Tubular A-arm broke!
#101
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Car: Agood2.8,
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Does the AJE coilover setup come with Torrington bearings on the top and bottom of the coil mount surfaces? If not then I would highly suggest buying some and putting them on there if its going to be driven daily. A strut coilover frontend needs to swivel the coil when the car is turned to the left or right. I think the AJE setup is sold basically for straightly low use drag racing where binding around corners and wear associated with it will not be and issue. Same with the PA coilover kit and Morrison I believe. Please correct me if I am wrong on my info.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
heres the pics of the diffrent A arm pockets...
obviously, the pocket itself can be improved, but just note the way the straps attach to the round plate....
obviously, the pocket itself can be improved, but just note the way the straps attach to the round plate....
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Originally posted by RTFC
Does the AJE coilover setup come with Torrington bearings on the top and bottom of the coil mount surfaces? If not then I would highly suggest buying some and putting them on there if its going to be driven daily. A strut coilover frontend needs to swivel the coil when the car is turned to the left or right. I think the AJE setup is sold basically for straightly low use drag racing where binding around corners and wear associated with it will not be and issue. Same with the PA coilover kit and Morrison I believe. Please correct me if I am wrong on my info.
Does the AJE coilover setup come with Torrington bearings on the top and bottom of the coil mount surfaces? If not then I would highly suggest buying some and putting them on there if its going to be driven daily. A strut coilover frontend needs to swivel the coil when the car is turned to the left or right. I think the AJE setup is sold basically for straightly low use drag racing where binding around corners and wear associated with it will not be and issue. Same with the PA coilover kit and Morrison I believe. Please correct me if I am wrong on my info.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
also, heres a link to fullsize PA (LS1) and Profab SBC (with a LS1 mount on it) sitting side by side:
http://66.83.134.202/travis/Kmember/...of%20my%20car/
http://66.83.134.202/travis/Kmember/...of%20my%20car/
#106
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Car: Agood2.8,
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Originally posted by LT1guy
We didn't actually see the coilover setup, but I'm thinking its just like the PA setup. Where can we get the Torrington bearings you mentioned? Your point makes a lot of sense.
We didn't actually see the coilover setup, but I'm thinking its just like the PA setup. Where can we get the Torrington bearings you mentioned? Your point makes a lot of sense.
Here is the PDF file showing the neddle bearing and thrust washer kits. You'll have to meassure you specific spring pockets and strut diamemter to pick the appropriate thrust bearing dimensions for your need. Page 331
http://www.timken.com/industries/tor...r/r_thrust.pdf
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by Kenwood
Cool>>welcome to the AJE nutswinger club...LOL. So I take it you got his arms and stuff as well??
Cool>>welcome to the AJE nutswinger club...LOL. So I take it you got his arms and stuff as well??
#108
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by RTFC
Does the AJE coilover setup come with Torrington bearings on the top and bottom of the coil mount surfaces? If not then I would highly suggest buying some and putting them on there if its going to be driven daily. A strut coilover frontend needs to swivel the coil when the car is turned to the left or right. I think the AJE setup is sold basically for straightly low use drag racing where binding around corners and wear associated with it will not be and issue. Same with the PA coilover kit and Morrison I believe. Please correct me if I am wrong on my info.
Does the AJE coilover setup come with Torrington bearings on the top and bottom of the coil mount surfaces? If not then I would highly suggest buying some and putting them on there if its going to be driven daily. A strut coilover frontend needs to swivel the coil when the car is turned to the left or right. I think the AJE setup is sold basically for straightly low use drag racing where binding around corners and wear associated with it will not be and issue. Same with the PA coilover kit and Morrison I believe. Please correct me if I am wrong on my info.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by MrDude_1
style 2... notice the now one piece inside brace.
style 2... notice the now one piece inside brace.
