Ok, so I'm by no means a suspension expert, but I do know some about geometry and friction.

I currently have a problem with abnormal tire wear on the front passenger side. The outside of the tire is worn bald, and the wear pattern shows a steady increase in tread depth from the outside in. Meaning the the tread is deeper on the inside of the tire. I was looking at it today and I noticed that the passenger side has a lot more camber put into it than the driver side does(top tilts out on pass. side, but less on the driver)

It doesn't seem that I have a strange scraping pattern so I don't think the problem is the amount of toe that I have on that side. Is my guess correct in that if I fix the camber issue then the wear will get better.

You know what, I'm open for ideas, but I'm just gonna take it to get aligned anyway. I just want to make sure that my "educated guess" is correct.

 

Outside of the tire worn bald is too much positive camber [top of tire pointing out] or too much toe-in [IIRC].

If the alignment comes out right but still has the problem, check for a bent spindle/a-arm.

 

Yeah, the car kind of drifts to the right(passenger side), but the outside of the tire is worn badly. I was thinking that the drift could be caused by too much toe-out, and the uneven wear could be camber.

I know that camber was off on at least one wheel because the bolts didn't line up in the adjustment slots at the same place, and the passenger side had more adjustment toward the positive camber side of things. So with the adjustment being toward positive camber and the outside of the tire being worn, I think I had a camber problem. I adusted it a little so that I have the same amount of slot showing on both side and the car doesn't seem to drift AS MUCH, it still does though.

The whell also seems to sit a little better on the ground now.

 

My first set of wide tires didi this soon after I put them on. Your front end needs a complete overhaul, ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, and drag link. New wheel bearings could be added if they havn't been replaced recently. Good luck!

 

If the car has a lot of miles and the factory linkage I'd replace them first too before getting an alignment. It's actually pretty easy and only needs about $40 worth a of specialty tools. Replace the idler arm, tierods, tierod sleeves, and center link and notice how much more responsive the steering is. Then get it aligned and be happy. It's a good day worth of work with handtools and no lift, but most shops will charge around 5 hours worth of labor and their price for their parts (think supercheap would be $600)

The pull to the right your talking about is consistent with too much positive camber (sticking out on top). Think of a bike in a turn, they lean in the direction they want to go. your tire leaning like that will do the same thing, all other angles being equal, the car will pull to the side with the most positive camber.

If the strut mounts are old replacing them will make a huge difference too, (that's easier with air tools, but if you have the right tools it only takes a couple of hours).

 

Wait, you live in sun valley CA.......
How far is that from the east bay. You can have an ASE certified suspension mechanic do the work with a Wyotech #1 in class suspension/alignment award do all the work for cheap. (shameless plug)