Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Post pics of Suspension mods

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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 02:18 PM
  #51  
Dewey316's Avatar
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Tim,

where did you get that from?

google was not much help in searching for it.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 02:35 PM
  #52  
Dale's Avatar
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
try msn, I found it. Copy clipped the name, and pasted it.

Cost was almost 200 for axle cover
then the bars were almost 200 again.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 04:13 PM
  #53  
TRAXION's Avatar
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From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
Originally posted by Dale
try msn, I found it. Copy clipped the name, and pasted it.

Cost was almost 200 for axle cover
then the bars were almost 200 again.
I paid $150 for the cover and ~$100 for the brace kit. However, I still have the most expensive 10-bolt imagineable

Genuine GM 3.73's
Auburn PRO Posi
GW LCA Relocation Brackets
Timken Bearings
Special 1350 Pinion Yoke
LPW 'Ultimate' rearend cover
LPW Axle Tube brace kit

This spring I'll be having the axle tubes welded the center pumpkin and replacing the crush sleeve with a solid spacer.

Too much money invested in a crappy POS 10-bolt. Please - nobody do what I did. It's not worth it.

Tim
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 04:30 PM
  #54  
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Originally posted by Kontrax
you use hunter too? heh. the adjustable panhard is also good if you use a different wheel. i used a different offset 15 inch wheel with the lift on my car and had to re-align the rear. i hope all goes well with your swap i wanted the stick myself, but im pushing big power and i like the ease of auto. i have a GTA with a stick im going to work on next though. 1st thing is a total rebuild on the suspension. i plan on sticking with BMR products. im impressed with all the stuff i got with them before. to bad they dont make 3rd gen k members.

Kontrax,

I can see why you would want to stick w/auto in your
supercharged motor. The stock T-56 out of the 94-97
F bodies hold up to about 400hp/450ft. lbs. That's quite
a bit, but if you are wanting more power, like over 400hp
with 500 ft lbs. It's a LOT cheaper to just have a built
TH400 or 700R4 trans. Modifying a T-56 is not cheap
however. Usually done with Viper T-56 parts.

It would make sense to rebuild your suspension first,
then do the drivetrain mods. That way, your car should
hold up the power and make it stick to the ground. That's
why I did like 90% of the suspension/chassis first. I think
my car is going to be silly once I get the Spohn Torque Arm.

BMR is a great manufacturer of chassis parts. I think it's
just as good as Spohn. I wish Spohn would get into making
more suspension parts like BMR does. But, Spohn is not
that old so I think it will take a while. I know you said you
wanted to stick with BMR parts, but Summit or Jegs has
the tubular K members and tubular A arms. I forgot the
name, I think it's K and R racing?
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 04:31 PM
  #55  
1bad91Z's Avatar
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From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
Transmission: You!
I'd like to do something like this to my car:
Attached Thumbnails Post pics of Suspension mods-tqarm.jpg  
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 04:42 PM
  #56  
Camaro_nut's Avatar
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Originally posted by TRAXION
I paid $150 for the cover and ~$100 for the brace kit. However, I still have the most expensive 10-bolt imagineable

Genuine GM 3.73's
Auburn PRO Posi
GW LCA Relocation Brackets
Timken Bearings
Special 1350 Pinion Yoke
LPW 'Ultimate' rearend cover
LPW Axle Tube brace kit

This spring I'll be having the axle tubes welded the center pumpkin and replacing the crush sleeve with a solid spacer.

Too much money invested in a crappy POS 10-bolt. Please - nobody do what I did. It's not worth it.

Tim

I did! Was done last summer......

Richmond "noise maker" 3.73s
Richmond installation kit
Superior custom alloy 28 spline axles (thicker than stock!)
SLP heavy duty zexel torsion diff. ( expensive as hell!)
Ratech solid bearing spacer
Summit rear end support cover
Redline gear oil

total est. :$1,300. It's about $1,000 less than the Moser
12 bolt shipped to my house. But, there's NO comparsion
to the 12 bolt! I am "gambling" the rear for now. If it does
blow up, ah well..the Moser 12 bolt w/disc brakes will go
in! You'd be surprised that some F bodies ( mainly 4th gen,
but the rears are almost the same, strengthwise) do 10s
in the 1/4 mile on a STOCK 10 bolt rear! Wooahh! It may
be a short lived 10 bolt, but it's still taking quite a beating.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 04:51 PM
  #57  
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From: Rockledge, PA
9 Bolt BW rear with 3.27 gears and Lakewood traction bars