Last edited by redraif; 06-06-2005 at 07:47 PM.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by MrDude_1
also, heres a link to fullsize PA (LS1) and Profab SBC (with a LS1 mount on it) sitting side by side:
http://66.83.134.202/travis/Kmember/...of%20my%20car/
also, heres a link to fullsize PA (LS1) and Profab SBC (with a LS1 mount on it) sitting side by side:
http://66.83.134.202/travis/Kmember/...of%20my%20car/
Seeing this and seeing AJE over the weekend...I'm so glad I went with AJE! Sooo much beefier! And engineered so much better! Can't wait to get it and post up pics to let you all see!
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by RTFC
I searched for a site that would sell them and it turns out Timken has bought out Torrington and has taken over the company sales.
Here is the PDF file showing the neddle bearing and thrust washer kits. You'll have to meassure you specific spring pockets and strut diamemter to pick the appropriate thrust bearing dimensions for your need. Page 331
http://www.timken.com/industries/tor...r/r_thrust.pdf
I searched for a site that would sell them and it turns out Timken has bought out Torrington and has taken over the company sales.
Here is the PDF file showing the neddle bearing and thrust washer kits. You'll have to meassure you specific spring pockets and strut diamemter to pick the appropriate thrust bearing dimensions for your need. Page 331
http://www.timken.com/industries/tor...r/r_thrust.pdf
Update...talked to the seller of AJEs kit. I have to call Anthony Jones tomorrow an ask about the bushings. If an provisions were made by now in this area, or if he would be willing to look into that for me! Plus I need to know what struts will or will not work with the coil over conversion. Thinking Koni, billstein, or tokiko (sp) as choices for new struts!
Last edited by redraif; 06-07-2005 at 10:27 PM.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
PIcs added
Ok they are not the best...must take better with the 35mm...
But it will give you an idea what was happening...
Same page, but more pics added!
But it will give you an idea what was happening...
Same page, but more pics added!
#113
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Man, I wish some more of those pics were in better focus…
From what I can see though, it appears to be an almost perfect example of putting the stress into the wrong place in an assembly, and why not to weld flat sections to the middle (radial) of a tube rather then tangentially (weld it down the middle, pull on it and it works like a can opener ripping the tube open, which is why the break was a little past the edge of the crosspiece).
I’m wondering, is:
Showing a crack in the pivot tube?
From what I can see though, it appears to be an almost perfect example of putting the stress into the wrong place in an assembly, and why not to weld flat sections to the middle (radial) of a tube rather then tangentially (weld it down the middle, pull on it and it works like a can opener ripping the tube open, which is why the break was a little past the edge of the crosspiece).
I’m wondering, is:
Showing a crack in the pivot tube?
#114
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Car: 1992 25th Anniversary Z28
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I'm sorry to hear about the bad news....obviously a higher power was watching out for you that day....things could have ended up alot worse.
Anyways....last year I did some research on materials and build quality of AJE, PA, and a couple other makers that were available then and from an engineering standpoint I was really quite disappointed with the information I was finding both from first hand users and via direct communication with the companies. I took into account the tubing quality, type of tubing, design, and welding. Hence at that point I decided I was going to wait for Steve Spohn to release his crossmember design and evaluate that product as my only option.
Every suspension component on my Z has been replaced BUT the crossmember and A-arms. New PHB, LCA's, rear end, torque arm, wonder bar, sway bars, brake system, SFC's, trans X-member, steering, shocks/struts, springs, ball joints, engine mounts, and every bushing. I have yet to find a design from a company that I am willing to put my life, my passenger's life, and innocent people's lives at risk with. I want only the absolute best....an a-arm failure on the highway or even on a residential road going 30mph can be devastating.
- Joel
Anyways....last year I did some research on materials and build quality of AJE, PA, and a couple other makers that were available then and from an engineering standpoint I was really quite disappointed with the information I was finding both from first hand users and via direct communication with the companies. I took into account the tubing quality, type of tubing, design, and welding. Hence at that point I decided I was going to wait for Steve Spohn to release his crossmember design and evaluate that product as my only option.
