Help!
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From: Denver
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5
Help!
I cant get the stupid a-arm back on with the new spring. I did it just like the book said but the friggin a-arm bolts holes won't line up to the frame by about 1 inch!!!!!!!! The only thing I haven't removed is the sway bar. Would that make a difference? The sway bar mount bolt is so flimsy I"m afraid I'll break it trying to the the rusted nut off. I got the front A-arm bolt in, but the back bolt hole is off by about an inch. I"m going to kill this car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by 86LG4T56; Aug 27, 2005 at 04:06 PM.
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Car: American Iron Firebird
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Transmission: Richmond T-10
Axle/Gears: Floater 9" - 3.64 gears
Are you putting the A-arm back on the correct side?
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Car: 1986 Firebird
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Yes. Since the A-arm is still attached to the sway bar, it seems kind of impossible for it to end up on the other side of the car.
Last edited by 86LG4T56; Aug 27, 2005 at 04:09 PM.
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Car: American Iron Firebird
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Transmission: Richmond T-10
Axle/Gears: Floater 9" - 3.64 gears
Sorry, missed that part of it. I've seen someone try to do it before though, so I had to ask.
Are you trying to install the spring at the same time or the arm won't fit without anything else going in at the same time?
Are you trying to install the spring at the same time or the arm won't fit without anything else going in at the same time?
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From: Denver
Car: 1986 Firebird
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I'm trying to reattach the a-arm with the new spring installed. Without the spring, I don't think it would be a problem because I could just push the a-arm into alignment. But when that spring is compressed at 500 lbs per square inch or wahtever, I can't adjust the alignment at all. It's too tight.
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Transmission: Richmond T-10
Axle/Gears: Floater 9" - 3.64 gears
Another way to do it is to bolt the A-arm up but leave the bolts loose, then put the spring into the upper pocket and start raising the A-arm up to start putting the spring under pressure. Don't forget to align it between the two holes in the a-arm. You can use a length of chain as a safety to hold the spring to the a-arm just in case something goes wrong, just make sure you don't make it too tight and that you will be able to get it out once the spring compresses a bit.
so you have the a-arm holding on with one bolt but spring is sitting compressed in the pocket? goddamn, you're brave.
1) remove the spring (use spring compressors)
2) bolt in the a-arm as it should be, leave the bolts a little loose so it moves freely
3) take the compressed spring and shove it in the top pocket and make sure it's aligned properly in the a-arm
4) use a jack to compress it all back up
5) reattach spindle
1) remove the spring (use spring compressors)
2) bolt in the a-arm as it should be, leave the bolts a little loose so it moves freely
3) take the compressed spring and shove it in the top pocket and make sure it's aligned properly in the a-arm
4) use a jack to compress it all back up
5) reattach spindle
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1” which way?
I’d disconnect the sway bar end link because it can’t be doing anything besides getting in the way. They’re cheap to replace anyway if you break it and you were probably due for new ones if you do anyway.
If you can’t jack it up high enough to get the spring to fully compress jack the opposite back corner of the car first and try again, it will shift more weight to the front. If it’s an in and out thing you’re just not trying hard enough. I usually just put a shop jack under the spring pocket and jack, using a flat pry bar to align the front pivot. Once I get it aligned I slide the bolt in. After that you can usually get the rear one to align by jacking or releasing the jack a little.
I’d disconnect the sway bar end link because it can’t be doing anything besides getting in the way. They’re cheap to replace anyway if you break it and you were probably due for new ones if you do anyway.
If you can’t jack it up high enough to get the spring to fully compress jack the opposite back corner of the car first and try again, it will shift more weight to the front. If it’s an in and out thing you’re just not trying hard enough. I usually just put a shop jack under the spring pocket and jack, using a flat pry bar to align the front pivot. Once I get it aligned I slide the bolt in. After that you can usually get the rear one to align by jacking or releasing the jack a little.
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From: Denver
Car: 1986 Firebird
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Well its' done. Thanks everybody for your help. I kind of used a little of all your advice. Used the spring compressor to bind the spring to the a-arm. Then I wasn't afraid of the spring anymore and just hammered and pry-barred the sh*t out of the a-arm until it aligned.
**Tip to anybody else doing this -- The rubber isolators that go on top of the springs are a b*tch about falling to one side. Use zip ties to keep them in place.
The 5665 springs are definately taller, but it's really not so bad. Kind of makes the car look bigger on the outside. And whoever thought new stiffer suspension would make bumps less jarring? Wierd but true. Thanks again!
**Tip to anybody else doing this -- The rubber isolators that go on top of the springs are a b*tch about falling to one side. Use zip ties to keep them in place.
The 5665 springs are definately taller, but it's really not so bad. Kind of makes the car look bigger on the outside. And whoever thought new stiffer suspension would make bumps less jarring? Wierd but true. Thanks again!
Last edited by 86LG4T56; Aug 29, 2005 at 10:19 AM.





