vsixtoy, what do ya know about Spohn's coil over kit and K member? Im curious..

Kat

 

that's great, help for more competition.....about time he got off his butt and did something with the k-members.

 

I just know it is currently being designed and is in the final stages of working out any possible weaknesses. other than that I know nothing. I just know from Spohn's reputation that he makes the best possible product and does not skimp in integrity and quality- His track record with other product has proven this. I for one trust his products.

 

how soon is very soon?

 

I'm gonna have to send some emails out to
BMR
PA Racing
Pro Fab
AJE

and inquire on the materials they use. Any company I'm missing?

- Joel

 

if vsixtoy is right and Spohn has finally cought up enough to design his Kmember, then add him to the list.



edit:
could ya post what you sent them and what their responce is?

 

If you guys trust my knowledge and reputation then I suggest to wait for Spohn, If not, then don't.

I have been in contact with every single one of the guys Anniv just listed above over the past few years at one point or another. There is a reason why I have not bought anything k-member setup from any of them. Most of you are very familiar with my Camaro and the quality and magnitude I build it and drive it- combined with the fact that pretty much the entire rest of the rear suspension has bbeen changed along with most of the front except fot the K-member and A-arms I have left stock for a reason. That reson is I know suspension parts and have not liked what I have seen until now. I had the money to change them in the past but opted not to.

The last thing I will say is Spohn started on this prototype back in July of this year and is working out the final details. He is waiting for some custom made details to be manufactured to outfit his design- that takes time but is very close. Its like the crap I'm dealing with doing one-offs on my brake project. R&D takes time and then when its correct, it then trying to set things up for lower cost production and assembly.

No one else offers what he's doing to the extent, quality, and options he'll be providing. And his welding is top notch TIG unlike others

This is the last I will comment on it- I have said probably more than I am suppose to. I just wanted to inform everyone that a new product is getting close an it will be worth the wait- I defenately know I am buying one.

DON'T GO E-MAILING SPOHN- its not going to help. He will anounce it when it is ready. Just don't rush out and buy something else in the mean time or you will be sorry you did.

 

I have already emailed Steve earlier this morning asking about the progress and his specs. I sent an email to PA asking what DOM tubing they use on their std K members....the road race versions are .120 DOM. I also emailed AJE asking about the tubing and if they have a road race version and if they will do spring perches. BMR doesn't make one for 3rd gens, but I just wanted to know what material they use...it's 1 5/8"x.120" and 1.25"x.095" tube.
I need to call ProFab and I'm waiting to hear back from everyone I emailed.

EDIT: Vsixtoy...sounds like you have some inside info....the research I've been doing has pretty much brought me to the same conclusion as your's....to wait for Steve's k member. I've very **** about what goes on or in my car as well and the k member and a-arms are the only pieces on the car that have remained stock too. The entire rear front/rear suspension is new, the brake system, engine, trans....you name it.

- Joel

 

i have the pro fab stuff and i am considering selling the setup in favor of the spohn parts that will come out soon. i have spohn LCAs, PHB and reloc kit, awesome quality, i expect the same from their new K and As. hopefully the price will be just as fair as it is for the rest of their stuff

 

Me to.. Thats why I love working there I didnt know this was you Dean or I wouldn't have said anything. lol "Hopefully" (I can't stress that enough) next week I'll be out testing the coil over setup with the a arms on my IROC.. I put about 1000 miles or so on my car a week, so if something is going to break, it should with my car. Even tho I know nothing will.

Kat

 

Well...I've done much research the past couple days between AJE, PA, ProFab, Spohn, and even BMR (even though they only make them for 4th gens). All I can say is that I'm going to wait for the Spohn unit....I've been reading alot and gathering info. from multiple sources.....Spohn is the way to go for me....and I won't buy anything before I gather all the necessary info. and determine it's the best possible piece out there. I don't settle for anything less than the best and I'm going to hold out for Spohn. My guess for the K member would be early in the upcoming year. I can wait....I know it'll be worth it. I couldn't be happier with my Spohn TA, LCA's, brackets, etc...

- Joel

PS - in regards to the MS vs. CM tubing...the strength to weight ratio is greater on CM than with MS so ideally makers will use a smaller tube such as .058 CM vs a .095 for MS for the weight reduction.

- Joel

 

pretty cool ive always wanted tube a arms and a k member.i have several pieces from spohn and no problems really great company i would recomend them to anyone and there prices are good

 

Any thoughts on S&W or Racecraft K-members?

 

Good question....The thing about the S&W piece is I believe they don't have a version that has spring perches....and alot of people here don't want to convert to coil overs.

On Racecraft...I couldn't find any info on the k members yet....and their website mentions info will be available soon.

 

So on the ProFab k-member, would that clear the AC compressor for those of us doung LT1/LS1 swaps?