Every suspension component on my Z has been replaced BUT the crossmember and A-arms. New PHB, LCA's, rear end, torque arm, wonder bar, sway bars, brake system, SFC's, trans X-member, steering, shocks/struts, springs, ball joints, engine mounts, and every bushing. I have yet to find a design from a company that I am willing to put my life, my passenger's life, and innocent people's lives at risk with. I want only the absolute best....an a-arm failure on the highway or even on a residential road going 30mph can be devastating.
- Joel
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Man, I wish some more of those pics were in better focus…
From what I can see though, it appears to be an almost perfect example of putting the stress into the wrong place in an assembly, and why not to weld flat sections to the middle (radial) of a tube rather then tangentially (weld it down the middle, pull on it and it works like a can opener ripping the tube open, which is why the break was a little past the edge of the crosspiece).
I’m wondering, is:
Showing a crack in the pivot tube?
Man, I wish some more of those pics were in better focus…
From what I can see though, it appears to be an almost perfect example of putting the stress into the wrong place in an assembly, and why not to weld flat sections to the middle (radial) of a tube rather then tangentially (weld it down the middle, pull on it and it works like a can opener ripping the tube open, which is why the break was a little past the edge of the crosspiece).
I’m wondering, is:
Showing a crack in the pivot tube?
#117
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Car: 2000 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Since we are on the subject, here are pics of my coilover conversion incase someone wants to see the major differences without going and hunting it down.
and yes, stock a-arms fit the pa racing k-member
http://hustonstreetracing.com/guidop...tracing012.jpg
and yes, stock a-arms fit the pa racing k-member
http://hustonstreetracing.com/guidop...tracing012.jpg
#118
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Guido
and yes, stock a-arms fit the pa racing k-member
and yes, stock a-arms fit the pa racing k-member
in red is where the stock arm hits... notice this clears only because the tube isnt as wide as the bushing:
#119
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by Guido
Since we are on the subject, here are pics of my coilover conversion incase someone wants to see the major differences without going and hunting it down.
and yes, stock a-arms fit the pa racing k-member
http://hustonstreetracing.com/guidop...tracing012.jpg
Since we are on the subject, here are pics of my coilover conversion incase someone wants to see the major differences without going and hunting it down.
and yes, stock a-arms fit the pa racing k-member
http://hustonstreetracing.com/guidop...tracing012.jpg
We had only just started to talk about possibly doing the conversion to coil overs at all. In fact it was the loading on a tow truck & jacking the car up that got us really thinking hard about it! It such a pain to work on a lowered car! That and load the thing on the trailer w/o scraping. I think I need to get my wrecker guy a set of ramps to keep on his rig just for me!
#120
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I usually have them put the back of the wrecker bed on the tops of my Rhino ramps, it prevents some nose scraping. But be warned, most wreckers are heavy enough and can exert enough force with the hydraulics that they can crush rhino ramps. Mine have 2 big dings in the top from them and one looks like it started to buckle.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Man, I wish some more of those pics were in better focus…
Man, I wish some more of those pics were in better focus…
Otherwise I would hve had some pics taken with decent pixelation. Unlike my cheapy!
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Car: 1992 25th Anniversary Z28
Engine: 6.3L - 383
Transmission: 700R4; Vig 3200
Originally posted by redraif
Yeah went to the store today to get a memory stick for my deceased stepdads top of the line dig camera...(he passed away w/o telling anyone where the sticks were put). So I go to the store and buy the one gig one... well it kept saying memory stick error. Not sure if the camera can't handle storage that sized?
Otherwise I would hve had some pics taken with decent pixelation. Unlike my cheapy!
Yeah went to the store today to get a memory stick for my deceased stepdads top of the line dig camera...(he passed away w/o telling anyone where the sticks were put). So I go to the store and buy the one gig one... well it kept saying memory stick error. Not sure if the camera can't handle storage that sized?
