UK Speedbird

Ok guys so I’ve finally managed to get round to fitting the new Wilwood Dynalite Brake kit to my car. But as per the operation is not without it’s frustrations. I’m currently removing the spindle to make the modifications to the two holes and cut the excess metal for the new caliper mounts.
I’ve managed to remove the awful single piston calipers (which I may add I found to have been badly twisted down near the banjo fitting) that’s what might have helped to pull me all over the road!
The ball joint separator and my 1kg persuader made short work of the tie-rod end ball joint on the steering. (I must admit that moog front-end rebuild kit is looking pretty attractive for the future!)

The only problem I’m having now is removing the castellated nut from the lower control arm. I suspect that the damn thing has threaded, because it’s just going round and round without coming off. I’m suspecting someone’s been messing round down there before and done something. If you all don’t have any Ideas I’m thinking that I’m going to have to chisel it off with the nut splitter. Seeing how I don’t know which if not both of the two threads (nut or ball joint) are damaged, I might as well replace both ball joints at the same time.

If I do go for the ball joint replacement it says in the Haynes manual that I’ll need special tool J-2429A and other J-tools! Is this true and where can I get them from over there in the states? I’ve looked everywhere over here and can’t find anything like them. Is there a way round using them without damaging anything? I’ve looked in the recent Summit racing catalogue and they have a ball joint separator on page 231 that looks like the tool I might need, has anyone else used one on their 3gen?

All the best speed.

TPI Monte SS

I had to do the same thing for a G-body spindle. I took my 4" angle grinder and sliced the castellated nut lengthways in a few places and took a chunk off. Then I was able to put my 1/2" drive ratchet to it and unscrew it the rest of the way.

Once you have the new balljoints in hand, you should be able to bring them to a machine shop and they can press the old ones out and install the new ones. I also recommend (since the arms will be out anyway) to replace the bushings where the arms are bolted into the frame.

Good luck!

UK Speedbird

Thanks for that info Monte, but my arms are still on the car (Sorry I should have said that before) and I don’t want to take them off if I don’t have to. I’ve tried to get that nut off again this morning to no avail so I’m just going to get the nut splitter on it at least I’ll be able to get the spindles off and to a machine shop to do the mods.

Speed.

nape

iTrader: (1)

If you have to take the spindles off to get them modded, might as well take the A-arms off as well and have the machine shop press in the ball joint and probably some new a-arm bushings as well.

iansane

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried jacking up under the a-arm?

I recently had that castle nut fall off while I was driving. I had to do the fix on the side of the road and the ball joint just spun and spun. I put a jack under the control arm and lifted up and it would start to thread. Try that or try having comletely no jack under the a-arm.

UK Speedbird

yeah I've tried that insane I've even tried pushing up on the spindle its self to try and get the nut to "catch" a thread if you get me but no luck....damn things going to get split!
Has anyone tried that ball joint tool from summit on page 231?

iansane

iTrader: (1)

If you're talking about the one that I'm looking at I think that's meant specifically to press out the ball joint, not get the nut off. Although you could press it out and just replace the whole unit....

UK Speedbird

Yeah thats what I'm going to have to do, I'm assuming that the threads on both the nut and the ball joint are damaged so I'm going to have to replace both the nut and the ball joint, I'm pretty sure thats the tool I'm gonna need.

Speed.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I think that insane is suggesting that you’ve unseated the bj taper out of it’s seat and now there is nothing to keep it from spinning. If that’s the case you can sometimes put a jack under it pressing the taper back in creating enough friction to hold the bj and prevent it from turning so you can unthread it. Try watching the stud as you turn the nut with a wrench, if it turns with the nut then that is your problem.

iansane

iTrader: (1)

Well way to come in here and use the english language along with better descriptive skills to get my point across.

UK Speedbird

Ah right I get ya now!! Yeah so far I’ve only used a socket on the nut so I can’t see if the actual ball joint thread is rotating too. I’ll be out there this afternoon, so I’ll get a spanner on it and check it out Cheers!

Andy Fanshawe

iTrader: (1)

Hi UK speedbird!
Good to see you are still cruisin'. Not spoken to you for ages!

If you have any serious grief and/or get fed up, give me a call. I'm only just round the corner. I've done loads of these.

Andy.

slowTA

iTrader: (1)

Odds are pretty good that the shaft of the ball joint is turning with the nut. I would use a large C clamp to press the ball joint and spindle back together. This should up the friction between the two of them. Then I would TIGHTEN the nut to really force them together. At this point you should be able to wire brush the dirty threads and thread the nut off. Then you'll be safe to pop the spindle and ball joint apart assuming the spring is captive and you have a jack under the control arm.

Andy Fanshawe

iTrader: (1)

slowTA is spot on there.
Golden rule: Always remove the nut and make sure it is free to spin up and down before breaking any tapered joints

Andy.

UK Speedbird

Hi Guys, Hey Andy!

Long time no see eh! Yep thanks guys for the help I got back under the car this afternoon and found that y’all are right the whole nut/ball joint was rotating together. Got a big C clamp on it and just gently eased it off. Found that the threads are fine on both and now have one spindle ready for the machine shop. Hopefully the other side isn’t going to be as much of a problem for me as this was. I think before the project is done I’ll be back asking for more help along the way (and I thought that replacing the fuel tank etc was bad!)

Hey Andy how’s that Camaro doing, You get that engine running yet? Got to be about a year since I last saw you. Been doing all sorts to the Firebird, I think I got the Fanshaw flu! You know where you replace something and you think ah seeing how I’m here I’ll just do that at the same time!
Anyway, the old girls still going well and done plenty of miles this year. (342 are plenty for me by July!)
I’m planning the fitting of these brakes are going to take a few weeks with work and all, as well as painting that I’m doing while I’m under the front. I’ll have to give you a call and come down to see you with the car when I get chance.

Again, thanks for the help everyone it’s much appreciated. Speed.

Andy Fanshawe

iTrader: (1)

Hi UK speedbird.
Good job on the ball joint then! Love it when a plan comes together

The black and red Camaro is all finished and is going to it's new owner on the 20th August. Meanwhile the red show Camaro is rolling, running and stopping! Air suspension is plumbed in, and I am now priming both wings off the car ready for it's repaint (scratched it you see, after 6 years of walking round it!). Rear quarters and roof next and we are cruisin'.
Hope to see you around. Be good to talk to you again. My 7 year old still remembers your car affectionately!

Andy.