stress areas where the pieces weld together on the K member, there are gussets welded in also to make it stronger. On the A Arms there is extra cross bracing also.
Vern told me that with everything I have done, I will save 175 Pounds off of the front of the car. I like the fact that there is SO much more room to work around the engine.

I will post before and after pictures soon.

 

nice isn't it....

 

Oh it's better than nice! I love it!!!
It has a cool factor that is as good or better than anything else I've ever done on the car. It's too bad it is going to be covered up by an engine and will be hard to see...

 

so true....i have yet to have anyone notice it. unless they know about the car you have to tell them and then they won't leave you alone.

 

Wow 175lbs thats funny. All the stock parts are 171 lbs so how can it remove more then that.

Jerry

P.S. I have the C/M K-member, C/M A-arms and a coil over kit on my car.

 

Maybe it's magic...

 

I'm with Jerry, I think they exaggerated a bit on the weight reduction. It will lighten things alot though!
Did you happen to take a pic of the k-member? I'm sure many other people besides myself would like to see what differences it has versus their regular one.

 

If the road race version is really a solid piece, and sheds some pounds, and looks good too, sign me up. Waiting for some pics of the RR verision showing extra bracing,etc.

 

Quick question: Besides for supposed weight loss would this make more room for exhaust??

 

ABSOLUTELY! Much more room for headers and spark plug changes. Especially if using a different motor like an LS1 or even a big block.

 

the whole reason i put one on my car was for room......so much more easier to work on the car. it's great they have the ability to add extra bracing for those who think the need it too! i love mine.

 

Kandied, I know you have a ton of pics, want to throw one up of how much header room you have??

Or link us to a site maybe?

 

Sweet was just going to ask where i can get some tubular A arm but i guess i can order the whole front end now.

 

OK here are some of the installed pics of the PROFAB Crome molly K member, A arms, Coil overs, Power rack & pinnion, & bumpsteer kit.
in one of the pics you can see the gussets around the high stress points, and the extra bracing in the A arm.

Sorry the lighting wasn't better....

 

...

 

....

 

....,,

 

,,,.

 

..,,,

 

,'''

 

,.,

 

looks good, so dark i can't see much though...

 

can you email me the orignal fullsize pics? i'll post them up online fullsize so everyone can see them better.

MrDude_1@excite.com

 

I'll take some better pics with a flash this week and post them.
It is really hard to see...

 

any luck iwth the pix?

 

Yep, I took some with my Regular camera that has a flash. They will be good ones. I will get them developed and put on a Digital format this weekend. I haven't forgot, Just been busy.

 

its da weekend!

 

he just stuffed my inbox full of these pics...

im posting them full size so you can see the detail.... (dialuppers, im sorry. )

edited out overside pics

i cleaned out my inbox, so if he sends more, i'll post more.


EDIT: ALL PICS ARE HERE:
http://josh.swoca.net/board/mrdude/Kmember/

 

I have sent all of the pics to Mr Dude.

Sorry they are so big. My computer has no way of reducing them. They were too large to even post.

I sent about 10 pics.

 

Just so you guys know, Pro Fab has the thirdgen k-members on sale again. Mild steel with OEM spring and motor mount perches for $250.

 

heres all of the pics he sent me... tubular K member installed pics

i even took 5mins out of my day to thumbnail them..... all are fullsize when you click the thumbnail for easy viewing of details....

http://josh.swoca.net/board/mrdude/Kmember/


check em out.

 

That steering intermediate shaft looks as though is is at a severe angle and would cause header problems.

 

It looks really close. I am using Hooker Super comps. I've done allot of looking at it and holding the headers up to where I think they will sit. I think it will clear without dinging the header tube.

One thing to note is that the steering shaft turns and goes right through where the stock K member spring perches used to be. So the headers "should" clear.

The engine will be going back in within a day or two, I'll let you know how it goes.

BTW: Even though the new steering shaft angles pretty sharply it is very smooth when turning the wheels. Maybe because it is using true U joints. So far so good.

 

ive seen it more extreme on 4x4s without issue...

if its like he says and clears the headers, then i think its fine... a 2nd U joint is a solution to the angle, but i think its not needed and would just add another place for slop to add into the steering.

 

thanks Boxeat2469... you broke my willpower.

ever since your post ive been thinking about getting one.... and how nows the time since im swapping motors....

at 4:30pm, i finally broke down and ordered one.

mild steel tubular K member... with spring perches... $250 + roughly $30 shipping.

 

No problem MrDude.
And if you really want to finish it off, they have the tubular A-arms with spring perches listed for $275. They're letting those go for $200 a set. Mine should be arriving today or tomorrow.

 

the steering shaft clears with minimal header rub on mine..I had to ding my header tube for clearance. Of course I bought my whole kit from P/A about a year and a half ago, so your new steering shaft from pro-fab should clear fine.

 

Twisted Wedge,

Is your steering shaft the same as mine, or did they change something?

What headers are you running?

Also, Since I have the Polly Motor mounts that raise the motor up Do you think it will help or hurt?

Thanks for your help...