Thanks, Matt

 

The one's S&W sells are made by PA Racing.

 

How much $ did it run you?

 

I know Pa Racings clear for LS1's. Also you can use or get almost any type of rack for them in power or manual.

 

i've read on another web sit that there is a clearance issue at the fender well for the coil over spring set up. is this true?

 

This could be true depending on how wide of a rim/tire you run.

 

my first post, so sorry if its messed up...
(it already did, used new thread. grrr)
(sorry...)

i got a 454 for my 91 Camaro to replace my 355. waiting for headers, brackets and some other stuff.
but i need the k-member in 3 weeks or so.
anyone want to group purchase some of them?

if Spohn is better and not too expensive great, but i can't wait too long.

morten

 

Uh, I do not believe spohn makes one...

 

Spohn's k-member is not available as of yet....he's released the A-arms though.......

- Joel

 

has anyone resolved the power steering problems with the fox body setup? Im curious about everyones setup and how well it has turned out.

Im looking for something more stock thats just not as bulky and big. IE something thats not in the way of EVERYTHING i need to get to. Headers, sparkplugs, wiring...all in a breeze.

So how about a k-member with stock perches/mounts (the most stock version, A-arms with spring perches, and stock steering setup. Is that all that would be needed. Just looking for an easy setup that is very compatible

 

I saw something like that in a SuperStock F-body car a few years ago.

The factory K-member was still bolted to the car and used factory A-arms but the section that went under the engine was completely changed. They just cut it right out, made some extensions to drop down below the engine at the frame rails then welded in some tubes going across under the engine.

Front suspension was still "stock" but there was a lot of room around the engine for headers etc.

 

My buddy did that in his S10 for a 406 with a moroso oil pan. and custom headers we made.Came out great. but for all the work it took to notch the top sides for the headers and the botom for the pan. You would have been beter off just buying a tubular setup.

 

The SS guys must keep all the factory type steering/suspension components, but are allowed to modify them to fit an engine combination. A lot of them run full length (sump) oil pans with huge kick-outs. Another thing that they do on the 3rd gens is reverse the center link to gain additional clearance for the front of the oil pan and vibe damper, but you must readjust the bumpsteer.

 

What do you mean by reverse the center link? It's already installed from the bottom up into the pitman and idler arm so the low part is down. Does swapping left to right gain anything? It looks the same height on both sides.

Or do you mean to move the idler arm and pitman arm to angle forward instead of backward. This can't work because your steering would then be backwards. Turn left, go right.

 

I guess I should have been a liitle more clear. You remove the center link and turn it 180*, left to right (not up to down). The center part of the bar between the pitman and idler arm has a drop in it. When you install it backwards (or reversed) it puts the dropped portion away from the engine, giving you more clearance in this area. It also places the inner tie rod ends on the front of the center link, so bumpsteer will have to be readjusted by shimming the outer tie rods lower off of the knuckles.

 

OK, I just ran out to the garage, -30c outside, to have another look at the design.

I see now. Somehow I never noticed that before. Flipping it side to side will gain a little more clearance just because of how it's angled. It might be just the little bit more I need. I don't think it will allow enough to use a full length sump oil pan or allow the engine to drop past the center link. My headers won't allow that much drop anyway because the #6 tube loops across the top of the frame rail. A 1/2" - 3/4" drop would still be great! The pan currently sits about 1/4" off the center link. I can't move the engine back any farther because the headers tubes touch both frame rails and the third gen frame rails taper inward at the back of the engine bay.

No interference problem between the tie rod and the pitman arm when it's mounted that way? The third gen pitman arm is 5-1/2" center to center. A 5" pitman and idler arm could add a little bit more clearance.

Just more things to add to my weekend projects.

 

While my car doen't have this done, nearly every SS 3rd gen out there has this mod. Apparently the tie rod clearance between the pitman and idler arms isn't an issue, especially when you shim the outer tie rod off of the knuckle. Also, to correct bumpsteer when this is done, the outer tie rod ends are replaced with heim joints and custom tie rod sleeves that are made to fit to the stock inner tie rods. The tapered hole in the knuckle is drilled out so a straight bolt can be used to go through the knuckle, spacer (or shim), and the heim joint ball end. I believe that Ed Quay sells this as a kit. You also might want to try FJ Smith Performance, who's also located in Canada.

 

He needs to get on the ball lol. I saw the arms today when checking to see if the K members were ready yet. I'm buying my big block next week and I want to get my K member and front suspension swaped out ASAP. Just so I can get my fitment issues resolved before the car goes to my chassis guy for the 10pt. cage.

I'd prefer to have all of my chassis/suspension Spohn parts, as much as possible. It'll be full race, but I need to get a lot done by T&T opening day. and I don't want to settle for a BMR or PA Raciing lol.