Otherwise I would hve had some pics taken with decent pixelation. Unlike my cheapy!
#124
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Originally posted by redraif
(he passed away w/o telling anyone where the sticks were put)
(he passed away w/o telling anyone where the sticks were put)
(sorry)
I don’t think that anyone really wants a bigger picture, just one that is in focus. You could probably get it with your “cheapie” by focusing (press the shutter button part way) with the view finder centered on the part that you want in focus, then reframing it the way you want it and pressing the shutter button the rest of the way to take the picture. Also, anything that will cause some relative motion (ie, you holding the part) will result in some blur
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Car: 1992 firebird
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Transmission: 700r4
I would take them tubes to a local college with a materials class
and ask them to do a brinnel, or rockwell test on them . I bet you after all the welding they do on those tubes that they never normalize or heat treat the setup. I wonder if it be better done out of square tube.
Dan
and ask them to do a brinnel, or rockwell test on them . I bet you after all the welding they do on those tubes that they never normalize or heat treat the setup. I wonder if it be better done out of square tube.
Dan
#130
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Most camera flashes aren't designed for relatively small, close ups and you’ll get either part of the image lit up and big shadows in part or just generally unsatisfactory results. Shining a bright light (got a halogen work light?) on it will make it much better.
Most camera flashes aren't designed for relatively small, close ups and you’ll get either part of the image lit up and big shadows in part or just generally unsatisfactory results. Shining a bright light (got a halogen work light?) on it will make it much better.
#131
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 91Z28-350
It's not the size, it's the lack of focus.
It's not the size, it's the lack of focus.
For teh other Dig camera....I had to go last night and swap in the 1Gig memory stick for 2 128 MB ones! Freaking SONY. It can't use pro. And the non pro only go to 128! They always do this crap. Get a good camera and they go and change something, so it can't use the new products...like larger memory sticks! Jerks!
I was still editing...
Last edited by redraif; 06-09-2005 at 10:46 AM.
#133
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
How dare he…
(sorry)
I don’t think that anyone really wants a bigger picture, just one that is in focus. You could probably get it with your “cheapie” by focusing (press the shutter button part way) with the view finder centered on the part that you want in focus, then reframing it the way you want it and pressing the shutter button the rest of the way to take the picture. Also, anything that will cause some relative motion (ie, you holding the part) will result in some blur
How dare he…
(sorry)
I don’t think that anyone really wants a bigger picture, just one that is in focus. You could probably get it with your “cheapie” by focusing (press the shutter button part way) with the view finder centered on the part that you want in focus, then reframing it the way you want it and pressing the shutter button the rest of the way to take the picture. Also, anything that will cause some relative motion (ie, you holding the part) will result in some blur
the flash pics all came out bleached/washed out when close up....far away just like that. The flash is very short range. I used the bright halogen lights since they were the only way to not bleach the pics.
There is no part way on this shutter either...either takes or not!
I was sitting holding the part with my feet or leaning it against my foot or leg...ie... no movement.
Its just a crappy camera with bad resolution...this is the fine setting...guys at camera department said where as the Sony I needed the stick for was 4.1 mega pixels (think this is the correct term)...mine was 0.5... so only the super small would be clear and in focus!
With the new sticks the camera did not have a "memory stick error" They said formating the gig stick would not help as the camera could not read the pro sticks!
#134
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Most camera flashes aren't designed for relatively small, close ups and you’ll get either part of the image lit up and big shadows in part or just generally unsatisfactory results. Shining a bright light (got a halogen work light?) on it will make it much better.
Most camera flashes aren't designed for relatively small, close ups and you’ll get either part of the image lit up and big shadows in part or just generally unsatisfactory results. Shining a bright light (got a halogen work light?) on it will make it much better.
