I am racing at a paved oval track and need more camber to turn better. does anyone know of a lower control arm that is longer than stock but not aftermarket? any help or how to's appreciated

 

Since you are running strickly circle track with your car and will not see highway use, Might I suggest using some just slightly smaller diameter strut-to-spindle bolts (the ones that are torqued down to over 150lbs) and shim them slightly so the spindle ***** more neg camber. Use grade 8 bolts and don't drive the car on the streets. If it were to break on you on the track its reasonalbly safe. Depends on what the car looks like (if its a budget class and don't mind getting bumped up a bit or you have real heavy cash into it) and how much you feel like cheating and risking a potential failure over time. Just inspect it periodically.

 

Look into seeing if an offset bushing will work. I'm pretty sure they make offset LCA bushings for 4th gen F-bodies but I'm not sure about our cars.

My other question is, how much camber do you need? You should be able to get about 2-2.5* of negative camber out of the stock setup IIRC.

 

You can gain a couple degrees worth of additional adjustment by elongating the strut-to-spindle mounting holes. That was a GM-recommended procedure for thirdgens being raced in IROC and other factory-stock type classes, BTW.

 

Thanks for alls input, I will try it out this saturday and see how it goes.

 

Just slotting the strut brackets allowing them to be moved in more will give you a little more camber as well as a slight improvement in suspension geometry. I wouldn’t run smaller bolts just because those things are seriously stressed and you’re asking for problems there… I would also suggest that drilling them out larger and then making an offset bushing would actually be the best way to go (welding them and redrilling wouldn’t be bad but welding on a strut is very dangerous).

For offset bushings look into the fiero world… it’s a pretty common thing to do with the pre 89 cars.

If you wanted to be stealthy, welding up the holes in the K-member and redrilling would probably be the best way to go