 

Since this link doesn't work, can someone send me the pictures, or a link to somewhere where they are hosted?

My setup is almost identical, except I'm using hedman shorty headers and I'm having steernig shaft to primary tube interference.

-- Joe

 

sorry, i dont use that server anymore... heres a new link.:

New link to Kmember pics

 

Hey Z-rated where did you get that steering shaft for your power rack? Also is that the bumpsteer kit from PA racing?

Thanks, Chris

 

im guessing the sale price went back up on these looks to be 350 nowand not 250. how often do they go on sale?. im finally in the market for one and saving 100$ never hurt anybody. my car will be a weekend warrior more then a daily driver but yea ill putt putt it @ town from time to time. im still considering the tubular A arms but im weiry bout then and stock A arms dont look like they weigh that much more..mabey they do i dunno if you do whats the difference and is that few pound worth the possible flex/breaking of an A arm?

 

call and ask for the price.

its always said $350.... but you can always ask for a discount. worst thing that can happen is they dont give it to ya.

 

I think I see what I did wrong. I used a top knuckle from a 4th gen, and I really need the column to be a bit longer. about 2-3" for it to work. I guess I'll have to weld some stock to it.

He's not on the boards anymore, but *I* used a flaming river
DD bar, flaming river knuckle, and 4th gen knuckle for top.


-- Joe

 

Thanks man!

-- Joe

 

on page one dated jan 19th jerrywho stated they were 250 dollors now they show 350. thats why i asked how often do they go on sale? i realize its the 25th of feb now.

 

 

Heres mine, PA racing chromoly kmember and a-arms

 

I've been thinking about this for a long time, and in order for me to reach my weight goals of the IROC, I think I'm gonna need to go with tubular front end parts. After I heard about roadracing versions of the k-member earlier on in this thread, I feel much better about ordering one.

I wonder if we can make a little list of each manufacturers k-member types (street/race), avl materials, the thickness, the weight, and the price. If anyone can provide the emails for all these manufacturers I got no problem sending the mails out. I dont see the race versions or specs listed on alot of websites. Or if you guys have the specs, please list them. I think I have one email addy for PA racing, so I'll send that off now. I'll also prune the thread again and see if I can get some specs. If we can make a list with all these specs it'll probably be easier for people to choose which one they want.

AJE - http://www.ajeracing.com/
PA Racing - http://www.paracing.com/
ProFab - http://www.profabracing.homestead.com
Spohn - http://www.spohn.net/

 

A few months ago I made some calls and sent some emails asking those same questions....I made a list of the differences in the tubing they used in terms of diameter and thickness of the tubing for steel and chromoly. I'll have to search around for my notes, but from my findings speaking with the manufacturers you mentioned, I've personally decided to wait as long as it takes for the Spohn k-member to be available! It will be worth it from what limited info I have gathered! I'm one of those **** mutherf'rs that won't settle for anything but the best....and I'll wait as long as it takes to get exactly what I want and won't settle for anything less....so I'm waiting.

- Joel

 

I'll probably wait too. I emailed AJE and PA, soon as they reply I'll start a little list. Couldnt find email for ProFab and didnt wanna bother Steve since hes still working on it. This will be for a k-member that retains the stock style strut/spring suspension, has standard SBC mounts, standard steering rack (re-use OEM), and pertches for the springs. I'm also getting info on the A-Arms that would match. Hope to list them all by material, version (regular/race), thickness, weight, and price. Guys that want other addons (for coilovers or whatever) can just add the prices of those addons to whatever specs we get.

 

I wouldn't hold your breath. I talked to steve about this a few times over the last two years.. He's worse than a house builder. "two weeks".

When it is done, i'm sure it will be hundreds more than everyone elses. Don't get me wrong, i've purchased spohn stuff before. And what I got was good, but his pricing is off the wall.

BTW, thirdgens don't have an OEM steering rack.

-- Joe

 

Well the steering with the mustang rack, and spindles in stock form absolutely SUCK. Horrible.

Profab said if I send them my spindles, for $50 they will modify them to correct the steering ratio. I'm going to try that, with a 2.25 lock-lock cobra rack. If it isnt at least identical to the ws6 box (better be better!) i'm ripping it out and going back to stock.

-- Joe

 

I made this for those considering a swap, I intended to make a page for my site. if someone else wants to steal a page from my site and use these pictures to make me a "how to" page I will do it for you to refer people to. If you have any questions about the images, please ask away.

BTW:

my stock K-memb w/a-arms, motor mounts, coil springs and front sway bar weighed 129.5 lbs

my PA racing K w/arms in mild steel, moroso solid mounts, with coil over kits was 44 lbs

http://www.outlawperformance.com/ima...mods_09-25-04/

 

Who's coil over kit is that?

 

the one I got from PA when I got the K-member