#135
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 91Z28-350
True for larger items, but it'll work better than no flash and this isn't a difficult subject to light. The referenced pictures aren't exactly macro mode pictures, they were taken from about 2 feet away. If the lamp isn't in the right spot, you'll get even worse shadows since the light isn't surrounding the subject. I'd rather have it straight on with a flashlight than having light come in from the side to cast a long shadow. With a flash, you won't have the wide open aperture and the long exposure, even if you get uneven illumination. Since the subject is small in size and height, a forced flash will work just fine. I can take a satisfactory picture for the purpose of highlighting the intended subject with a cheapo point and shoot 3MP digital camera and forced flash. I don't think anyone would care if there's some spot reflection off the powdercoating. But this is all a digression.
True for larger items, but it'll work better than no flash and this isn't a difficult subject to light. The referenced pictures aren't exactly macro mode pictures, they were taken from about 2 feet away. If the lamp isn't in the right spot, you'll get even worse shadows since the light isn't surrounding the subject. I'd rather have it straight on with a flashlight than having light come in from the side to cast a long shadow. With a flash, you won't have the wide open aperture and the long exposure, even if you get uneven illumination. Since the subject is small in size and height, a forced flash will work just fine. I can take a satisfactory picture for the purpose of highlighting the intended subject with a cheapo point and shoot 3MP digital camera and forced flash. I don't think anyone would care if there's some spot reflection off the powdercoating. But this is all a digression.
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Car: 85 Trans Am
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#137
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Originally posted by 91Z28-350
True for larger items, but it'll work better than no flash and this isn't a difficult subject to light.
…
I don't think anyone would care if there's some spot reflection off the powdercoating. But this is all a digression.
True for larger items, but it'll work better than no flash and this isn't a difficult subject to light.
…
I don't think anyone would care if there's some spot reflection off the powdercoating. But this is all a digression.
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redraif
I got my new ones in today and all I can say is that they are much better than the ones you or I had I should have some pics in a couple hours of the new, new vs old
I got my new ones in today and all I can say is that they are much better than the ones you or I had I should have some pics in a couple hours of the new, new vs old
#139
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Well been taking pics a cropping and resizing from the Sony dig cam. Should work on getting them up tomorrow for all to view! Much better pics... Had same problems as mine with close ups, but it had a manual focus setting that fixed that! Got nice close ups now!
Oh and talked to a club member who works for a Metalergist (sp) He took a good look at the arms and said he saw discoloration in the break point. This is a sure sign of metal fatigue. Fatigue brought on by inferior product, or metal that sized wrong for the application and is over stressed... Hmmm....
Lance Carter of Carter chassis...(maybe some of you have heard of him...very well known and well respected thru out the country) the day before looked at them and said he would never run that small of a tube on that car. The failure in his opinion was inevitable due to too small of a sized tube in a street application. Said these are no where near strong enough for the street. Got to talking with him about almost buying the K-member. He has heard horror stories about them and most others... he said he there was only one company he would consider and that was AJE... I never mentioned AJE to him at all. This was his unsolicited opinion!
Funny thing...he offered to build me some a-arms...asking price $1800... but they would NEVER break!
Oh and talked to a club member who works for a Metalergist (sp) He took a good look at the arms and said he saw discoloration in the break point. This is a sure sign of metal fatigue. Fatigue brought on by inferior product, or metal that sized wrong for the application and is over stressed... Hmmm....
Lance Carter of Carter chassis...(maybe some of you have heard of him...very well known and well respected thru out the country) the day before looked at them and said he would never run that small of a tube on that car. The failure in his opinion was inevitable due to too small of a sized tube in a street application. Said these are no where near strong enough for the street. Got to talking with him about almost buying the K-member. He has heard horror stories about them and most others... he said he there was only one company he would consider and that was AJE... I never mentioned AJE to him at all. This was his unsolicited opinion!
Funny thing...he offered to build me some a-arms...asking price $1800... but they would NEVER break!
