What are your favorite supension upgrades for better traction?

 

Subframe connectors, Relocation brackets, shocks/struts,
Tires, LCAs. Torque arm

You could throw in a torque arm sooner but they are fairly pricey....

 

Do you have a preference for the brands?

 

http://www.spohn.net/

Great products, and a Sponcer of this message board. See the advetisments at the top??

 

man my advice is go straight with the tires first!! i have 4 sets of radial tires, all 245-255 14-16 inch, and i tlel ya i cant hook up with a one ofthem! i got lca brackets and they didnt make it any better, possibly worse!! i have heardof ppl runing 13's on stock suspension, jsut good tires and a light front end! atleast that is my theory now!
tireas tires tires

 

M/T Drags - 26/10/15. i have bone stock suspension and run low 13's with a 1.8 rt.

 

Thats a TERRIBLE reaction time, but would make a decent 60' time

 

re: torque arm, the 3gen f.body,
has no torque arm, or,
the factory arm lets the pinion angle vary too much, or ???
Please enlighten me.

 

http://spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1300

 

i dont know about everyone here but im a bugdet racer so to speek. spohn is a little expensive for my wallet. jegs sfc are great. lakewood suppension shocks and struts greatly recommended. and lca lakewood as well.

 

Eibach drag launch springs

Koni red adjustable front and rear shocks (struts set all the way soft for traction)

remove the front sway bar at the track

aftermarket LCA's and panhard rod....

26x11.5 mickey thompson ET streets

south side machine lift bars......cause torque arms suck:lala:

1.64 60'

 

again

 

how do those SSM Lift bars do in the twistie roads

I'l love to get away from a TRQ arm when I put my 9inch in the rear. I like to do both though 1/4 mile and scca.

 

they're very stable, and you dont need a swaybar in the rear anymore, as the axle and lift bars are one solid unit......the kit provides instructions on how to modify them to keep the swaybar, but its really not needed...

its not the IDEAL setup for autox mind you, but there is NO body roll which makes it feel very very stable.

alot of mustang guys switch to a torque arm setup for road racing and autox....its really a great setup for that, the stock piece sucks though

 

Ya the look essentially like a homeade ladder bar setup like this I can do.

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...ladderBars.JPG

This 84Z hood Hard at our local 1/8th trace and runs 11.7's at the local 1/7

 

ya kinda like that only alot beefier.

im going to change the angles of my LCA's and see if i cant get more anti-squat without adjusting anything else

 

Don't those bars just turn the rear end into a swing arm? Since "the axle and lift bars are one solid unit", you don't need a swaybar because the rear end will NOT be allowed to roll. If the welds are good enough then you can take out the LCAs. I would not use this for anything but a dedicated drag car.

 

thats what someone who has never gone for a ride in my car says......i drive it about 200 miles a week, and it rides and handles fantastic

you still NEED to have the LCA's

it is far and away NOT the same exact thing as a ladder bar setup, its more of a hybrid between a ladder bar and a 4 link....with the lift bars acting as the lower links, and the LCA's acting as the upper links.

 

I have looked and looked for Lakewood's site and have found 100's of Lakewood's

need Lakewood URL if available...
thanks, Cocacolakidd

 

My suspension mods include:

Hotchkis strut tower brace
Hotchkis panhard rod
Lakewood boxed rear lower control arms
Energy Suspension torque arm mount, tranny mount, secondary tranny mounts
Jeg's subframe connectors
Energy Suspension front sway bar ends
Firestone Firehawk GTA 205/50/16's


Do NOT get tires as small as mine! The car slams over bumps!! Handles like crazy though. I picked them up cheap, that's why I have them!

 

why do you still have your stock snokel on your car?

in my opinion spohn is not all that great. and its to pricey so pic yourself up a jegs or summit catolog and go to town. jegs sfc are awesome. and lakewood traction lift bars are also sweet. then get yourself some 50/50 rear shocks and some 90/10 struts and you will lose about 2 seconds on a stock car. well atleast i did with my 305tbi.

 

lol everyone asks that. It holds up my washer reseviour

What brand shocks/struts are the best? Non-adjustable I mean, as I really don't have the time or the know-how!

 

i prefer lakewood just cus they have been around for a long time and they are not expensive. but if you want the "best" bilstein but they come with a hefty price. but i dont know how good they are ive never tried them.

 

bilsteins are great...they come stock on some of the LT1 SS's. a buddy of mine had a 96 SS with the stock bilstien shock/struts on his car up until he got rid of it a couple of weeks ago. They lasted 8 years on the original set.

 

I've cut 1.74 on street tires with all stock suspension. And the sway bar still on the car. I'd want some 1.5's if I spent any amount of $$$ on good tires!!!

Billsteins are valved stiffer, the ones that came on the SS are stiffer than the WS6 shocks, which is good for the twisties, but not what you want to do.

 

 

Could you tell me the part number for the ssm lift bars and where you got yours from?

 

You think so Mr. Know It All?

 

ya i do, 1.74 on street tires with stock suspension??

thats the biggest bunch of BS i've ever heard in my life.

1.9x would be FANTASTIC on street tires, especially with a stock suspension

my car ends up in the mid 1.7's with bad track prep, launched at 4900 rpm, with 11.5" mickey's good and hot, lift bars, hotchkis control arms, adjustable shocks/struts, drag springs, and full weight (3666lb race weight)

and thats not bad.....with good track prep its in the mid 1.6's which is fantastic

also with an automatic, which im assuming isnt a super high stall, and street tires so you CANNOT blast it out of the hole.

what kind of tires, and lets see the timeslip

 

Gonna have to get them used, SSM is out of business. (trust me on that one, try and get some support on these!)

For some reason, they pop up on ebay a lot, but only for Mustangs... eww

 

Thanks for letting me know they are not available any longer.

 

the lakewood site is either something like www.mrgasket.com or i just use jegs when i want something.

 

Sounds like you need to take a little more time setting up all those fancy parts then

Customer of mine with a LS1/TH400 cut a 1.36 with Hoosiers and a competition engineering torque arm on an otherwise STOCK suspension and went 9.80....O yeah, no front swaybar Granted, the car is light, but I'm just trying to prove a point. You want to meet me at the track to see for yourself?

The stall is right around 2800, and the STR is a little high......so I CAN blast it out of the hole. Leave at about 1200 to flash the converter. 1.74 was a freak run because it dead hooked. Call it luck if you want. It averages 1.85-1.87 consistently which according to you isn't feasable

I'll scan that timeslip and be sure to post it up. I'll even PM you the link when I do so I make sure you see it. Although you'll probably tell me it isn't my time slip anyway so what does it matter?

 

a 1.36 on a 9.8? dude please

scan those while your at it

we have guys here running in the 8's that are just edging into the 1.3x area.......carrying the front wheels on 4 links with coil overs in the quick street class.

i dont buy it, the numbers are like a tenth lower than what should be expected WITH superior suspension components....and your claiming with stock parts.

i doubt stock stamped steel control arms would even survive a 1.36 short time for christ sake
not happening at 10 seconds.

 

Think what you want. I'm not here to impress you. Get a life and have fun in your little world. I'll send you the timeslips. Get a life a$$hole.

 

yeah i think your full of it too. because i have trouble cutting 1.7 and i have a fairly modified suspension. post those slips.

 

My car has cut a 1.69 60ft on an uprepped track. My only suspension mods are air bags and 90/10 drag stuts. This was with 28X13.5X15 ET Streets.

 

Be careful what you say, you'll get flamed and called a liar.

 

lol nope thats you.....those 1.69 on a 28" mickey t is pretty good, and pretty likely with drag struts and air bags.