could someone please tell me, how long is the adjustable panhard rod, not including the rod ends. Im building my own and would like a starting point. I just need to know how long the tube pat is. thanks

 

I think i made mine 39.5". But really, why trust me or anybody, comeon just measure the one thats on there.

 

I used a 39.5" tube on mine too. Stock center to center distance of the mounting bolts is 43".

Some options:
Coleman RP-128-395 is a 39.5" aluminum tube, 1 1/8 OD, .220 wall threaded 3/4" RH and LH. $22, plus the rod ends and jam nuts.

Coleman 19969 is an assembly, comes with rod ends and jam nuts, 1.25" OD steel tube for $73, but you need to specify the center to center distance as 43" when you order it, and I don't know what quality the rod ends are.

Stock Car Products 7935.5A is a 39.5" long, 1" OD, .156 wall aluminum tube with hex end and 3/4" RH/LH thread, $22. I use this with QA1 rod ends on my 84 Z autocross car which also sees limited street duty. Its a pretty light duty piece though - I'd recommend the Coleman one for the same price.

SCP 7935.5 is the same bar in steel - 1" OD, .156 wall. Same price.

I've had the best luck (as far as durability goes) with QA1 rod ends, which you can get from Jegs for about $23 each in the 3/4" size.

 

DSM, is your vehicle at stick ride height? I plan on putting lowering springs, eibachs. so I think the needed center to center length would be different correct? I dont know how long the threaded area is on the rod ends but I would assume that the tube would need to be at least 1 inch shorter would you agree? thak for the help guys, building this stuff ourselves is a whole lot cheaper than buying the pre-made ones.

 

My car has been at several different ride heights and I've used this length, with and without a relocation bracket on the axle end https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=248685 The 39.5" length leaves plenty of room for adjustment with proper thread engagement.

FWIW, my current ride height has the fender opening at 27", and with the relocation bracket my center to center distance is 43 1/8"...which is longer than stock. The center to center distance requirement isnt going to vary anywhere near 1" no matter what you do to the ride height.

 

I cut about 2 dead coils from my rear springs so it sits pretty low now. There is less than an inch gap between the tire and the fender. BTW i have 235/60-15's in the rear. I will agree i made mine 39.5" and screwed the rod ends with 1/3" to spare on both sides. The bar is so long and the that lowering the car doesn't change the bar angle much. So the axle is not moved very much when using lowering springs. Thats how the system works in these cars. Think about it, what would happen if you went over a bump while cornering if it designed differently. The axle and tire would move over so much that it would hit the fender. That doesn't happen does it.

 

DSM, ok thats cool I was just a little concerned is all. ME leigh, I used to be able to take corners and my tire would rub the inner fender well, not exactly what u were using as an example but I figured it was interesting none the less. BTW I got my panhard rod and control arms boxed and replaced the bushings with poly and the problem no longer is a problem.