#140
you guys are playing with your life using that aftermarket garbage. at least the OEM stuff is proven.
you really think 2 lbs and a little "stiffer" arm is making a difference in a daily driver. get real.
I've seen the result of a tubular arm failing at the race track.
Car hit the cement barrier, then bounced off to the other cement barrier.
you really think 2 lbs and a little "stiffer" arm is making a difference in a daily driver. get real.
I've seen the result of a tubular arm failing at the race track.
Car hit the cement barrier, then bounced off to the other cement barrier.
#141
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Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
look at any major racing division (nascar, kart, irl, ...), any of them running stamped suspension parts? not that i've ever seen! they work fine if they are built correctly. there shouldn't be any "playing with your life" involved.
#142
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Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Originally posted by AM91Camaro_RS
look at any major racing division (nascar, kart, irl, ...), any of them running stamped suspension parts? not that i've ever seen! they work fine if they are built correctly. there shouldn't be any "playing with your life" involved.
look at any major racing division (nascar, kart, irl, ...), any of them running stamped suspension parts? not that i've ever seen! they work fine if they are built correctly. there shouldn't be any "playing with your life" involved.
#143
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Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
running off into the corners at that kind of speed with slicks (tires that stay stuck to the ground) doesn't put stress on suspension pieces?
#145
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Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
well, yes...potholes are hard on suspension. but, knowing how redraif's car is build and all (being a show car) i bet she does everything possible to avoid potholes!
#146
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
any impact is going to be far worse for parts than 200 laps around a smooth race track. That and I promise you that each pecie of the suspensions on those cars is either replaced or inspected very often. They also likely do not powdercoat them, so they can easily see stress cracks starting, before the peice actualy fails.... BTW, on a typical sunday, what percantage of cars actualy finish races.... broken suspension peices happen in all forms of racing.
#147
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Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
I'm a big nascar fan and I can't think of many people that haven't finished a race lately because of suspension failure...unless a piece broke in a wreck or something but then that would be considered not finishing because of a wreck... you're right though, they do change those pieces a lot more often. i do agree that drag racing isn't that hard on front suspension pieces...other than the front wheels dropping after a wheelie.
#148
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Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
On the streets where I live smaller cars
are much better for a daily driver.
Ive driven the camaro since march and
I dont have the money to upgrade the car.
Im selling my camaro its nice looking car.
86 Z28 body is clean and its a hard top!
3000 or a trade
240sx, eclipse, celica.
The car runs very good 350 sbc goodwrench
holley 4bbl edlebrock manifold and headers
low miles and rebuilt 700r4 you could turn this into
a good track car but I dont have the money to do that
I have alot of parts that I took off in my basement like
that back seats a/c compressor smog stuff etc..
no headliner it was toast..
Few things I have done recently is a wheel alignment
after I got tires Falkens 245 50 16 96h excellent tires
New Ignition wires Csr hold down clamp.
new radiator..
iTs also has removeable steering wheel..
goodluck with your cars
I think this car would make a good circle track car.!!
are much better for a daily driver.
Ive driven the camaro since march and
I dont have the money to upgrade the car.
Im selling my camaro its nice looking car.
86 Z28 body is clean and its a hard top!
3000 or a trade
240sx, eclipse, celica.
The car runs very good 350 sbc goodwrench
holley 4bbl edlebrock manifold and headers
low miles and rebuilt 700r4 you could turn this into
a good track car but I dont have the money to do that
I have alot of parts that I took off in my basement like
that back seats a/c compressor smog stuff etc..
no headliner it was toast..
Few things I have done recently is a wheel alignment
after I got tires Falkens 245 50 16 96h excellent tires
New Ignition wires Csr hold down clamp.
new radiator..
iTs also has removeable steering wheel..
goodluck with your cars
I think this car would make a good circle track car.!!
#150
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Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
where I live the roads suck big time
I couldnt put tubular stuff on this car.
I couldnt put tubular stuff on this car.