Better shot of breackets


Lakewood Adj Panhard Bar


Competion 3 way Adjustable Shocks
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 06:35 PM
  #58  
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
my cars chassy is completely done already. all made for serious power. ill be over 400 i know that, the motor alone is close to that. i found a 700r4 that can take 630HP/TQ for 1200 so im pretty set on that. i only have a few finishing touches to do and the car should be ready to hit the street by summer. in the GTA i might just go wit ha richmond or something, not thinking that far ahead yet. still have to finish the 1st car. and yes, hawks carries the k member you spoke of. jegs does also. that will be the 1st thing i do to the GTA since its a big part and ill have the motor out 1st anyways


Conlinj,
i notice you painted the rear. i also have starting painting mine with por15. how did you clean out all the rust in the divits around the diff case? i hit mine with my angle grinder and a knott wheel, but could not manage to get in the divits. any advice?

Last edited by Kontrax; Feb 18, 2004 at 06:38 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2004 | 06:52 PM
  #59  
Frains90RS's Avatar
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Posts: 276
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From: Long Beach, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 1997 Trans Am rear w/ posi -3.23
Originally posted by Kontrax
Conlinj,
i notice you painted the rear. i also have starting painting mine with por15. how did you clean out all the rust in the divits around the diff case? i hit mine with my angle grinder and a knott wheel, but could not manage to get in the divits. any advice?
I painted my 95Z rear with POR-15. Stuff's great. I managed to get in most of the nooks and crannies with a wire wheel bit attached to a drill. Took me the majority of the day to do the entire job (including the paint).
Good luck, Efrain.
Edit: I knew knot wheel sounded familiar. Disregard the previous post, I was suggesting something he already tried.

Last edited by Frains90RS; Feb 18, 2004 at 07:05 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2004 | 08:43 AM
  #60  
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From: Rockledge, PA
That's what I did too, wire brushed the whole thing down to bare, coated it with rudy brown primer then painted it. Took a while but i like the outcome
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Old Feb 19, 2004 | 09:01 AM
  #61  
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From: Parrish, Florida (Glad it ain't Vegas)
Car: 94 Corvette
Engine: LT-1
Transmission: Freakin Automatic---For Now
Borla
How do you like them PA A-Arms? That is the last thing I need to finish (OMG, did I use the "f" word) the front suspension in my car. Oops, forgot about brakes... The rear is almost done too, all I need there is my 4.10, and torque arm. The 4.10's go in as soon as I finish the 6-speed.
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Old Feb 19, 2004 | 08:18 PM
  #62  
Kontrax's Avatar
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
i mean how did you guys get into the deep holes by the diff? the wheels is much to large to fit in there. i tried a wire wheel on the dremel but it only lasts about 2 minutes then the wheel is bare... dont tell me you painted over all the crap that built up in there...
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Old Feb 20, 2004 | 09:13 PM
  #63  
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From: San Jose, CA
Originally posted by GTA-SPD
Borla
How do you like them PA A-Arms? That is the last thing I need to finish (OMG, did I use the "f" word) the front suspension in my car. Oops, forgot about brakes... The rear is almost done too, all I need there is my 4.10, and torque arm. The 4.10's go in as soon as I finish the 6-speed.
actually i still havent installed the k-member or a-arms yet. soon as my blower motor is done everything is goin in...but who knows when i'll be done. i dont feel motivated right now.
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Old Feb 21, 2004 | 07:51 AM
  #64  
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From: Rockledge, PA
Originally posted by Kontrax
i mean how did you guys get into the deep holes by the diff? the wheels is much to large to fit in there. i tried a wire wheel on the dremel but it only lasts about 2 minutes then the wheel is bare... dont tell me you painted over all the crap that built up in there...
Gloves and compressed air couldn't get it all out but did get most of it
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Old Feb 23, 2004 | 10:15 AM
  #65  
GTA-SPD's Avatar
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From: Parrish, Florida (Glad it ain't Vegas)
Car: 94 Corvette
Engine: LT-1
Transmission: Freakin Automatic---For Now
Originally posted by BORLAZ06
actually i still havent installed the k-member or a-arms yet. soon as my blower motor is done everything is goin in...but who knows when i'll be done. i dont feel motivated right now.
I know all about that motivation thing. I am still putting off the re-wiring for the serpentine conversion in my car. I have to finish that task, so I can start the 6-speed. My wife is a little bummed, since I snagged the T-56 from her Z. I think in the end, she'll be happier with the auto it there anyway.
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