What tool or tools do I need to remove this part and replace it with the new one??? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

pickel fork to separate the tie rod ball joint from the idler arm, get one made to separate ball joints because they can be used on tie rods and ball joints....also on your other post you need a ball joint press in order to press the ball joint into the A arms.

 

thanks VJO...I've never worked on this stuff before!!!

 

A pickle fork will chew up the rubber seal. After you have loosened the idler arm bolts, undo the ball stud nut nut at the centre link about half way to where there is no longer a lot of torque. Jack up the end of the idler arm to support it near ball stud and then, using an 18" bar as a drift pound down on the nut with a sledge hammer from above. Eventually (hopefully before you damage the threads) the taper will break loose and you'll be able to remove the nut by hand. When assembling the new idler arm, use a stack of washers under the nut to seat the taper before the nut is on all the way, where it becomes a locknut. Remove the washers and tighten the nut to 35 ft-lbs. The frame has slotted holes where the idler arm mounts and you must adjust its height before finally tightening the bolts. The proper way to do this is to set the height the same as it is on the steering box side. The centre link has flats machined on the bottom at each end. You put an 18mm socket on the head of the LCA pivot bolt and lay a large hex key on the flat so the other end is just below the socket. Measure the distance between the socket and hex key on the driver side and jack up the idler arm to give the same dimension within 1mm before torquing the idler arm bolts to 35 ft-lbs. If you aren't able to do this, at least try to eyeball it. If the idler arm is installed where it hangs at the bottom of the slots, the steering geometry will be a bit messed up and you may get weird tire wear.

 

i used a tie rod separator. same thing as a pickel fork. worked well.

 

If I decide to use the pickle fork and I mess up the seal, is it a big deal to get another seal and just replace it???

 

i dont think you can get a new seal for the idler arm.. i would just use a pickel fork. just go slow and watch the seal. if you think you're gonna damage it, stop. it shouldnt take more than a few good hits to loosen it anyway.

 

Actually, the proper tool is a tierod end puller, which you can probably rent (some parts stores don't charge for renting tools). If you do damage the seal, it's not a really big deal because it doesn't do a whole lot. You might be able to find one from an old tierod end at an alignment shop if you ask.

 

Thanks OLDYELLR!!! Now I've just got to get my hands dirty. I really appreciate all the help guys!!!

 

I did not know the idler arm was adjuatable! That sucks. Would you be able to install everything and then put a level on the centerlink to make sure it is even and level? That seems to be the most logical way to get the steering geometry even. I am not sure of this, it is just a educated guess.
????

 

That may work if the car is sitting on a level floor.

 

AWWWW, man!!! Can I say DUH???? Sorry for the dumb question, my brain was not working just then. I will use your method with the lca bolt as my reference point.

 

To level mine I used a level and also a ruler to measure each end of the center link to floor.

 

http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/idlerarm.html

 

Wow...you guys have been very helpful!!! Thanks for the link MRR23. I bought a pickle fork today and I'll probably change out the idler arm tomorrow. Thanks again to everyone!!!